You will note our travel blog presents our numerous international trips, with none from Canada, and only Milford House from our province of Nova Scotia. Our travels over the past 10+ years have predominantly been international but with Covid-19 limiting those opportunities we have taken a number of short trips within Nova Scotia the past couple of years. Below is a record of those trips, along with a section at the end of the numerous take-out meals we enjoyed during the severe lockdowns during the early days of Covid-19.
Note that chronologically the entries are from most recent to oldest. We suggest your read the blog in this order, i.e. from top to bottom, given some of the commentary at the beginning of sections. Enjoy
After quick stops in Mahone Bay and Blockhouse to buy some our favourite mushroom pate and a loaf of bread we continued on to our next stop being Summerville Beach where we had lunch at the Quarterdeck, on their outdoor deck mere feet away from the ocean. Fish and chips for me and a vegetarian burger for Gayle overlooking the ocean and beach.
We arrived in Shelburne late afternoon to check in to Cooper's Inn. Built in c1785 in the aftermath of the American Revolution as pro-British refugees flooded into Shelburne, the original structure, made of vertical logs served as both a store and the home of a blind man - George Gracie. Gracie was a refugee merchant from Boston who became one of two representatives of Shelburne County in the Nova Scotia House of Assembly.
During the 1987/1988 restoration it was determined the Inn was built in two stages - the north side was built first and is where the owners' accommodation is located (the logs are sill in place in the walls), followed by the south side. It is believed the vertical log walls were sailed up from Boston in Gracie's ship the 'Experiment' and reassembled on site. The south side was added over a period of serval years up to 1805. The smaller building at the rear of the main house was used as a cooperage from about 1904 until 1917 when J Chandley Smith built a new Barrel Factory across the street. Barrels are still made there today. This building is estimated to be 150 or more years old with the Shelburne Barrel Factory being a vibrant business to this day.
We were warmly greeted by Amanda who bought and took over the inn only three weeks previously. A wonderful story that this young (early thirties) women took a leap, moved from Ontario to Shelburne, purchased the Inn and is starting a new life. Very brave of her. Amanda is very personable, spending considerable time chatting with guests, often accompanied by her dog Chilo. Although ending just prior to our arrival one very nice thing Amanda does is host an hour of guest mingling, with wine and/or other beverages. It is something we experienced in the south of the US (Georgia, South Carolina) and a great opportunity to meet other guests and share experiences. The next day we met a couple from Calgary with whom we had a nice chat.
Having had a significant lunch we had no need for dinner. We enjoyed our bread and mushroom pate before wandering outside to a bench on the waterfront from where we watched the sun set and the resulting vibrant colours.
We stayed in the Gracie Room, named after the Inn's original owner. The elegant and spacious second floor room features a king size four poster bed. There is an en-suite four piece bath - the tub was very nice. Two comfy wing chairs and a huge Boston Fern made the the room attractive and comfortable. The north faces the head of the harbour while to the west is the oldest operating cooperage in North America.
The Gracie room, Cooper's Inn. North looking view from the room to the harbour.
Upon arriving, on our bed was a teddy bear with a card that read
"Hello... My name is Cooper. If you love me as much as I'll love you then let's go home together and you can introduce me to my new family. Gotta Love a CUDLY COOPER! You should know that I sleep through the night, I'm cuddly, I don't cry, I promise to be good, I don't eat a lot .... did I mention I'm Cuddly? You won't be lonely when we're together. You may want to know more about my name. A 'cooper' is a person that builds or repairs casks or barrels like the folks across from the Inn. It takes years to develop the skills required to build a quality barrel. Though our neighbours didn't build me, I'm pretty well stitched as you can see. Bet You weren't Expecting Me! There are no strings attached. Please take me home with you, I'm free!!!"
Cooper (or Shelburne as Gayle calls him) was taken home, as requested, and quickly became friends with Toledo.
July 10, 2022 - Cooper's Inn, Shelburne
In addition to being served breakfast a huge benefit of B&Bs such as The Cooper's Inn, as opposed to hotels or Air B&Bs, is the opportunity to meet other travelers. Over a wonderful breakfast we chatted with a mom and daughter from Sudbury, Ontario who were based at the Cooper's Inn here in Shelburne while visiting Nova Scotia for a week. Being a small town we crossed paths with them a few more times over the day.
As it was another beautiful, sunny day we went for a walk along the harbour front, admiring the many beautiful and historic buildings. With my knees continuing to be a bit of a problem I had a walking stick with me which Gayle had some fun with, doing a song and dance routine in one of the parks. Although we didn't go into any of the museums we did stop at the Fishermen's Memorial and the Sunday market. We smelled the roses (photo below) and sat on the many benches to gaze out across the harbour and simply enjoy the views of the ocean.
