Ireland Golf 2016 - May 15 - 26, 2016
Our 5th golf trip to Ireland. It all started in 1993 when my long (real long) time friend Roger with whom I golfed as a teenager, along with Rob suggested we go to Ireland for a golf trip the following year as we were turning 40. We did, and now this is the fifth trip. I have been on all five trips (after all I organize them), while Mike has been on four (1994, 2004, 2009 and 2016), as has Byron (2004, 2009, 2012 and 2016); Rob has joined for the past two (2012 and 2016), while Guy also has been on two (2009 and 2016). The one newcomer on this trip was a friend of Guy's - Leonard. When first planned we agreed we were going to restrict ourselves to 'links' golf. There are other great golf courses in Ireland, e.g. the K Club, but if not links then not on our itinerary.
Some have questioned why we don't go to Scotland. As great as the golf no doubt is in Scotland it is hard to imagine it being much better than in Ireland. And there is something nice about replaying a links a second (or third) time after seven or 22 years.
Previous trips have taken us to Northern Ireland, and gems such as
- Royal County Down (currently ranked #1 in the World by Golf Digest),
- Royal Portrush (site of the 2019 Open),
- Portstewart (site of the 2017 Irish Open),
- Castlerock, and
- Ardglass.
We have extensively toured the north of Ireland, Donegal and Connemara where we played
- Ballyliffin,
- Portsalon,
- Rosapenna (both Sandy Hills and Old Tom Morris),
- Donegal,
- County Sligo / Rosses Point,
- Enniscrone, and
- Carne/Belmullet
As well we have played a number of links around Dublin, specifically
- Portmarnock (Championship Course),
- Royal Dublin, and
- The European Club
There is a wonderful book The Legendary Golf Links of Ireland that covers 16 of the top links in Ireland. Mike and I have played them all and Byron all by Potrmarnock. Rob, on only two trips has played 11 of these legendary links.
This trip took us first to the west coast to play
- Lahinch (ranked #4 in Ireland by Golf Digest),
- the Old Course at Ballybunion (ranked #5),
- Ballybunion Cashen (#56 although we would have it much higher),
- Tralee (#7),
- Waterville (#5),
- then south to Old Head (#14),
- and back just north of Dublin where we played The Island (#13),
- Seapoint (#46),
- and finally County Louth/Baltray (#10).
Challenging links each and every one.
Our best 'team' photo in front of the larger than life (at least we assume so) statue of Tralee Golf Links designer Arnold Palmer. As is the motto of the links 'Created by God. Designed by Arnold Palmer.'
Following is the cost, length, par and average score of each links on the itinerary. It is really quite amazing how consistent the average scores were, and somewhat surprising the results at County Louth on a difficult windy day.
We generally did not let cost stand in our way, being prepared to play the best links pretty much regardless of cost. The result was a total cost per person was 1,290 euros or $1,974 Canadian, i.e. nearly $200 per round. The one exception was Old Head where we balked at the 240 euro visitor green fee. However when subsequently provided an opportunity to play as 'unaccompanied guests' for 135 euros we took advantage and very glad we did
Links |
Cost (euros) |
Yards* |
Par |
Scores | ||
Low |
High |
Average | ||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lahinch |
170 |
6,339 |
72 |
85 |
125 |
104.7 |
Old Course* |
185 |
6,240 |
71 |
97 |
116 |
105.3 |
Cashen |
50 |
6,290 |
72 |
94 |
116 |
105.8 |
Tralee |
185 |
6,177 |
72 |
97 |
122 |
106.3 |
Tralee |
110 |
6,177 |
72 |
97 |
117 |
106.8 |
Waterville |
170 |
6,330 |
72 |
91 |
120 |
102.3 |
Old Head |
135** |
6,115 |
72 |
97 |
119 |
105.1 |
Island* |
125 |
6,374 |
71 |
90 |
118 |
102.3 |
Seapoint |
35 |
6,718 |
72 |
92 |
119 |
103.7 |
County Louth |
125*** |
6,338 |
72 |
91 |
109 |
99.5 |
* adjusted to par 72 by adding 180 yards
** as an unaccompanied guest; normal visitor green fee 240 euros
*** includes 15 euro discount for staying in the lodging at
the links
The trip itself came in virtually on budget. For this do-it-yourself golf tour of some of the best links of Ireland the costs in Canadian dollars based on an average exchange rate of 1.5803 Canadian $ per euro were:
Expense |
Cost |
|
|
Greens fees |
$1,974 |
Lodging |
750 |
Food |
651 |
Transportation |
204 |
|
|
Total |
$3,579 |
To these costs one needs to add
- airfare, which brings the cost to around $4,500 prior to any additional expenditures on
- trolley and buggy fees, for those who don't carry their clubs and
- personal purchases / souvenirs such as clothing, caps, club covers etc.
Lodging was most often bed and breakfast or small hotels ranging from a low of 40 euros to a high of 63 euros with an average cost per person per night of 50 euros (approx. $75 Canadian).
Transportation includes car rental - we had two vehicles (SUVs) - fuel, tolls and a ferry.
The cost of breakfast is included in the lodging (all places were B&B) with the food essentially being dinner and often a pint or two in the clubhouse after the round. The food in Ireland was really quite excellent and we ate well, often having wine with dinner when at nicer restaurants.
