Memories of Costa Rica (Alajuela, Guanacaste and Puntarenas):
Nineteen (19) days in north west Costa Rica. Here are our most vivid memories, in no particular order
- delivering beanie babies to a kindergarten class in Bijagua
- sunsets and sunsets and sunsets and sunsets - each stunning and vibrant
- dinner on the beach at Pangas, including the ceviche and Surf & Turf I cooked on a lava rock at my table ... and a final spectacular sunset
- the birds (particularly the toucans) at B&B Tenorio and elsewhere
- the farm tour at B&B Tenorio
- watching the turtle hatchlings being released and making their way to the sea
- Ovidio and Lorenzo (the crocodile)
- monkeys (seen nearly every day) swinging from the branches
- the 8 km Playa San Miguel
- eating at Locos Cocos, and Peluche (the dog)
- the flowers and large iguanas on our roof at Casa Mapache
- speed humps, and the gravel coast road
- walking Negro, Lassie, Shakira and Bonita at the Costa Rica Dog Rescue Centre
- a relaxing day and enjoyable buffet meal at Tabacon Hot Springs
- Gallo Pinto
- dips in the pools
- the consistently great weather - sunny and hot
- Alejandro and Pippa, and all the other people we met along the way
- the view from La Colina Pura Vista to Playa San Miguel and the ocean beyond
- enjoying the sunset from the infinity pool at Hotel Luna Azul
- the shrimp and lomito (beef) meals I enjoyed at Luna Azul
- all the fresh fruit at breakfast
- seeing an armadillo and capuchin monkeys
- the sounds of the howlder monkeys
- Gayle spotting a pygmy owl at Mundo Milo
- the ranch feel driving through Guanacaste
- early morning nature 'TV'
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 US$ = $1.35 Cdn):
Here are the costs of the of the trip (excluding airfare and souvenirs)
$ 3,450 lodging ($182 per night)
$ 1,517 food ($80 per day - primarily dinner and a few groceries / tapas)
$ 835 car rental ($731 or $38 per day) plus fuel ($104)
$ 150 Tabacon (excl. estimate of food included in food above)
$ 146 miscellaneous (primarily tips)
$ 6,098 for 19 days
The average cost per day (lodging, food, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $321.
Lodging ranged from a low of $80 US to a high of $186 US). Here is a list of where we stayed, their location, amount we paid and links to their websites.
$186 Heliconias Nature Lodge La Fortuna www.heliconiasnaturelodge.com/
102 Casitas Tenorio B&B Bijagua www.casitastenorio.com/
173 Hotel Luna Azul Ostional - Juanillo www.hotellunaazul.com/index.htm
142 La Colina Pura Vista Playa San Miguel www.lacolinapuravista.com/
80 Mundo Milo Eco Lodge Junquillal www.mundomilo.com
107 Casa Mapache Huacas www.casamapache.com
It is our practice not to using a booking agency, e.g. Booking.com but rather book online directly with each place we stay, after having contacted them through email. In this way we save the establishment the booking commission and are familiar to the staff when we arrive.
The average lodging cost at $182 was considerably less than previous trips to Costa Rica (and Panama) yet we were every bit as pleased with our lodgings. Other trips included further off the path / isolated eco lodges which explains much of the difference.
Overall, the average cost of this trip was well less than the past two trips to Costa Rica (and Panama). The following reflect all costs other than airfare to/from and souvenirs, i.e. they include lodging, food, vehicle rental, fuel, miscellaneous and tours, if any.
$438 - 2018 Costa Rica
$425 - 2018 Panama
$415 - 2016 Hawaii
$383 - 2017 Costa Rica
$321 - 2019 Costa Rica
February 25, 2019 - Casa Mapache (Huacas)
Our last day in Costa Rica and again we spent most of it at Casa Mapache. First a nice breakfast, then time in the pool, some work on the blog and then back to the pool. Actually to think about it that's exactly what we did yesterday.
We had a reservation for 5:00 pm at Pangas. We arrived early with the hopes of getting a prime table. Being the first ones in the restaurant we were given the front table on the beach, no other tables or obstructions between us and the estuary/ocean. We started with a few drinks - two basic margaritas for me (it was happy hour) and a fancy Carambola Colada - Creme de coco de la casa; Flor do Cana 7 anos y carambola fresca - homemade coconut cream, Flor de Cana 7 years and fresh star fruit, for Gayle. We lingered over our drinks while watching another stunning sunset.
We were going to enjoy the meal, with no limits on the colones. Gayle started with a Gazpacho - chilled cucumber, bell peppers, red onions and croutons, while I had the mixed ceviche - marinated fish, shrimp and octopus. For main courses Gayle had the Vegetarian Flat Bread, a mix of smoked pear, zucchini and artichokes over a bed of fresh tomato and mozzarella, sprinkled with capers. Well presented but not as great as it read in the menu. I went with the surf & turf, four large grilled shrimp and an 8 oz steak for 22,000 colones (a little < $50 Cdn). The unique thing about the experience is the manner by which the beef is cooked - on a heated piece of lava rock by the guest them self at the table. The meal was enhanced by a glass of Argentinian Luigi Bosco Pinot Noir. We were too full to even consider dessert. The whole meal came to $138 Cdn - really quite reasonable for the drinks and food let alone the the ambiance of eating dinner on the beach enjoying the sunset. It was a great last evening.
Every day of the trip started with Gayle up early, usually with her eyes scanning for any nearby wildlife. Today a troop of monkeys passed through the trees on the Casa Mapache grounds.
I'm glad Gayle got me up to see the monkeys.