We spent a considerable time in the beautiful Cooper's Inn garden where we had a nice long chat with Amanda, the very recent - three weeks - new owner of the Inn. What is so amazing is that Amanda, from Ontario and only in her early thirties, is living her dream of investing in and owning an inn here in Nova Scotia. A very confident young women it is wonderful to see someone of a younger generation take such a huge leap to move and invest as she has done. Amanda spent a considerable amount of time chatting with us, another benefit of B&Bs. We have said before but will say again it is thanks to those like Amanda who invest in and manage boutique hotels like the Cooper's Inn that travelers such as us get to experience interesting and often historical places to stay. Our only regret is that we did not get a photo of Amanda's dog Chilo.
We had a bottle of Prosecco that we enjoyed sitting on a park bench on the edge of the harbour before going to dinner . What a great setting to relax prior to a short walk to Charlotte Lane Cafe for dinner. Overall dinner was decent but there were too many menu changes to make it great. The option of a flight of Tidal Bay wines (Grand Pre, Jost and Luckett) was nice. We each ordered a flight. From an aroma perspective I liked the Jost while Gayle chose the Grand Pre. With respect to body / taste and finish we both preferred the Grand Pre.
We them shared what was supposed to be an heirloom tomato salad with basil. On the one hand the champagne dressing was very nice and the salad tasty but the tomatoes were cherry, not heirloom as advertised. Gayle had been looking forward to the mushroom and roquefort ravioli but sadly there were no mushrooms. Rather the chef substituted cauliflower and we're still looking for the roquefort - we could not taste any. We were advised in advance and Gayle did decide to order the ravioli just the same, and while good it was not mushroom. I had the scallops - very succulent but the potatoes were roasted, not crispy smashed as advertised and the scallops were to be served with lobster sauce, but that too was replaced - with lemon-butter cream. There were just too many substitutes. Dessert on the other hand, a three layered chocolate mousse cake was excellent.
We returned to our new favourite park bench where we enjoyed a last glass of Prosecco, and watched a school of fish jumping in the harbour. Sunset was again very colourful.
A selection of colourful flowers ...
In barrel buckets outside Charlotte Lane Cafe. Roses in the nice grassy areas next to the harbour.
July 11, 2022 - Cooper's Inn, Shelburne to Dartmouth
Sadly we awoke to a flat tire. A bit strange as we had not driven the car yesterday but after having CAA change the tire we did see a small screw that no doubt caused a slow leak. All in all two hours to wait for CAA, have the tire changed, find a garage and have the tire fixed, but we were then back on the road.
About 45 minutes from Shelburne we took a road to the coast to Thomas Raddall Provincial Park and East Side Port L'Hebert. Being a hot day and without water we decided not to walk to the beach but this certainly appeared to be a great place to camp and hike. We took a couple of small dirt roads that did not end at the ocean but rather somewhere in the forest - a bit of a waste. East Port L'Hebert itself is nothing really - no stores, nothing other than a wharf, a few lobster trawlers, lots of lobster traps and a nice beach. Along the way back we stopped by Path Lake where we finished our loaf of bread and mushroom pate, seeing a couple of beautiful herons fly by. A very peaceful, restful spot.
From there it was a drive home, bringing to an end a very enjoyable weekend getaway.
Salty Rose - October 05 - 07, 2021
We so much enjoyed our brief stay the previous year at Salty Rose, we returned again for three nights this year. Salty Rose is comprised of six cottages on the ocean about 13 km past Lunenburg near the village of Rose Bay. When we first inquired in August they were booked solid but fortunately there was a cancellation that allowed us to stay early October.
The weather during our stay was perfect - sunny each day with temperatures reaching the low 20s. A wonderful stretch for early October.
For dinner we did take-out from the nearby Bayport Pub.
After three wonderful days we packed up and sadly left Salty Rose, with the intention to certainly return again.
Milford House - July 25 - 27, 2021
As we have done for no doubt over a dozen years we spent three nights at Milford House during the summer, in our favourite cottage - Little.
Having been here many times and with its own tab of the travel blog dedicated to Milford House here are only a few photos from this year's stay.
Oceanstone Seaside Resort - February 9 - 10, 2021
During October 2020 we took three day trips throughout Nova Scotia, one of which was to Peggy's Cove. On the way we passed Oceanstone Seaside Resort, a place we had heard very good things about. We decided to stop to eat at the Resort's Rhubarb Restaurant where we enjoyed a very nice lunch.