In terms of lodging following are the B&Bs / Hotels were we stayed. Most were quite nice, especially Berry Lodge, Lakelands Farm (where the host offered to wash our clothes), Brook Manor Lodge and Shelburne Lodge. The Anner was large and busy but did accommodate our need for having dinner on site. On the other hand the restaurant - the reason for choosing the Waterside hotel - was not in operations, which was irritating, particularly on a Monday when many other restaurants were not open. But all in all good accommodations at reasonable prices.
Ireland 2016 Lodging | ||
Town |
Lodging |
Price |
|
|
|
Spanish Point |
Berry Lodge |
40 euros |
Ballybunion |
Cashen Course House |
55 euros |
Tralee (2 nights) |
Brook Manor Lodge |
60 euros |
Waterville |
Lakelands Farm |
44 euros |
Kenmare |
Shelburne Lodge |
63 euros |
Thurles |
Anner Hotel |
50 euros |
Termonfeckin |
Waterside Hotel |
45 euros |
Baltray (2 nights) |
County Louth Golf Links |
40 euros* |
|
|
|
* with a 15 euro discount to greens fees |
Scorecards of the links played
The Island Golf Club
Ballybunion Cashen
Old Course
Waterville Golf Links
Seapoint Golf Club
County Louth Golf Club
Old Head Golf Club
Tralee Golf Links
Lahinch Golf Club
After our overnight flight through St. John's where Norm met the five arriving from Toronto we arrived early in Dublin. We picked up our rental vehicles, drove three plus hours to the west coast, and had lunch at the Lahinch links. Without any pressure or rush we were ready for our 3:00 pm and 3:10 pm tee times. It was a beautiful day in Lahinch - somewhat cool but sunny without much wind.
There were a number of highlights of the round, starting with
- Byron's first eagle of his life - on the 463 yard par 5 4th hole known as Klondyke. A quirky hole with a narrow fairway, dunes on both sides and a huge, like really huge dune right in the middle of the fairway, with a white stone to provide the line to the green. Byron played the hole to perfection - a nice long drive down the right edge of the fairway, a wonderful fairway wood over the dune to 15 ft., and a putt dead centre with perfect weight. Eagle 3!
- Klondyke was also kind to others as Guy also hit the green in two; two putting for a birdie and both Rob and Norm were on in regulation and made par
- with the thrill of the eagle Byron went on an exceptional six hole stretch - eagle, par, double, birdie, par, par - one under for the six holes
- Byron's 39 on the front nine
- one bad tee shot cost Byron two penalty strokes but otherwise he had a solid back nine of 46 for an 85 - the only round in the 80s of the trip
- Guy had the birdie and three pars on the front nine for a 43, and his 95 was a considerable improvement from the 112 at Lahinch in 2009
- Norm did not incur a penalty stroke, while Byron, Rob and Leonard has only two each and Guy four.
- our best ball of one under 35 on the front nine was impressive.
Disappointingly, unlike our previous visits to Lahinch we did not cross paths with any goats on the links.
Lahinch | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Byron | 85 | 33 | 11 | 2 |
Rob | 94 | 35 | 4 | 2 |
Guy | 95 | 36 | 6 | 4 |
Leonard | 114 | 35 | 2 | 2 |
Norm | 115 | 38 | 1 | 0 |
Mike | 125 | 39 | 1 | 9 |
This one with Rob but not Norm.
... and this one with Norm but not Rob.
"So this is golf in Ireland ... green fairways, dunes and lots of sun" says Leonard, the only first timer on the trip.
Clearly this is something to smile about.
... and we're underway ... the 1st hole at Lahinch, a 363 yard uphill par 4 with a forgiving fairway but an elevated green with severe drop-offs short and right.
The 2nd green as seen from the clubhouse.
The 3rd fairway, a long 401 349 yards with a completely blind tee shot up over the dunes, then down to a green set on the edge of the ocean. Great golf hole.
"OK the scorebook says there is a green down there somewhere but I just don't see it. Do you? There's that narrow strip of fairway and then that giant dune cutting across the fairway but where's the green? Norm says you hit over that white rock on the side of the dune but he must be mistaken. That's crazy. Never seen anything like it"
"Apparently Norm is right (again). Hit it over that stone and you should be good."
Sure the 4th hole known as Klondyke is a bit quirky. Sure it is only a 463 yard par 5. Sure it has a stroke index of 18. Sure the second shot is totally blind over the huge dune. But here we are - three balls lined up - Norm just short of the green in two; Byron only 15 ft. from the pin in two; and Rob on the back of the green in three.
How did we fare? Rob two putted for his par. Norm's approach ran out and he left his birdie but a foot short, making an easy par. But Byron, for the first eagle of his life rolled his 15 footer perfectly into the cup.
In the other group Guy, like Byron also hit two great shots hitting the green in two. But unlike Byron he two putted for the birdie.
Quite the hole.
Batter up. Fortunately Byron was a very decent ball player as this is most definitely more of a baseball than a golf swing. This is the side of the deep hollow that exists about 100 yards short of the green in the 6th fairway.
What you don't see is the wide deep hallow in the middle of the 6th fairway, at the bottom of which is this bunker. Pure evil.
If there weren't already enough challenges the steep banking on the 6th added yet another.
The next two photos are of the picturesque 8th hole, a well bunkered (Norm well knows) par 3 of only 143 yards but with tricky winds swirling through the hollows. Not a problem for Byron, Rob, Guy and Leonard, all of whom hit the green in regulation and pared the hole.
The 7th fairway, only 349 yards but a completely blind tee shot up over the dunes, then down to a green set on the edge of the ocean.