I take a lot of grief over my 'raspberry' golf shirt. Gayle insisted we do a colour match with this bougainvallia.
More colour at Casa Mapache.
Last day - maximizing our use of the pool.
Pangas came highly recommended and certainly lived up to its reputation.
Dinner on the beach with what turned out to be another magnificent sunset - a perfect end to our trip.
Last night - last magnificent sunset.
Sun, sun, sun ... and there goes the sun Mixed ceviche - fish, shrimp and octopus.
Gayle's meal - gazpacho and then a vegetarian flat bread with smoked pear.
And finally my Surf & Turf where I cooked the meat on a hot lava rock, with a number of tasty sauces.
February 24, 2019 - Casa Mapache (Huacas)
Another day in paradise. First a nice breakfast, then time in the pool, some work on the blog and then back to the pool. We decided to have a mid afternoon meal in Tamirindo before taking a walk on the beach to enjoy what we expected would be another magnificent sunset.
We had a nice lunch at Green Papaya where Gayle had an expensive margarita (premium tequila) along with a large burrito filled with stir-fried zucchini, carrot, sweet red pepper, cabbage, onion, mushroom, spinach, kale, rice, black beans, cream cheese and roasted sun-flower seeds - a smorgasbord of ingredients with a hot hot sauce, a sauce that became increasing hot as time passed. Gayle found the burrito surprisingly good. I had the Caribbean Coconut Curry, chicken with stir fried vegetables in coconut curry sauce served over rice. Also good.
After a chat with the waiter about life in Tamarindo / Costa Rica we strolled down to the beach - a beach that was much calmer than most and certainly more crowded than most. But the sunset did not in any way disappoint. It truly was magnificent, as hopefully you will agree after seeing the photos below.
On the way back to Casa Mapache we stopped at Pangas, a restaurant for which we had two recommendations, where we made a reservation for tomorrow night.
An omelette and fruit for breakfast. The pool and our room (on the right) at Casa Mapache.
Gayle had a huge burrito, with a particularly hot hot sauce while I had the Caribbean coconut curried chicken.
Sunset as seen from Tamarindo's beach - we just sat, watched and enjoyed.
February 23, 2019 - Mundo Milo (Junquillal) to Casa Mapache (Huacas)
Our last day at Mundo Milo. Although we had a noon check out we were welcome to stay as our next lodging was < 1 hr away with check in not until 4:00 pm. We worked on the travel blog and had a couple of dips in the pool.
We enjoyed a great few days at Mundo Milo. The staff were wonderful, the rooms interestingly themed (we being in one of the two Persian rooms) and a wealth of wildlife nearby, from the birds flying through the open-air restaurant, a pygmy owl Gayle saw early one morning, iguanas in trees adjacent to the property, numerous monkeys, crocodiles in a nearby mangrove swamp and a turtle sanctuary where hatchlings are released to find their way back to the sea. Furthermore meals were very good along with being well priced, all served in a friendly manner by either Micheil, Lieke or Ariani.
We finally left around 2:30 pm for the short drive to Casa Mapache, just past Tamarindo.
We were met at Casa Mapache. approx. 15 minutes beyond Tamarindo, by Stephanie, who welcomed us with a broad smile. After getting the lay of the land we took Stephanie up on her suggestion for dinner in nearby Huacas. Punta Tranquilo is a decent typical Costa Rican Soda (a diner). The only negative was that it is adjacent to the highway resulting in too much noise, but beyond that the service and food was good. I had a typical Costa Rican dish Chifrijo del Punta - chicarrones (pork) and frijoles (beans) served with tomato, avocado and nachos over rice. Gayle then had a vegetarian pizza - just the right size while I had a calzone. After the filling Chifrijo del Punta I really didn't need any of the calzone - good thing I didn't order the large. I ended up taking three-quarters of the calzone home.
It was then back to Casa Mapache where we turned in for the night.
Mundo Milo's pool. Big iguana high in a tree on a thin branch.
From a distance an iguana in a tree.
Our Persian room (#4) - large windows to the outdoors and an authentically themed terrace area.
Fried eggs and Gallo Pinto - a great start to any day. Our most wonderful server - Ariani.
Along with Michiel, our host Lieke.
Pizza and Pasta, Mundo Milo's adopted cats.
With Lieke and Michiel.
The view from our room across the pool at Casa Mapache.
We ate dinner ar nearby Punto Trenquilo. I started with Chifrijo del Punto - a typical Costa Rican dish named for the first syllables of the main ingredients - chicarrones (pork) and frijoles (beans). Gayle then had a Vegetariana pizza with tomatoes, black olives, onions, mushrooms and oregano while I had a Calzone filled with tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham, mushrooms, an egg, olive oil and oregano. Even the medium calzone was way too much food after the filling Chifrijo.
February 22, 2019 - Mundo Milo Eco Lodge (Junquillal)
This morning Gayle convinced me to go for an early walk to the beach. On the way we came across a troop of monkeys crossing the road on their monkey 'bridge' and then swinging, branch to branch through nearby trees. Some great shots, including a number of infants (baby monkeys).
We returned to the Lodge where we enjoyed breakfast and then another chat with Ionnis and Rena, two Greeks from Corfu who were traveling through Costa Rica.
Michiel had mentioned a fisherman with an 'adopted' crocodile at nearby Playa Blanca. Without much else to do we took a drive to see if we could find the crocodile, which we did. We found Ovidio, the fisherman who lived near an estuary where 'Lorenzo' and an offspring live. Lorenzo, perhaps 3 metres (10 feet) was quite responsive to Ovidio, coming ashore for him. Another fascinating nature experience.