This is Gayle's 65th birthday. The plan was to stay at an isolated lodge - only way in is by boat - in the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica - the Golfo Dulce Retreat. However Covid 19 put an end to those plans leaving this as the next best thing. Unfortunately Covid 19 also limited service at Oceanstone in that the restaurant was closed, although there was the option to order delivery to your room. As well breakfast was somewhat limited and only take-out.
Katrina did a wonderful thing by driving out to Oceanstone before we arrived to put up some balloons in our cottage and drop off a huge birthday cookie and other treats. Very thoughtful and appreciated.
Salty Rose - September 15 - 16, 2020
Milford House - September 17 - 18, 2020
The Beach House - September 19 - 20, 2020
We decided to go on a bit of a getaway mid-September. While we enjoyed our annual trip to Milford House in July, without international travel due to Covid we were anxious to get away again. Originally we planned two nights at Salty Rose - cabins near Rose Bay we had driven by a number of times and highly recommended by our friends Linda and Bill, and then another two nights at the School House in nearby Kingsburg, perhaps our favourite place in Nova Scotia.
After booking we were contacted by the owner of the School House to let us know their daughter was visiting from California and would be quarantining in the School House. They offered their other property, the (larger) Beach House (at the same price) but not until two nights later. We contemplated various options (only going to Salty Rose, although we could not extend our stay; returning home for the two in-between days and then returning to the Beach House; or spending the two days at Milford House, albeit our regular cottage, Little, was (not available). Ultimately we decided to return to Milford House for the two in-between nights.
The Beach House, Kingsburg - September 19 - 20, 2020
Our final stop was The Beach House in Kingsburg. We love Kingsburg, taking a day trip there once a year. The view cresting the hill over the pond to the beach and ocean is simply special, something we look forward to each and every time.
John Duckworth and his partner Anne Fouillard are prominent real estate agents in the area of Kingsburg, Lunenburg and surrounding areas. They own two buildings in Kingsburg that they rent out, a +/- 160 year old school house that has been restored and turned into a cozy year round home and the Beach House.
The Swiss-German village is comprised of + / - 200 year old classic Cape Cod style homes, including the recently built, but in the traditional style Beach House, which fronts on a small, quaint, centuries-old settlers cemetery.
It is only 300 feet through the beach grass to the often barren, beautiful, half-mile long Kingsburg Beach, fronting King Bay.
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The Beach House
Role reversal - a fishing shack in the water and a small boat on land.
Milford House - September 17 - 18, 2020
Our second stop, rather than cutting our trip short or returning home for two nights was a stay at Milford House. Our 'go to' cottage - Little - was not available resulting in us choosing an alternative - Kingfisher. Each cottage at Milford House is unique. Kingfisher is a a bit less isolated but still very private. It has a much larger living space than Little, although a smaller deck, albeit a portion is screened in. All in all it was a nice cottage. As well, being on the west side of the promontory Kingfisher has the benefit of the sunsets.
Only two cottages (and not Little or Kingfisher) are 'winterized'. As the temperatures begin to dip in September it does, and did get very chilly during the night. Each cottage has a large fireplace along with a supply of dried hardwood, a necessity to keep at least somewhat warm.
It is custom for us to have spaghetti when at Milford House, a reminder of our camping days. We did so the first evening this trip, while on the second night we ate at the Lodge where we enjoy their homestyle cooking.
In retrospect it was a good decision to fill in the two days at Milford House.
Salty Rose - September 15 - 16, 2020
Next (actually our first stop) was Salty Rose, six cottages on the ocean about 13 km past Lunenburg near the village of Rose Bay. We had admired the property, and its cottages, during our annual trips to nearby Kingsburg. Our friends Bill and Linda had stayed here, and recommended the cottages highly.
One of the downsides is the limited places to eat nearby (Bayport Pub and Rose Bay General Store being the only options without driving back to Lunenburg) but the cottages have a virtually complete kitchen - the only thing missing is a proper oven, there being a toaster oven to heat things up. The cottages are modern, with a wood stove, lovely screened-in porch and wrap around deck with Adirondack chairs and spectacular views across the grassy area and pond to the ocean beyond.
The weather cooperated nicely, being sunny and warm during both days of our stay.
Our 3rd day trip, on November 10, 2020, was a drive to the Eastern Shore, out past East Jeddore to Clam Harbour Provincial Park, and then on to Owl's Head. Clam Harbour was more or less isolated as we walked the beach, giving Toledo an opportunity to stretch his legs. It was brisk but with little wind and the sun shining actually quite nice. Most of the area is primarily spruce and the hardwood had lost most of its leaves but like our previous day trips it was very enjoyable to see part of Nova Scotia.___________________________________
Map of the Eastern Shore on the 107 past Porters Lake then connecting to Hwy 7 through Musquodobit Harbour to Lake Charlotte where we took the road to Clam Harbour Beach Provincial Park, Owl's Head, Debaie's Cove, Ship Harbour and then back to Lake Charlotte to complete the loop.