After the round we had dinner in the clubhouse before driving the half hour or so to our B&B in Spanish Point, a bit down the coast from Lahinch. For some of us the opportunity to get to bed could not come soon enough.
After a long tough first day it was nice to start the next with tasty full Irish breakfast - coffee, tea, juice, breads, jams and marmalede, fruit, yoghurt - we enjoyed it all.
And of course a main plate - the full Irish Breakfast; an omelette or scrambled eggs and salmon.
The Old Course at Ballybunion is considered one of the top Irish links, having hosted the Irish Open among many other prestigious tournaments. Although the day started quite nice unfortunately the weather forecast was accurate and we played the back nine in wind and rain - not very pleasant conditions. Only Norm had previously played the links. The first three holes were better than what he remembered although holes four through six were somewhat nondescript. But from the 7th on the links gets its reputation. The miserable conditions did not allow us to enjoy the experience, and showed in our scores were there were only a total of six pars on the back nine. The greens proved challenging with and average of 37.3 putts per person, the most of any course during the trip. On the other hand we collectively only took 17 penalty strokes, with Byron, Rob, Leonard and Mike having two or less, the fewest of any links on the trip.
Ballybunion Old Course | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Byron | 97 | 35 | 4 | 2 |
Guy | 97 | 35 | 4 | 5 |
Rob | 101 | 36 | 2 | 0 |
Leonard | 109 | 39 | 2 | 2 |
Mike | 112 | 44 | 2 | 2 |
Norm | 116 | 35 | 2 | 6 |
Arrival at the Ballybunion Golf Club.
Warming up on the practice putting green.
A most appropriate name for the 1st hole at the Old Couse of Ballybunion as will be evident by the following photos.
Heavy fescue and a cemetery - signs to not hit it right off the first tee.
Norm was not the only official photographer of the trip. A number of the following photos were taken by Guy.
Guy receiving guidance from the starter. Essentially his message was 'Don't hit it in the cemetery' - and none of us did.
Nice form from Leonard and Rob on the first tee but it was Byron and Mike who both hit the green in regulation and pared the hole to start their round.
The graveyard adjacent to the right side of the first fairway.
Byron approaching the 2nd green.
The elevated 2nd green - a 385 yard par 4 with a stroke index of 1, and it showed as we experienced five doubles or worse.
After the 11 strokes to get out of the 11th hole bunker yesterday at Lahinch Guy wanted to get some photos to Norm's form in order to provide some (obviously necessary) assistance. Although this 'out' was ok (at least it got out) Norm continued to struggle until Guy provided some advice later at Old Head re opening the club face through an adjustment in grip. Not perfect but Norm's bunker play improved moderately afterwards.
"Oh if only I was right handed at times."
"Perhaps I should have worn a cap. It is wet out here!"
The spectacular and challenging 11th - a 385 yard downhill hole with out of bounds all down the right; fescue on the left and a narrow gap to a green that drops off in the front. We actually played the hole quite well with Mike and Guy making par and two other bogeys.
It is kind of hard to concentrate on the golf with distractions such as the pounding surf of the Atlantic ocean.
The 17th, a sharp dog leg left 350 yard par 4 with the tee box well above the fairway beyond the top right at the height of the dunes.
The 18th tee box down by the ocean and the fairway as seen from the clubhouse earlier in the day when the weather was much better.
... and the narrow 18th green.
During breakfast at the Cashen Course House - our B&B in Ballybunion.
Ballybunion Cashen has consistently proven to be a very difficult test of golf for us, again being the links where we incurred the most penalty strokes. In fact three (Guy, Norm and Mike) all were in the double digits in terms of penalty strokes. At the other end of the spectrum Byron had none and Leonard only two.
After yesterday's rain and wind it was nice to see some blue sky, some sun and modest rather than howling wind.
There were a number of highlights
- Byron's 94 (including no penalty strokes), a 15 stroke improvement from 2009; only one par but only one triple and three doubles - a very consistent round
- Guy's 21 stroke improvement from 2009; and even with 14 penalty strokes this round it was an 11 penalty stroke improvement!
- Mike's continual improvement - 125 in 1994 to 119 in 2009 to 116
- excellent putting (or perhaps the least difficult greens) all round with an average of only 32 putts per person
- Norm's birdie on 5; two 0 putts (both 16 ft. from off the green) and only 28 putts in total
- a nice sunny day to enjoy a round of golf
Ballybunion Cashen | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Byron | 94 | 31 | 1 | 0 |
Rob | 98 | 36 | 5 | 5 |
Guy | 105 | 32 | 6 | 14 |
Leonard | 109 | 32 | 2 | 2 |
Norm | 113 | 28 | 3 | 12 |
Mike | 116 | 33 | 1 | 10 |
"And I thought the last hole was spectacular ... just take a look at this"
"Let's see the sun is out, it is warming up a bit, ya I guess I can put these golf mitts away ... at least for a while."
The 3rd hole, a relatively short 154 yard par 3 but with a tricky undulating green. Leonard got up and down with a one putt for the only par.
View from the 4th tee at across the 5th fairway, 6th green (on the left) and 7th fairway to the Atlantic. Note the hollows and elevation changes.
Playing from the 4th fairway, after teeing off high upon a dune.
The 5th, a short, but playing longer into a still wind, 314 yard par 4 carved into the slope of the dune. Assuming one finds the fairway it is a blind shot to a narrow green with dune and fescue behind and dune and fescue short. Norm mastered the hole dropping a 16 ft. putt from just off the back of the green for a birdie. Rob also played the hole well, hitting the green in regulation and making par.