After some time in the pool we returned to the beach just before sunset for our last night in Junquillal. There were no hatchlings today but once again a spectacular sunset. Then back to Mundo Milo for another great meal with wonderful service from Ariani.
Monkeys and crocodiles - another day of wildlife and nature.
A monkey bridge paced across the road, providing a means for the monkeys to safely cross.
Isn't this little infant - yes a baby monkey is known as an 'infant' - cute?
Monkeys near Mundo Milo Eco Lodge.
And another Howler monkey and her baby.
With Ioanns and Rena, two adventurous travelers from Corfu, Greece whom we met at Mundo Milo.
Dental work looks pretty good.
Videos of Lorenzo and Ovidio.
Lorenzo and Ovidio.
Open wide.
Perhaps a few of these signs in Halifax might address our traffic problems.
Portions of Junquillal beach and the Pacific ocean.
These gorgeous sunsets are becoming somewhat routine.
Dinner included a pumpkin soup, a nice piece of beef tenderloin, tagliatelle with vegetables and goat cheese, and an apple strudel with ice cream for dessert.
February 21, 2019 - Mundo Milo Eco Lodge (Junquillal)
After the disappointment of there being no turtle hatchlings yesterday we were hopeful there would be some today. But before a late day trip back to the beach the day started early for Gayle as she woke before sunrise. Having done so she had the good fortune to see a pygmy owl - a small pocket-sized owl. We then had a breakfast of one of the things we very much enjoy about Costa Rica - a serving of Gallo Pinto (rice and beans). The rest of the day was spent working on the travel blog, interspersed with dips in the pool.
. Late in the afternoon word began to spread that there were hatchlings today. We headed to the beach and the turtle sanctuary just before 5:00 pm and the release of the hatchlings. We arrived to find there were 83 newly hatched baby turtles about to be released for their journey to the sea. Volunteers of the Asociacion Vida Verdazul Turtle Conservation Centre first provided some education to the gathering crowd on the turtles that come ashore, the work of the conservation centre and the incubation periods for the various species of turtles. A line was then literally drawn in the sand behind which we stood as volunteers released the baby hatchlings. We all then watched as the baby's scurried down the beach towards the sea and the gorgeous sunset. It was a wonderful experience, one that we were fortunate to observe.
We returned to Mundo Milo for a what turned out to be another excellent meal. I started with a Ceviche servido con Chili-Guaro - white fish fillet marinated n lemon juice served with fresh coriander with Chili-Guaro after which I then enjoyed the Camarones grande a la plancha (grilled large shrimp) served with sweet chili sauce. Meanwhile Gayle had the Gado Gado, an Indonesian dish of steamed vegetables served with rice, a hard boiled egg covered with a tasty peanut sauce. We then finished our meal with a Panqueque delgado con lelado y salsa chocolate, a crepe filled with vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate.
Another great day, the highlight of course being the release of the turtle hatchlings.
Starting the day with a typical Costa Rican breakfast.
Birds regularly visit the open-air rancho style restaurant.
Our Persian themed room with its domed ceiling, Moroccan light fixture and Persian painted walls.
Palm trees, the ocean and a cloudless blue sky - perfection.
All along the beach are these inspirational signs.
A larger than average turtle.
Beautiful Junquillal beach and the Pacific ocean.
Another stretch of Junquillal beach and a hermit crab.
While walking the beach Gayle saw a flock of pelicans in the distance. They approached and flew over us in formation.
The Asociacion Vida Verdazul Turtle Conservation Centre and its volunteers work to improve the odds of the hatchlings reaching the ocean in order for a shot at survival.
A bucket of new Olive Ridley hatchlings.
Hatchlings on their way to the sea.
Another video, this one of the hatchlings making their way to the sea as the sun sets over the Pacific.
Here I come - the hatchlings were two inches, more or less.
More new hatchlings on their way to the sea.
Yet another memorable sunset.
Ceviche as an appetizer... ... and Camarones (shrimp) as my main course.
... and for dessert .... not really but this is a real spider perhaps only an inch to two from end to end - one can do magic with a telephoto lens and subsequent cropping.
Feb 20, 2019 - La Colina Pura Vista to Mundo Milo Eco Lodge (Junquillal)
Another moving day. After a filling breakfast we said our good-byes to Corrine, Laurent and Joe, their Cocker Spaniel - get it Joe Cocker. Our route took us further south (still on the gravel road) and then across the peninsula to Jicaral and finally paved roads. It was then a fairly easy drive, although it is a challenge to keep to frequent 60 kph and often 40 kph limits - the common speed limits here in Costa Rica. We passed by Nicoya and on through Santa Cruz before heading back out to the coast to Junquillal and Mundo Milo Eco Lodge.
After Michiel checked us in to our Persian room he made us aware of the possibility of turtle hatchlings being released to the sea. Just prior to sunset we went the short distance to Junquillal beach where we found a few volunteers working at the Asociacion Vida Verdazul Turtle Conservation Centre, a group that promotes conservation and re-population of sea turtle species native to the Pacific coastline. Unfortunately no young turtles hatched today leaving us heading back to Mundo Milo.
One of the nice aspects of Mundo Milo is the on-site restaurant. The food, and service turned out to be excellent. I had the day's special - a large blackened tuna steak in a mango salsa, after an Ensalada de queso cabra con remoloche, acietunas y nueces (a goat cheese salad with pickled beets, black olives and walnuts). Gayle, being not hungry had an Ensalade verde con vegetales frescas, aquacate y palmito (mixed greens with fresh vegetables, avocado and palm hearts). It was a tasty meal in a nice casual open-air restaurant.