We had the beach virtually to ourselves. Gentle ocean waves.
Our second drive, on October 22, 2020, was to Peggy's Cove during which we stopped for lunch at Rhubarb, the restaurant at Oceanstone Resort.
Peggy's Cove is THE Nova Scotia tourist spot. We don't visit often but each time really do appreciate the beauty of the village.
It was another beautiful day so we hopped in the car and enjoyed a wonderful drive. We did the trip counter-clockwise through Tantallon, along Highway 333 through Glen Haven, Glen Margaret and Hackett's Cove to Indian Harbour where we stopped for lunch at Rhubarb (photos of lunch presented in the Oceanstone section). Then it was on to Peggy's Cove for a walk on the granite rocks and to Bayside, Prospect Bay and back to Halifax.
We soon arrived at Oceanstone Resort and the accompanying Rhubarb restaurant where we stopped for lunch, including a delicious bowl of tomato soup.
First up is our fall foliage trip on October 18, 2020. The drive took us to Enfield, then through Nine Mile River, across through Upper Rawdon to Newport with a short side trip to Avondale Sky Winery. We then returned through Ellershouse, and back to Dartmouth.
On our drive to Nine Mile River we started to see the colourful foliage along with this somewhat strange collection of blue bottles.
From Wolfville we drove the 7 km to Gaspereau Vineyards, not surprisingly located in the Gaspereau Valley.
Gaspereau Vineyards is a boutique winery nestled amongst 50 acres of rolling countryside, on the former site of a dairy farm and apple orchard. The boutique winery has operated in the replica of a historic barn since 2004, providing wine tasting, vineyard tours, charcuterie pairings and shopping opportunities.
The wine tour took all afternoon - nearly five hours. Neil was a wealth of knowledge. It was wonderful to have a personal guide, and of course not have the issue of driving. The total cost was $243, comprised of $138 for Neil along with a bit over $100 for the cost of the wines purchased at the five wineries for tasting. A wonderful afternoon.__________________________________________________________________________________________________
We returned to Stella Rose where we relaxed for a couple of hours before walking into town for dinner at a Turkish restaurant - Troy - we had heard good things about.
Modified 'travel' during Covid-19
Like everyone with travel plans Covid-19 had a significant impact on us. While we were fortunate to have enjoyed our February trip to Costa Rica, having returned just before Covid-19 shut the world down our spring trip to southern Italy and our August / September 40th anniversary trip to France and Greece were both cancelled.
Fortunately Nova Scotia, perhaps due to being relatively isolated or perhaps due to good management, after the initial first wave, was relatively Covid-19 free throughout the summer and fall. Nova Scotians were encouraged to travel within the province, which we did through a number of overnight stays and day trip.
During April, May and into June we tried to travel 'virtually' while at the same time supporting local ethnic restaurants by ordering take-out. Over the years during our trip we have accumulated a considerable collection of pottery from various countries. We made an 'event' of ordering take-out from a number of local restaurants (some multiple times), and then plating the food on plates and in bowls of primarily the respective country. Our meals supported
- USTA Turkish and Mediterranean (Turkish)
- Talay Thai (Thai)
- The Blue Olive (Greek)
- Chef Abod (Middle Eastern)
- Ratinaud (French)
- Dhaba Express (Indian)
- The Vines (Italian)
- Il Mercato (Italian)
- The Italian Market (Italian)
- Salvatore's (Italian pizza)
Following are listing of what we ordered and a few photos of each meal. Not that it matters a lot but if you want to read in chronological order begin at the bottom.
Usta Turkish and Mediterranean - November 28, 2020
After a summer and fall of a return to near normality the third wave of Covid-19 became a reality in November when restrictions were again upon us, including the closure of in-restaurant dining, i.e. a return to take-out only. To that end we returned to our favourite restaurant - Usta here in Dartmouth. Another excellent meal.
Wine served in our copper wine bucket purchased in Montepulciano and Zuccotto for dessert.
Caprese salad with fresh mozzarella. Tiramisu.
Usta Turkish and Mediterranean - April 25, 2020
This week we again brought out our colourful Turkish and Moroccan plates and bowls as we returned to Usta Turkish and Mediterranean for our takeout. We added our bread basket from Morocco and a candle light bought in Rhodes, Greece, albeit from Turkey.