Fortunately this dune was between holes. Thank goodness we did not have to play over it.
Rob by the 7th green, a short but narrow 335 yard par 4 with a huge hollow on the right, the ocean on the left and a narrow approach to a green guarded by dunes and fescue on the right. Easy peasy ... not! Guy however did manage to make par.
Dunes, fescue and ocean ... Irish golf.
Ballybunion Cashen is perhaps the most dramatic links we have played, and we have played all the big name links in Ireland, Republic and North. Wild, massive dunes (if the ball is in there just drop another one), seaside greens and the ocean. Quite the golfing experience.
"The green is to the left you idiot. So what is down there in that hollow?"
"Nothing but deep heavy fescue. Time to reload and try again."
The 16th green at Ballybunion Cashen; a tough par 3 - only 158 yards on the card but playing much longer into the teeth of the wind.
Generally there would be some time between arriving at our B&B and heading out to dinner. Some caught up on correspondence, while others like Guy caught up on their sleep.
Breakfast at Brook Manor Lodge was filling and impressive with lots of choice including the full Irish breakfast, with beans, scrambled eggs and salmon as well as other options. Norm's highlight was the porridge with Bailey's Irish Cream.
The view from our room at Brook Manor Lodge outside of Tralee - various shades of Irish green with mountains in the distance.
Certainly windy and again cool but otherwise the sun was shining for a nice day of golf. Tralee turned out to be a challenge, both today and even more so with the wet weather of our second round tomorrow. Our two highest scoring rounds were at Tralee with only Guy being able to break 100 (both days). Not particularly long at 6,177 yards the links has significant elevation changes, particularly on the back nine, is well bunkered and well protected by large dunes and heavy fescue. There are a number of very difficult holes - the 2nd, 8th, 11th, 12th, 16th and 17th standing out.
There really weren't many highlights on a miserable day.
- Guy broke 100
- Norm kept the ball in play not taking any penalty strokes
- this vistas of the ocean and dunes were spectacular
Tralee Golf Links - Round 1 | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Guy | 97 | 35 | 4 | 4 |
Rob | 100 | 38 | 1 | 3 |
Byron | 104 | 35 | 2 | 6 |
Leonard | 106 | 37 | 3 | 2 |
Norm | 109 | 36 | 2 | 0 |
Mike | 122 | 40 | 1 | 11 |
There is a bigger than life size statute of Arnie near the 1st tee at Tralee. Of course everyone, and no doubt it is everyone who plays Tralee has to have their photo taken with Arnie ... and we all did.
... and of course one with all of us (ok ok this is a repeat of an earlier photo but it feels right to include it in the Tralee section).
The joys, and risks of playing along the ocean.
'The Cuilan', the 2nd hole at Tralee is a long (524 yards) par 5 for which one drives left and then follows a sharp dog-leg along the coast. As Arnold Palmer, the course designer was quoted as saying Tralee was "Created by God. Designed by Arnold Palmer"
"Can it get much better than this?"
Mike and Byron just off the 3rd green, seen to the right with the remnants of a castle directly behind (hence the hole name 'The Castle').
The 3rd hole (The Castle) at Tralee - short but difficult to focus with the ocean lurking.
"I should try to get this on the green but the stance is awkward and the likelihood of succeeding slim ... and the consequence of going long really not very good."
"So let me play smart and go back, try to chip and one putt" (the going back was fine but the chip and three putt not so much.)
The 8th green; the Atlantic Ocean.
Again, one going forward and one going backward.
The well bunkered 9th (Hare's Lane) up the hill to the clubhouse.
'Bracken', the long 423 yard par 4 12th hold at Tralee is the #1 index hole for good reason. A blind tee shot over a ridge, if even perfect leaves a very dangerous approach with a deep hollow guarding the green. Over the two rounds our collective average score was 7.4. Enough said.
The 13th at Tralee - Brock's Hollow is short at 127 yards but has trouble long (the huge dune) and real trouble short (the hollow) where Rob found himself. The narrow green was literally carved into the side of the dune. By the way shortly after taking the photo Norm found himself in pretty much the exact same spot. Both managed bogeys while Byron, Guy and Leonard all pared the hole.
Weather wise the worst day of the trip - miserable on the front nine but considerably worse on the back as evidenced by our scoring. Yesterday we were collectively 6 strokes higher on the back nine but today 47 strokes higher. With the wet weather I left the camera in the car - not much to see anyway. Good thing yesterday was decent.
Again not much in terms of highlights on a miserable day.
- Guy broke 100 - with 10 penalty strokes!
- Rob and Mike putted well
- Norm again didn't take any penalty strokes
- Mike had three consecutive pars (5, 6 and 7)
- somewhat surprisingly given the weather our collective score of 641 (the highest of the trip) was only 3 strokes worse than the previous day; as well we had fewer putts and considerably more pars (20 compared to 13)
- we survived
Tralee Golf Links - Round 2 | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Guy | 97 | 37 | 5 | 10 |
Rob | 102 | 31 | 5 | 3 |
Mike | 103 | 32 | 1 | 4 |
Norm | 107 | 38 | 2 | 0 |
Byron | 115 | 38 | 2 | 8 |
Leonard | 117 | 43 | 2 | 2 |
Normally after our round we would have a pint (or two for non-drivers). Some drank Guinness while others were less fans of the traditional Irish stout. After today's struggles there might have been one or two more Guinness than normal consumed.