Corrine, Joe and Laurent. ... and the two of us with the ocean as a back drop.
It doesn't look that long but Playa Miguel is 8 km of isolated beach.
The Golden Silk Cotton Tree and one of the cotton pods.
A couple of the colourful trees along our route.
Playa Juanquillal, another beach where the turtles come ashore to lay their eggs.
Volunteers at the turtle sanctuary.
An interesting goat cheese salad. A large blackened tuna steak with mango salsa.
February 19, 2019 - La Colina Pura Vista (Playa San Miguel)
There is not a lot to do at Playa San Miguel and La Colina Pura Vista which means another day of not doing a lot. After a relaxing afternoon, with a number of visits to the pool, we returned for a walk on the beach and a drink at Locos Cocos while watching another vibrant sunset.
We returned to La Colina Pura Vista where we enjoyed yet another dip in the pool before seeing a bit of wildlife, including a huge iguana on the wall and then after dark an armadillo.
For dinner Laurent prepared a delicious lasagna (not exactly French but really good) and a interesting salad for Gayle. For dessert we enjoyed another tasty banana flambe - actually in anticipation of how good we expected dessert to be we each ordered the same dessert, a rarity.
For us this was a perfect vacation day - a great start to the day with a great breakfast, great weather (sun and heat), a great pool, a great walk on the beach, and a great sunset. Perfect.
A nice bowl of fruit to start the day. Hammocks and lounge chairs surround the pool.
La Colina Pura Vista's perfectly positioned infinity pool.
As everywhere there were lots of birds in the area. 'Joe' the 'Cocker' Spaniel.
The resident iguana.
And the resident armadillo.
The wide expansive Playa San Miguel and yet another vibrant sunset.
Gayle's salad and my lasagna.
Another bananas flambe - our delicious dessert.
February 18, 2019 - La Colina Pura Vista (Playa San Miguel)
There is not a lot to do at La Colina Pura Vista or Playa San Miguel, which for us is a good thing. We started the day with a tasty breakfast including lots of fresh fruit, fresh juice, delicious freshly baked bread with jams, ham, cheese, some yoghurt and an egg, of course with coffee.
After breakfast we continued our chat with Kai and Nick. For a couple so young they have enjoyed a wealth of experiences. This trip was their honeymoon - six weeks in Costa Rica from the south (Osa) to the north soon coming to an end, after which they are off to Cuba for three weeks - renting a car, staying in home stays etc. A very nice couple.
We spent the rest of the morning and afternoon relaxing on the property, enjoying a number of swims. Laurent and Corrine left early afternoon to visit friends in Samara. Late afternoon we went down to Playa San Miguel to check out the beach and find a recommended restaurant - Locos Cocos. The beach actually stretches for eight kms with hardly a sole on it. A beautiful wide expansive beach, although like others it has waves and undertows / rip currents that precluded swimming for us.
We easily found Locos Cocos, Henner, the guy in charge and his dog Peluche. This is not a Michelin star establishment - the kitchen is in a shipping container - but provides good food in a spectacular setting just off the beach, with views across the water and wonderful sunsets. The ambience is very informal and friendly. I started with the ceviche, served with plantain chips after which I had squid / calamari in garlic and oil served with a pineapple chutney, rice and a nice selection of vegetables. Gayle had a vegetarian Quesadilla with french fries. Then for dessert we shared a pineapple flambe with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. A pineapple smoothie and a couple of beers made for an enjoyable meal in a wonderful setting
Freshly baked French bread, jams, fruit, fresh juice, plus yoghurt, eggs, ham and cheese for breakfast.
If you put a swing by a bar someone is bound to use it.
Kai and Nick.
Our cabina.
A comfortable shaded lounge chair and a long pool with a great view to the ocean.
Happy happy on Playa San Miguel.
Ripening coconuts.
We will always take ambiance, view and sunset over fine white linen table clothes.
Fresh pineapple juice at sunset. Locos Cocos kitchen - in a shipping container.
The setting sun touching the sea.
Playa San Miguel certainly challenges for the best sunsets.
Henner ... and his dog Peluche (teddy bear)
Dinner - cheviche with plantains, quesidillas, squid with pineapple chutney, rice and and a salad, and pineapple flambe with ice cream and chocolate drizzle.
Feb 17, 2019 - Hotel Luna Azul to La Colina Pura Vista (Playa San Miguel)
Another moving day. After breakfast we packed up and left Hotel Luna Azul for a two to three hour drive, at a maps.google average speed of only 31 kph due to the condition of the gravel roads. This assumes no stops which of course is never the case with photos, monkeys, a water crossing, Samara and a direction oops near Punta Islata.
Shortly after leaving we noticed someone stopped - our first monkey encounter of the day. Then approx. 10 km south of Samara we encountered some water. We saw a taxi go through so figured there shouldn't really be much problem with our high-clearance vehicle, and there wasn't. However another couple with a only a car decided otherwise, no doubt frustrating after having driven 25 km on these dirt roads just to turn around.
We stopped for a short time in Samara,
checking out the beach and buying a few supplies. It was then on our way
past Playa Carillo and further south. Unfortunately we missed a sign to
Punta Islita which took us a bit out of our way but the silver lining was
another troop of monkeys, these quite visible in a tree sparse of leaves.
Back on the right road we continued south past a number of nice looking beaches
to Playa San Miguel, a gorgeous isolated barren 8 km beach and La Colina Pura
Vista, high up on a hill overlooking the coastline.