Dinner consisted of
- lentil soup
- Mutabbel (again) - pureed roasted eggplant
- Turkish salad
- a mixed Meze plate - a selection of hot and cold mezes
- pita bread
- Shish Kebab - tender cubes of marinated lamb
- vegetarian Moussaka, and
- for dessert - baklava
Ratinaud - April 19, 2020
This week's effort to support a local business had us put together a charcuterie board with meat and cheese primarily from Ratinaud, a boutique cheese and meat shop prepared in traditional French cuisine style.
The meats were Grison (cured beef with spices); Coppa (pork shoulder cured with juniper berries), a hazelnut saucisson and Ratinaud's pate (pork based with liver, blue cheese, pistachio and port wine.)
The cheeses were
- a French Auvergne, a Roquefort like cheese as they were out of Roquefort,
- Manchego, a Spanish sheep cheese,
- Petit Basque, another sheep cheese from the Pyrenees, and
- we added some Brie and Boursin.
As well I had some smoked salmon with capers along with olives, grilled peppers, an eggplant dip, artichoke hearts, roasted cherry tomatoes and some Swiss dark chocolate with almonds.
The meal was accompanied by a superb bottle of Baglio di Pianetto Cembali - a bottle we brought home after
we enjoyed the same at a winery where we stayed in Sicily.
For dessert we enjoyed a couple of pieces of honey soaked baklava from the European Pantry on Chebucto Road, Halifax, now Finsbury Market., served on a small plate from the island of Skiathos, Greece.
Chef Abod - April 11, 2020
This week we ordered from Chef Abod on Kempt Road in Halifax, serving Middle Eastern food.
We brought out our brown themed pottery - plates from Greece and Corsica, bowls from Greece and France, small condiment bowls from Turkey and a water pitcher from Spain.
I started with the Hummus with Minced Lamb and then we had the Sambusa, crispy pastries stuffed with either beef (for me) or cheese (for Gayle). Then the Fatoush Mediterranean salad of tomatoes, parsley, radishes, onions and cucumbers on romaine lettuce, seasoned with three herbs, a homemade pomegranate dressing and topped with toasted pita chips.
Gayle then had the Mixed Veggie Plate comprised of Baba Ghanoush, hummus, two falafel patties, and a Bourak, served with warm pita bread while I the Lamb Kofta Kebab - two skewers of grilled minced lamb marinated with onion, peppers, and mixed spices.
The servings were quite substantial leaving significant leftovers for tomorrow. The only regret was that Gayle forgot to order the lentil soup. Next time.
Blue Olive Greek Taverna - April 05, 2020
Greek tonight. We ordered from the Blue Olive Greek Taverna on Quinpool Road in Halifax. With a trip booked to Greece in September we have our fingers crossed although as each day passes the chances get less and less.
In the meantime we enjoyed a Greek meal of moussaka (meat for me; vegetarian for Gayle), a piece of Spanokapita, a Loukaniko sausage; Tzatziki and Kopanisti dips with pita bread, roasted potatoes and rice, and a piece of baklava for dessert.
Accompanied by some Greek retsina wine. We'll add a Greek salad to the leftovers tomorrow.
Talay Thai - March 29, 2020
We love Thai food, having been to Thailand in 2013. There are a number of very good Thai restaurants in Halifax but our go to is Talay Thai.
We brought out our Thai table runner - a birthday gift to Gayle from the owner of the place we were staying in Chiang Saen in northern Thailand, our Thai chop sticks and a couple of Thai dolls.
The meal was comprised of
- a mango salad,
- fresh spring rolls,
- chicken skewers, and
- two red currys - one chicken and the other tofu.
Our Thai table cloth, dolls, tissue cover, and best of all food for tonight.
In many ways eating at home was as nice as in a restaurant - very enjoyable.
Usta Turkish & Mediterranean - March 21, 2020
While there are many ethnic restaurants we enjoy, our favourite is Usta in nearby Cole Harbour.
We visited very shortly after it opened in late 2016 and have been back a number of times since, getting to know the owner Sherif, having chatted with him about our trips to Turkey.
We have a considerable collection of Turkish dishes and plates, along with a number of similar from Morocco and Greece, all of which made for an attractive display of our meal, a meal that began with Muttabel (roasted eggplant), Kiymali (warm hummus with spicy minced lamb), a veggie platter and the mixed kebab. The main dishes which are accompanied by a salad and pita bread are served with both rice and a few grilled vegetables.
During these difficult times we felt very good about supporting a local business that is no doubt struggling, and in the process enjoy some great food.