We generally ate and drank quite well, as can be seen here at The Smugglers Inn in Waterville.
'Last Easy' - the 1st hole; 'Sanctuary', 'Tranquility', 'Mass Hole', 'Liam's Ace' - the Waterville Golf Links have some of the best hole names. Playing 6,330 from the green tees all in all the links was not as challenging as we recalled, particularly due to the very wide fairways. However the scenery - the water and mountains - made for a very enjoyable afternoon. Scoring was generally pretty good except for Mike and Norm's 17 on the par 3 Mass Hole - 12 efforts to get out of the bunker is detrimental to one's score, but you have to give Norm props for persistence and honesty. If only he would have gone out backwards eight or nine shots earlier).
Highlights of the day included
- Mike's 25 foot putt for birdie on the 4th hole (Dunes)
- 16 pars (seven for Rob alone) combined for Rob, Guy and Byron who played together, including all three paring Tranquility, the par 5 11th hole
- Rob, Guy and Byron all scoring 95 or less
- Norm having a decent round absent the 12th hole - even a triple bogey would have had him breaking 100
- but clearly the highlight of the day was Leonard's putting. You had to see it first hand to appreciate how good he was. No bombs but putt after putt between 5 and 12 feet - dead centre. He would have a 10 footer ... in. Then an 8 footer ... in. Then another 10 footer ... in. Then a 12 footer ... in. Then a 7 footer ... in. Eight one putts and no three putts. Leonard was on fire!
Waterville | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Rob | 91 | 33 | 6 | 2 |
Byron | 94 | 32 | 4 | 3 |
Guy | 95 | 34 | 5 | 5 |
Leonard | 105 | 28 | 1 | 4 |
Norm | 109 | 31 | 1 | 0 |
Mike | 120 | 40 | 2 | 8 |
The rabbit is the logo of Waterville, and sensibly so given the number we saw out on the links.
At the 1st tee - Waterville.
"Norm, hold on. You're set up all wrong. You're going to hit the 7th fairway. The 1st is straight ahead of you ... to the right to the right."
"You have to know your swing mechanics and how it impacts your flight path. Just watch; you'll see."
And indeed Norm's tee shot was centre fairway!
"See Norm this is how it is done. Feet and body aligned with the fairway."
"I think you take it down the left-centre, shape it just a bit left to right into the wind and use the contour of the fairway to end up on the right side for the better angle into that back left pin position."
"Is he for real? I just want to hit the fairway ... anywhere ... and we'll take it from there"
Some of the beauty of Waterville - and this without the water.
Approaching the 3rd green (Sanctuary, although we're not sure we understand the logic of that naming), a tough 364 yard par 4 with water all down the right, as Rob, Guy and Mike unfortunately all discovered. And look at the flag blow!
Nice form Rob!
... and you too Byron!
The 4th hole, aptly named Dunes, a 154 par 3 where Mike hit the green in regulation and sank his 25 ft. or so putt for birdie.
Just your average monstrous dune, with a good breeze (note the flag) at the 11th green (Tranquility), a short but challenging 467 yard par 5 through the dunes. All three - Rob, Byron and Guy made par on the hole.
Leonard and Mike on the 16th (Liam's Ace) green at Waterville.
"Let's see, that's one of the tee, two to the bunker, a nice out but I missed the putt ... a bogey five."
Must have been a long putt for the ball to rise above the green
After our round at Waterville we drove half way to Kinsale where we were to play Old Head the next day, stopping in Kenmare for the evening. The weather was perfect providing for some spectacular sights as we travelled around the southern coast of the Ring of Kerry.
A beautiful rainbow over Kenmare as we walked in to town for dinner.
For the most part we stayed at nice but basic B&Bs.
One however had a little history, being Shelburne Lodge in Kenmare.
Dating from the mid 18th century the home was the home of William Petty Fitzmaurice, or Lord Shelburne. Lord Shelburne completed the design of Kenmare in 1775 and later served a short term as Prime Minister of Great Britain seven years later.
Of course we enjoyed another wonderful Irish breakfast.
When planning the trip we considered Old Head but at 240 euros for visitors decided it was just too much to pay for one round of golf. However Matt Bishop, while in Florida during the winter played with a fellow, Kelly Frank who is a member at the club. They got chatting and Kelly mentioned he could get us on the links as 'unaccompanied guests' for 'only' 135 euros. We quickly agreed to the offer and afterwards all agreed it was a great decision.
Perched on a promontory the setting is dramatic and impressive. For the most part we enjoyed a sunny day, the exception being the 8th and 9th holes when an isolated storm blew in off the ocean. We could see it headed our way and unfortunately for half an hour it just poured on us. But as we made the turn the clouds passed and the sun was again prominent. As well the wind was pretty much non-existent, providing as an enjoyable golfing experience.
The white tees are a bit long at 6,464 while the yellows too short at 5,714. We compromised playing the pay 5s from the whites and the others from the yellows, for a total of 6,115.
Regrettably Rob pulled a muscle on the 5th hole and was unable to play seriously the rest of the way. He took some light swings but didn't complete the round. He insists it had nothing to do with the four putt on the 3rd green :-).