La
Colina Pura Vista is small with only two cabinas, run by a French couple -
Corrine and Laurent. We enjoyed the pool and thanks to Corinne's sharp
eye saw a few white-faced Capuchin monkeys, a coatimundi and an armadillo. After a refreshing and relaxing dip in the infinity pool we ate dinner prepared by Laurent. The meal tonight was a mushroom (and chicken for me and other guests) risotto, with tiramisu (with a cocoa topping) and a half baked chocolate 'bomb' cake for dessert.
The others staying were a young British couple, Nick and Kai, nearing the end of a six-week honeymoon in Costa Rica, with another three weeks in Cuba to follow. We had a great chat with them about our respective travels.
As soon as I stepped out the door to head up to breakfast I was greeted by this HUGE lizard on the tree right outside our room.
A vulture ...
A hawk...
... and it appears they get along - both the vulture and the hawk sharing a branch.
Oobla-dee and Oo-bla da guarding over Gayle. Colourful flowers around the lodge.
Highway 160 - well not exactly a highway. Note the speed
hump on the right, somewhat redundant given the dirt road already
seriously limits one's speed.
Every once in a while we came across these flowering trees.
The first monkeys of the day, a few kms after leaving Playa Azul.
The one questionable crossing, perhaps 10 km north of Samara.
Playa Samara ... and Playa Carillo, a few kms south.
Monkeys, monkeys and more monkeys. Note the baby on the the back of the monkey on the right.
The view from La Colina Pura Vista across San Miguel beach to the ocean.
Another beach along our drive.
Not great photos but a white-faced Capuchin monkey (otherwise we have only heard and seen howlers) and a coatimundi.
Ho hum, another stunning sunset. Chicken (none for Gayle) and mushroom risotto.
Tiramasu, with a cocoa topping ... ... and a half baked chocolate bomb.
February 16, 2019 - Hotel Luna Azul (Playa Luna Azul) and Playa Ostional
Today too was a pretty much stay at the hotel , relaxing day, although we did go to Playa Ostional. The beach of Ostional is the location for a rarely-seen biological
wonder. In rainy season (September - not now) the week before new moon, hundreds - and
sometimes hundreds of thousand sea turtles come to one specific mile of
beach at Ostional to dig their eggs into the black, volcanic sand. Turtles nest at Ostional year round, but peak time is during the rainy
season. From August through December arribadas (when the turtles come ashore en mass to lay their eggs) occur regularly once,
sometimes even twice a month, and the numbers of nesting females are in
the range of hundreds of thousands as opposed to tens of thousands for
the dry season months. Usually the arribadas occur during the darkest
nights: a few days before the new moon, when the majority of turtles
arrive between 8 pm and 4 am.
Early afternoon of the dry season we saw, as expected, count em ... zero (0) turtles. We did however see plenty of pelicans diving for fish along with a flock that flew overhead. The ocean in this area is generally too risky to swim in due to the rip currents., and being hot we returned to Luna Azul and the pool.
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner - plump gnocchi for Gayle, a wonderful beef ternderloin in a delicious pepper sauce for me and then a fantastic dessert - bananas flambe with ice cream in an amazingly tasty sauce. Excellente.
The parrot returned (well we really don't know if it is the same parrot) for a better photo.
The Luna Azul pool ... being guarded by Oobla-dee and Oobla-da.
Pelicans 'fishing' at Playa Ostional.
Playa Ostional.
And then a flock of pelicans flew overhead.
Our server Roberto.
Gayle's gnocchi.
A simply delicious beef tenderloin with a wonderful pepper sauce - superb!
Simple but perhaps one of the best tastiest desserts we have ever had - a perfect bananas flambe.
February 15, 2019 - Hotel Luna Azul (Playa Luna Azul)
Today was a very relaxing (aka lazy) day. We spent all day at Hotel Luna Azul, starting with a nice breakfast, time by the pool, work on the travel blog, more time at the pool, an afternoon drink, more time at the pool, a nap in the lounge chair, and dinner.
Gayle enjoyed the Fettuccini Primavera and I a delicious serving of grilled shrimp (camarones) for dinner after which we split a Cafe Rica Luna Azul. a coffee infused ice cream smoothie - very tasty.
And that's it. Perhaps the shortest daily report but we didn't really do much other than enjoy another perfect day of weather and lots of relaxation. Life is very good
Shrubs and flowers on our walk from our room to the pool / restaurant.
Tough to get a good photo of a parrot but here is at least something.
A vulture by the pool.
Our balcony looking out across the countryside. The cottages and grounds of Luna Azul.
Lush tropical vegetation around the restaurant and pool.
Colourful flowers ... .. and very happy to be cooling off in the pool.
The sunsets just keep getting better.
Our friendly pool vulture and a toad near the pool at dinner - wildlife everywhere.
Tonight's menu. The Cafe Rica Luna Azul dessert.
Fettuccine Primavera. Camarones (shrimp) al ajillo.
Feb 14, 2019 - Casitas Tenorio (Bijagua) to Hotel Luna Azul (Playa Luna Azul)
We decided to take the 7:00 am farm tour to start the day, and very glad we did. Jonathan took us a short way up the hill to Casitas Tenorio's farm where we saw the rabbits (and bunnies), guinea pigs, horse, calf, cow (that we all had the opportunity to milk), sheep and chickens (who produce the fresh eggs we enjoy at breakfast). A very worth-while tour for those who love farm animals. And as a bonus we came across a cool lizard on our way back.
We then saw Wilmer placing the day's bananas in the trees, an invitation for the birds to come and enjoy their breakfast as we ate ours - today it was pancakes.
Casitas Tenorio is owned and run by Donald Varela Soto and Pip Kelly Varela, a Costa Rican / Australian couple. Casitas Tenorio B&B is more than just a place to stay – it’s an invitation to experience Costa Rican life as part of the community. It is a working dairy farm, hence the farm tour where they grow their own food and are working to regenerate the forest on areas of the farm. Casitas Tenorio B&B is a perfect destination for anyone who wants an insight into rural living in Costa Rica. We saw lots of birds, flora and fauna – on site, and in the surrounding area. Although we didn't, as it is a few hours hike which I concluded my knees likely could not handle Casitas Tenorio is nearby to Rio Celeste ( a river and lake known for its uniquely coloured blue waters) located in the Volcano Tenorio National Park. As documented yesterday our opportunity to visit and deliver materials to the children enhanced our experience. Where Pippa is a volunteer in the school and community, knowing everyone at the school, it was wonderful to see her interact with the teachers and children first hand..
We left on what was to be a lengthy drive back to Liberia and then out to Guanacaste province and the coast of the Nicoya Peninsula. The last hour plus was on a gravel road where one could not drive any more than 30 kph to 40 kph, bumping along all the way.
Hotel Luna Azul is an small eight room facility with a nice pool and excellent meals. After settling in to our room that has a nice balcony overlooking the forest and an outdoor shower, we enjoyed a dip in the pool, with gorgeous views of the sun setting over the Pacific Ocean. We shared an Ensalada Aquacate y Palmito (with avocado and palm hearts), with Gayle then having Gnocci Vegetariano and me the Polo Thailandaise - a chicken dish with pineapple and Thai sauce. Gayle finished the evening with a Creme Brule.
On our way to breakfast / the farm tour we noticed a number of monkeys in nearby trees.
Wilmer putting out the day's bananas for the birds (including these oropendolas and this toucan among others), who quickly took advantage of the opportunity to enjoy their breakfast.
Jonathan, who was about to be our farm tour guide, receiving a few beanies from Pippa.
After a very short walk from the lodge we arrived at the farm, first seeing a number of rabbits, including a few very small bunnies.
There are lots of chickens.
Fresh multi-coloured eggs that will be included with breakfast.
Swarming guinea pigs when provided some food. The cutest calf.
The horse.
Milking the cow.
A lizard on a tree ... ... and some of the sheep.
Of course we couldn't not have a couple more bird photos.
Another of the impressive murals in the lodge and a toucan Christmas ornament.
Pancakes this morning for breakfast.
Kira, Donald, Ellie and Pippa at Casitas Tenorio B&B.
A lonely tree in a field along our drive with the mountains and rain-forest clouds in the distance.
Along Highway 6 from Bijagua we noted these cattle being herded by a cowboy.
Sunset at Hotel Luna Azul.
An Ensalada y Aquacate y Palmito (with avocado and palm hearts).
Gnocci Vegetariana for Gayle.
February 13, 2019 - Casitas Tenorio (Bijagua)
Just as we were getting ready for breakfast Pippa mentioned one of the staff had noticed a couple of sloths on the trail. So off we all march and indeed there were two sloths sleeping in trees. Also saw a few monkeys near the lodge - all before breakfast.
We again had the prime breakfast table for viewing the birds. It is always enjoyable to experience so much wildlife close-up while having breakfast.
It was then off to the Escuela Bijagua where, with two other guests - a fellow from Toronto and another from Sweden - we went to deliver the beanie babies and other supplies provided by guests who had also read the appeal on the Casitas Tenorio website to bring whatever one can to donate through the Pack For A Purpose program.
Education is very important in Costa Rica with a 97.8% literacy rate, i.e. those > 15 who can read and write. In 1948 Costa Rica abandoned its military with expenditures previously used for arms
and their standing army redirected towards, amongst others,
education. It is included in the constitution that the government
allocates a minimum of 8% of GDP annually to education. This is one of
the reasons why today Costa Rica boasts the most advanced and highest
quality education system in the region.
Education is generally free in Costa Rica, and every citizen is obligated to receive education by law. Thus, the literacy rate is one of the highest of all Latin American countries; for youth between the ages of 15 and 24. In a report by the World Economic Forum in 2015, the Costa Rican education system was also ranked highest in Latin America.
Primary education is compulsory between the ages of 6 and 13. Secondary education leaves pupils two choices of specification: academic (5 years) and technical (6 years) schools. Both types of institutions enable students to acquire high school diplomas, which qualify them for education at universities.
The Ministry of Education introduced programs to guarantee widespread knowledge in computer sciences and English as a second language (ESL) to keep the Costa Rican youth and workforce on par with international standards. ESL in particular is a main focus. Including both public and private schools, 85% of students at the primary level attend English classes throughout Costa Rica.
We had a wonderful experience distributing the beanies we brought and other supplies (toothbrushes, pencils etc.) donated by others to a primary class at Escuela Bijagua. Pippa introduced us to the teacher after which we went around handing out the beanies. So many happy faces and smiles.
After checking out a craft 'shop' (actually a shipping container) near Pizzeria Barrigon, where we bought a few small things we took a gravel road in the direction of Volcan Miravelles. After a while it doesn't make sense to turn back yet at the same time we had no idea where the road would emerge. One bad decision had us go a few kms out of our way to a dead end but it was a nice drive through rolling terrain, past a pineapple farm and a number of free-ranging cows along the road. We eventually hooked up with the main road (I was confident we would) albeit 17 km north-east of Bijagua. We returned to Pizzeria Barrigon where we had a couple of fruit juices and a plate of fries before heading back to Casitas Tenorio where we relaxed (aka napped) in the afternoon. For dinner we went to a nearby lodge to eat at the Hummingbird Cafe, nicely situated amongst the trees of the rain-forest. I had the Camarones al ajillo (marinated garlic shrimp), with weirdly was accompanied by a baked potato. and then we each had an excellent Enchilada, mine with chicken. A watermelon juice and a beer to drink. Then back to Casitas Tenorio to end the day.