Highlights of the day included
- simply the opportunity to play,
- the great service of staff
- Norm paring the 18th with a 7 ft. putt to break 100 for the first time on the trip, even with two 9s and two 8s on the card
- Norm dropping 103 feet of putts (yes he keeps this data) including three putts of > 20 feet
- Mike with five pars
- after an awful front nine and a bad start to the back Guy rebounded with three pars and four bogeys over the last seven holes
- for the most part a calm, sunny day
- and did I mention the spectacular vistas
As we were led to believe the links is of course very photogenic. It did not disappoint in any way. Enjoy!
Old Head Golf Links | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Byron | 98 | 33 | 3 | 1 |
Norm | 99 | 32 | 7 | 2 |
Guy | 106 | 40 | 3 | 11 |
Mike | 112 | 40 | 5 | 9 |
Leonard | 119 | 38 | 0 | 8 |
Rob | did not finish |
Byron approaching the 1st (Sli Na Firinne) green.
As you leave the 1st green, one of the 'inner' holes and head to 2nd tee you reach the edge of the promontory and are immediately struck by the beauty of the coastline, that much more impressive in the sunshine.
Even non-golfers have to admit this is pretty spectacular - the 2nd hold (Gun Hole) at Old Head.
The photos everyone takes, from the 5th (Hake Head) green with the lighthouse as the backdrop.
Even as Leonard is being helpful picking up the tee Guy continues to admire another beauty ... or is he trying to cox the ball to stay in play?
Ominous skies. On three occasions we saw the rain streaming from the clouds over the ocean. On one occasion it tracked directly to the links, letting loose on the 8th and 9th holes, which we played in a downpour. But it soon passed and the back nine, as were the first six holes was played in beautiful sunshine.
The greens at Old Head are like infinity pools in that they seem (and at times do) to end just where the cliff begins.
The 4th hole - cliff, fairway and the lighthouse beyond. Not surprisingly the hole is known as The Razor's Edge.
Not much better than enjoying a sunny (at least at this point in the day) round of links golf at Old Head.
The 7th (Legal Eagle) in the foreground and the 13th (The Sovereigns) behind, both par 3s along the cliff side.
More of the awesome coastal scenery as seen from Old Head Golf Links.
Guy hit a perfect drive, went on to reach the green in regulation and two putt for a par.
On the other hand Norm took his only two penalty strokes of the day by seriously hooking his first drive down the cliff side to the ocean. His second drive was much better although there remains an expression of disgust at the initial tee shot. He went on to take a 9!
From the tee box of Courcean Stage, the 12th at Old Head. Go right and one is embedded in the monstrous dune; go left and it is off the cliff and if far enough in the ocean. The only option is a straight, long carry to reach the distant plateau left of the tower.
Once one successfully drives to the top of the plateau there is still considerable work to do. The hole then continues along the cliff side with a narrow entrance to a green guarded by large dunes on the right. Err to that side and you have a side-hill shot from the fescue of a dune; err to the left and you can pull out another ball - simply a great hole from start to finish.
Like all but one par 3 at Old Head the 13th (the Sovereigns) is carved into the side of the terrain. Very short at 121 yards this treacherous hole requires not only that one must keep to the right off the tee (there is nothing but sea to the left) but having done so one must still navigate the very undulating green.
The 16th green (Coosgorm), another nice 160 yard par 3 hugging the cliff side, well guarded by bunkers on the right and in front (Norm well knows) requiring a full carry.
On the 16th tee with the lighthouse out at the point.
The 17th green (Lighthouse) hugging the seaside after a sliver of fairway. The long 575 yard par 5 has a demanding tee shot but then does benefit from playing mostly downhill.
Unfortunately the groundskeeper who took the photo cut Leonard off but sill a pretty nice shot of the group on the 18th green at Old Head.
Founded in 1890 The Island is one of the first 12 golf clubs in Ireland.
“In September 1887 four men rowed across the channel which separates the North Dublin village of Malahide from the spur of land to the north known locally as the Island. Their mission was to survey the wilderness and assess its suitably as a golf links.”
The links was unique in that access continued to be by boat through 1973 when the service was discontinued. However in cases of deteriorating weather return voyage was not always possible necessitating a very lengthy trip back to Dublin through Swords.
The green tees at the Island measure 6,565 - par 71 (6,762 adjusted to a par 72 equivalent). As a result we decided to play a combination of greens and reds resulting in a pare 72 adjusted equivalent length of 6,374. In retrospect, with the dry fairways allowing the ball to roll out we probably should have played the greens - oh well.
The dunes at the Island, reportedly some of he largest in Ireland (although I still believe those at Ballybunion Cashen are more so) can be an issue, as I discovered on the 15th.
I decided to leave my camera in the car so there are only a few photos provided by Guy. As well highlights are few (perhaps we are getting tired) with no birdies.
- absent his nine penalty strokes Guy scored well, in part due to a group leading five pars
- more of a lowlight but pars were hard to come by with a total of only 13 for the six of us
- Rob enjoyed a nice consistent round with nothing worse than a double bogey on his card
- again the weather was nice - cool but sunny with only moderate wind
The Island | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Rob | 90 | 36 | 4 | 0 |
Guy | 97 | 33 | 5 | 9 |
Byron | 99 | 35 | 0 | 4 |
Norm | 102 | 36 | 2 | 4 |
Leonard | 108 | 36 | 1 | 2 |
Mike | 118 | 42 | 1 | 14 |
A relatively newcomer to Irish golf links Seapoint, designed by Ryder Cupper Des Smyth the links was built in the early 90s - not the 1890s as most other links we played but the 1990s with opening in 1993.