Photos are not great but even before breakfast we saw and troop of monkeys and a staff member noticed a couple of sloths, taking us back on the trail to see them.
Traditional Gallo Pinto the first morning and scrambled eggs the second - always with a nice selection of fruit.
Birds, birds, birds - everywhere.
More (we believe) tanagers.
One of the schools in Bijagua.
The primary class.
Happy children with their beanie babies and toothbrushes - all screaming 'whiskey'.
The primary teacher with Flaky, her class and Gayle and me.
Some of the children in the primary class.
The children appeared very respectful and followed directions well - hopefully not just for the 'guests'.
Another class of older children.
More students.
Some of the attractive rolling Costa Rican countryside.
Actually this was a side 'road' we mistakenly got ourselves onto. Lots of wildlife, ok just cows along the drive.
Flowers along our drive.
A wall of boots (and flowers). One of the many wonderful wall murals at our B&B.
Pippa hard at work. Beautiful table flower arrangement.
Lounge area.
A baked potato with garlic shrimp - not exactly the combination I was expecting.
Delicious enchilada - mine chicken and Gayle's of course vegetarian.
February 12, 2019 - Casitas Tenorio (Bijagua)
For those not interested in birds, beanies and monkeys you can skip over today's post.
As we expect will be common on the day after arrival we did not leave the Casitas Tenorio property today. We started the day with the typical Gallo Pinto breakfast overlooking the rain forest and a station of bananas provided for the wildlife. One could sit for hours (and we probably did) mesmerized by the activities of the various species of birds, and one squirrel. In the background could be heard the howls of the monkeys. Although there was a document identifying the birds we neglected to look carefully at it. As a result there are a few shown below that we don't know what they are, but nevertheless they enjoyed the opportunity to feast on the bananas and we enjoyed the opportunity to see them.
We chatted with Pippa and other guests and before we knew it the morning was gone. Casitas Tenorio is a promoter of Pack For A Purpose, an organization that encourages travelers to bring supplies to countries such as Costa Rica. As some of you may know I had a somewhat extensive collection of beanie babies, buddies etc. We had some room so decided to bring down a few bags to be distributed to the school in Bijagua and staff here at Casitas Tenorio. Staff were very excited with the large display that filled one of the breakfast tables. Pippa is arranging for us to deliver them, along with other supplies brought by other guests, to the local school tomorrow. Stay tuned.
After some time relaxing (aka napping) in our room we took a stroll on the trail through the property. We spent some time at the small mirador (look off) just off the trail, admiring the scenery of the volcanoes on both sides of us. Not only did we hear them but Gayle spotted a troop of monkeys in the trees along the trail. Unfortunately no sloths, at least none that we could spot.
We had left over pizza which we ate in our room along with a watermelon we had bought at a roadside stand.
We'll start with the Oropendola.
The collared Aracari, a member of the toucan family.
Another Oropendola and a squirrel.
A number of colourful birds some of which unfortunately we have no idea what they are.
We believe a type of tanager.
Blue gray tanagers.
A couple of white-throated magpie jays.
Possibly a clay-coloured thrush, the national bird of Costa Rica.
Another blue tanager.
The majestic Black ( or sometimes called Chestnut) mandibled toucan.
The supply of beanies we brought with us, and this after having given a number away to Alejandro and Diego at Heliconias, and Laura at Rest. Barrigon.
Keilyn and Lorena with a few of the beanies.
Zaida, me and another staff member of with the beanies.
There is a nature trail here at Casitas Tenorio where one is guaranteed to see a cow.
But monkeys are less guaranteed. However Gayle spotted this troop of seven to ten.
... and one here in a tree that I was able to photograph through the leaves.
Feb 11, 2019 - Heliconias Nature Lodge (HNL) to Bijagua (Casitas Tenorio)
An interesting day. Unfortunately Alejandro was not at breakfast so we didn't have the opportunity to say goodbye at that time ... but wait. After a walk to the far end of the property in search of sloths and toucans (we did not see any) we packed and headed out. We got about 4 km down the road, took some photos of a pineapple stand and were about to fill up with fuel when we realized we forgot an ice pack that I had for my knee. It was only an ice gel pack but we decided to go back and very fortunate we did. As we were returning our vehicle started to struggle and just as we got back to HNL it died. In fact we were fortunate we were able to coast it off the road in neutral. But fortunately we were at the entrance to HNL. We walked up to reception where we ran into Alejandro (and his family) and Diego. After picking up the ice pack we went back to the vehicle where Alejandro gave it a try with no different result. It simply would not get into any gear. Then Alejandro called Alamo who said they would send someone out. An hour and a half later this fellow arrives, also can not get the vehicle to move, loaded our bags in his vehicle and took us to La Fortuna, fortunately in the direction we were going. At least we got to say goodbye to Alejandro.
Of course the whole thing took over three hours (it would have been considerably more had we not made it back to HNL) until we were back on the road again to drive a couple of hours north to Bijagua.
The drive to Bijagua was pretty straight along Highway 4 past Pastate and San Rafael and then to the Parc National Volcan Tenorio. A somewhat hilly, twisty road but recently paved making it a pleasant drive.