Due to its proximity to County Louth and its very reasonable greens fees of only 35 euros we decided to play Seapoint, a links literally adjacent to County Louth. Doing so allowed us to stay our last two nights in the rooms available at the County Louth clubhouse.
We played the white tees, which at measuring 6,718 yards was by far the longest links played. That said the fairways were hard and the wind modest. Given the relatively flat terrain the course should have played easy. But not the case, especially for Norm and Mike.
Very few highlights today
- a great start by Guy, with three pars and a birdie in the first six holes
- no penalty strokes for Leonard
- nice weather
Seapoint | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Rob | 92 | 33 | 4 | 2 |
Guy | 96 | 28 | 7 | 6 |
Byron | 99 | 35 | 3 | 3 |
Leonard | 102 | 32 | 0 | 0 |
Norm | 115 | 34 | 0 | 11 |
Mike | 118 | 34 | 0 | 8 |
Waiting to tee off at Seapoint - Mike studiously reviewing the yardage book and Byron and Guy, well who knows? Nice enough for shorts; cool enough for jackets.
The 370 yard 16th at Seapoint. Although most of the links was relatively flat with minimal mounding the final three holes, starting here at 16 were somewhat more dramatic. The full gorse added some nice colour n addition to a significant hazard to the hole.
Leonard on the tee at 16 as well as getting his round started at the 1st.
Norm teeing off on the 16th as well, and Norm and Rob with the Irish Sea in the background.
The 17th at Seapoint, a very nice 171 yard par 3. No one made par and thanks to a pulled tee shot lost in the heavy fescue on the left mounding Norm took a quadruple!
Ok, so maybe we didn't always keep it in the short stuff.
The 18th green and fairway from the clubhouse.
As mentioned there is an option to stay in rooms at County Louth, which we did the last two nights. Staff were very good, even putting out some breakfast (cereal, fruit, coffee etc.) items for our 5:00 am wake-up to get to the airport the last day. The rooms were modest and the squeaking doors an irritant but we did get a discount on the golf and it was really kind of a nice experience staying right at the links.
There are not many options for dinner in Termonfeckin but we enjoyed our meal at the Triple House we returned a second evening. The service was great - guests sit in a waiting room (with drinks available of course) and after a short while are escorted to their table where we enjoyed excellent, reasonably priced meals both evenings. Salmon, steaks and lots of potatoes and vegetables.
County Louth, sometimes known by the name of the local village Baltry, was established in 1892. Redesigned by Tom Simpson in the mid 1930s the links has hosted a number of championships, including the 2004 and 2009 Irish Opens.
We played the green tees, measuring 6,338 yards over par 72 on a very windy day.
Highlights included
- birdies by Leonard (3rd hole) and Norm (10th hole)
- Leonard (96 with five pars and the birdie) and Norm (91) each had their best rounds of the trip
- Mike had four pars on the back nine and even with a 10 on the 18th tied his best nine of 48 of the trip
- although I would not consider County Louth the easiest course played we did collectively score the lowest, with an average score of 99.5
- in line with good scoring we collectively had the most pars at any course, with 27 and most greens in regulation with 20
County Louth / Baltray | Score | Putts | Pars | Penalties |
|
|
|
|
|
Norm | 91 | 32 | 5 | 0 |
Byron | 94 | 35 | 4 | 2 |
Leonard | 96 | 33 | 7 | 2 |
Rob | 102 | 36 | 4 | 0 |
Mike | 105 | 36 | 4 | 8 |
Guy | 109 | 36 | 3 | 8 |
The crest and a flag of County Louth Golf Club, established in 1892.
Clubs often fly the flags of their guests, in this case the Canadian flag was flying at least for our group at County Louth.
No matter how cold, our wet, or in this case windy Mike would not be seen in other than shorts. That didn't mean it wasn't chilly enough (12 degrees C we were told) to bring out the golf mitts.
Like other links divot bags were provided. The difference here at County Louth was that they were mandatory.
Very nice form by Byron - textbook!
...and equally nice from Rob
Leonard powering through another drive at County Louth.
Once again, if only Guy was a righty (2nd hole County Louth).
Shorts and jackets - go figure.
Close, but this time not in the bunker (9th hold County Louth).
The starter mentioned there was a fox on the back nine. He said she was quite friendly although the look on the right might convince one otherwise.
But Guy, the animal lover he is was not deterred. The closest Guy came to a birdie all day was watching Norm sink a 39 ft. bomb on the 10th. Eagles were no where to be found which left the only option to befriend a fox.
Here we are, after our last round at County Louth. In spite of the sometimes not so great golf and 10 rounds in 10 days we do still seem to be a pretty happy bunch - smiles all around.
Another team breakfast in the Lahinch clubhouse.
... and a real 'Old Head' (or so the cap says)
Although the golf could have been better at times the trip went extremely well. As a newcomer Leonard fit in very well. The weather was overall perhaps not as great as previous trips - generally a few degrees cooler and the three occasions of rain was more than experienced on the other trips. But logistically the trip went off without a hitch. Flights were non time; no-one got lost; we made all our tee times; the lodging was good; and we enjoyed a great time. The consensus is to do this again in 2019, when most of us turn 65.
Now I know each of you might be expecting, as after past trips a trivia quiz. But first, as provided in 2012 here are:
A bunch of possibly interesting but useless facts
based on 10 rounds for all except Rob who only played five holes at Old Head.
Number of strokes 6,180
Yards played 371,909
Rounds played 59.28
Average length of hole (yards) 348
Best ball 56
Worst ball 199
Birdies
on par 3s - 1 on par 4s - 4 on par 5s - 2 (plus 1 eagle)
Byron - 1 (plus 1 eagle) Rob - 0 Guy - 2 Leonard - 1 Mike - 1 Norm - 2
Most consecutive pars / birdies / eagles
Rob - 3 - Waterville holes 4 through 6
Mike - 3 - Tralee holes 5 through 7
Byron - 3 - Lahinch holes 7 through 9 (7 was a birdie)
Amounts spent on green fees (at an average exchange of $1.58 euro)
Total $11,844.38
Average score and average score with individual hole capped at quadruple bogey
Rob - 96.7 Byron - 97.9 Guy - 99.4 Norm - 107.6 Leonard - 108.5 Mike - 115.1
Rob - 96.4 Byron - 97.7 Guy - 98.2 Norm - 103.3 Leonard - 106.5 Mike - 112.5
Average recorded (given the 'gimme') putts
Norm - 34.0 Byron - 34.2 Guy - 34.6 Rob - 34.9 Leonard - 35.3 Mike - 38.0
Penalty strokes (average per round)
Rob - 1.9 Leonard - 2.6 Byron 3.1 Norm - 3.9 Guy - 7.6 Mike - 8.3
And now what you have been anxiously been waiting for -
the Ireland Golf 2016 Trivia quiz
True or False?
1. Everyone except Byron had at least one four putt.
2. The longest stretch of consecutive par 4s was seven - holes 8 through 14 at County Louth.
3. The longest stretch without a par 4 was 5 - holes 12 through 16 at Ballybunion Old Course.
4. The longest par 4 was longer than the shortest par 5? Hint - the answer is the same was in2012.
5. With birdies counting as two pars and eagles as four, collectively we had more pars than penalty strokes.
6. 23.9% of the par 4s were 400 yards or longer.
7. In no case did a par 3 open the front or back nine, i.e. holes 1 and 10 were never par 3s.
8. We only played from the blue tees once - at Waterville.
9. The closing hole #18 had the greatest total yardage (4,434 yards), based on the total yards of all links played.
10. Guy had the most consecutive one putts - six at holes 3 through 8 at Seapoint.
11. Leonard (at Waterville) and Mike (at Ballybunion Cashen) were the only rounds without a 3 putt.
12. Our journey took us over 1,000 kms.
13. Both the shortest and longest par 3s were the 13th hole on their respective links.
14. There was a 102 yard difference between the shortest and longest par 3s.
15. At Ballybunion Cashen not one of us had a par over the last five holes (13th through 18th).
16. There was only one birdie recorded on the back nine of any links.
17. We had more scheduled tee times before noon than after noon.
18. In spite of the generally cool temperatures only Mike wore shorts every day
Multiple choice (and no returning to info by links to review)
1. We played clubs founded in each of the following years except
a) 1889
b) 1890
c) 1891
d) 1892
e) 1893
2. The links where we hit the fewest Greens in Regulation was
a) Tralee - Round 1
b) Tralee - Round 2
c) Seapoint
d) The Island
3. How many penalty strokes did we take
a) 100
b) 184
c) 270
d) 425
4. What was the longest and shortest par 4s
a) 18th at The Island and 15th at Tralee
b) 10th at Tralee and 16th at Old Head
c) 11th at County Louth and 13th at Lahinch
d) 12th at Seapoint and 8th at The Island
5. The easiest (and yes these were the four easiest) hole based on our total score to par was
a) the 463 yard par 5 5th hole at Lahinch
b) the 375 yard par 4 10th hole at County Louth
c) the 129 yard par 3 7th hole at Tralee (round 2)
d) the 480 yard par 5 4th hole at Ballybunion Old Course
6. The most difficult (and yes these were the four most difficult) hole (capping scores at no more than a quadruple bogey) was
a) the 429 yard par 4 14th hole at Lahinch
b) the 423 yard par 4 12th at Tralee (round 2)
c) the 435 yard par 5 18th at Tralee (round 2)
d) the 466 yard par 5 16th at Ballybunion Old
7. And speaking of quintuple (or worse) bogeys the most at any links was seven (7), which occurred three times. Which of the following was not one of those
a) Ballybunion Old Course
b) Ballybunion Cashen
c) Old Head
d) Tralee (round 2)
... and for those interested we had a total of 50 holes of the 1,067 (4.7 %) played with a quintuple or worse, with Byron and Rob recording only two each. The most for any one individual (the Erratic Golfer of the Trip award) was 14. The designer of the quiz has chosen to keep that individual anonymous to protect himself (oops).
8. Excluding 'official' putts and penalty strokes, how many shots did we collectively take?
a) 2,512
b) 3,837
c) 4,651
d) too many
9. The cost per shot (including putts but excluding penalty strokes) was
a) $1.71
b) $2.00
c) $2.61
d) $2.79
10. Our best ball was 76 at two links. They were
a) Seapoint and County Louth
b) Waterville and Lahinch
c) Seapoint and Waterville
d) County Louth and Lahinch
11. Our host at Berry Lodge, Spanish Point (south of Lahinch) was
a) Grainnie
b) Sandra
c) Rita
d) Anne
12. The hole with the fewest (three) pars (birdies count as two; eagles at four) was the
a) 2nd
b) 4th
c) 12th
d) 18th
Answers available only through emailing moosehead@accesswave.ca