We eventually found our way to the town of Bijagua and Casitas Tenorio where we were met and checked in by Darcy - her first day on the job and she did just fine. As Casitas Tenorio does not serve dinner we went into town to Restaurant Barrigon for pizza and then back to our casitas to listen to the birds and monkeys as we went to sleep.
Gayle and Alejandro.
Pods of seeds (being attacked by bees on the left) of the bamboo trees growing on the property.
The 'deluxe' tree house in the mango tree.
And our more modest tree house.
A blossoming tree.
The pool through some ginger plants.
Leaning against the tree of our tree house.
Mangos.
... bananas and plantains.
Bananas.
Pineapples growing at our Nature Lodge. Pineapples being sold on the roadside.
The blue waters of Rio Celeste.
If there was a competition for towel art we may have found our winners.
Pizza night in Bijagua - Margarita (left) for Gayle and Superma (right) for me.
And Laura took a nice photo of the two of us.
February 10, 2019 - Heliconias Nature Lodge and Tabacon thermal springs
Today was spent at the Tabacon Thermal Resort and Spa. About 15 minutes east of La Fortuna (45 minutes from Heliconias Nature Lodge) the thermal springs are fed by Arenal Volcano.
Arenal Volcano measures 1,633 metres (5,358 ft) high and is conically shaped with a crater of 140 metres (460 ft) in diameter. Arenal is considered 'young' as far as volcanoes are concerned, estimated to be less than 7,500 years old. The volcano was dormant for hundreds of years with minor activity, covered by dense vegetation. Then in 1968 it erupted unexpectedly, destroying the small town of Tabacon with 87 fatalities. The volcano continued to erupt until 2010 since when it has been dormant. We visited Tabacon in both 1995 and 2007, enjoying the sight of the lava flowing down the side of the volcano - quite a sight unfortunately not experienced this trip.
Tabacon's story is the one of a nature lover that became a legend in Arenal. In the late 1980s Costa Rican born Jaime Mikowski fell in love with a property at the base of the majestic Arenal Volcano, where a stream of hot springs ran through a marsh and grasslands. He convinced the local owners to sell him a share of the company that owned the land and spent the next few months persuading friends to invest with him on a wellness spa concept developed around the idea of a natural encounter. In January 1991, the original Tabacon pools and restaurant complex closed for a complete make-over, which took more than two years. The project aimed to reforest the existing pastures that surrounded the pools and restaurant. The property is stunning, providing an opportunity to relax either just in the thermal hot springs or at the spa.
A day pass is $85 (US$) each - in our opinion well worth it. The pass includes a very nice buffet dinner. We both particularly enjoyed this evening's pizza evening and for me the ceviche station (a seafood dish
typically made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices, such as lemon
or lime, and spiced with ajÃ, chili peppers or other seasonings
including chopped onions, salt, and cilantro). We arrive early afternoon, enjoying a number of hours in the springs, broke for dinner after which we returned for another hour plus before returning to Heliconias Nature Lodge.
Colourful flowers throughout the Nature Lodge - no thoughts of snow here.
Arenal volcano, the source of the hot springs flowing through Tabacon.
Tabacon Thermal Resort and Spa - a great place to spend a day.
The 'river' cascades down the hillside, through a number of attractive sculptured pools.
Shower time at Tabacon.
Very soothing - like bath water, reminding us of the waters of Thailand.
Nothing like a refreshing afternoon in the thermal springs.
The gardens are brought to life by vibrant flowers.
More of the lush Tabacon gardens with interesting red bamboo.
A component of the buffet was the Ceviche station, with squid, tuna, cucumber, sweet pepper and spices used to make a bowl of ceviche.
Preparing the ceviche.
Paella.
We regret not getting a photo of the excellent pizza beyond this on Gayle's plate.
Feb 9, 2019 - Heliconias Nature Lodge, walking dogs ... and Gayle's birthday
Today is an anniversary of Gayle's birth. We tried to get tickets to Tabacon hot springs but they were sold out (we were able to get reservations for tomorrow). The day started with another of Gayle's favourite breakfasts - Gallo Pinto.
Searching for something to do Gayle came across the nearby (30 minutes to La Fortuna) Costa Rica Dog Rescue & Adoption Centre. Founded by Scott Alan Bradly, who after moving from California to Costa Rica 10 years ago constantly found himself taking in stray dogs. Ultimately he found himself forming an organization to take in street dogs of La Fortuna and then beyond - throughout Cost Rica. With 13 dogs of
his own, Scott is dedicated to helping care for homeless street dogs. The
mission of Costa Rica Dog Rescue & Adoption is to help rescue, care,
and place homeless dogs into permanent loving homes. Dogs have been 'homed' in both Los Angeles and Toronto. The Centre has rescued and re-homed over 200 dogs over the past six years. When dogs are found (or dropped off on the doorstep) they are
usually malnourished, have fleas and ticks and many times other
ailments that go along with street living. All it takes is love, food,
and some medicine to turn them into healthy, loving dogs, as evidenced by the four we walked.
Currently there are more or less 90 dogs and and another 10 puppies at the Centre which welcomes volunteers to walk them. We thought this would be a good way to spend a couple of hours. We showed up, received a description/tour of the operation and given Lassie, Negro, Shakira and Bonita to walk. A challenging (at least for my knees) walk up a gravel road gave the dogs a bit of exercise. We returned after an hour plus to a refreshing smoothie.
It was a very enjoyable experience.
For a change we had a late afternoon meal at Restaurante Tequicia just outside La Fortuna where we enjoyed a fresh pineapple juice (me) and a huge pineapple Margarita (Gayle) - after all it is her birthday. Our meals were very traditional, with huge servings - for Gayle a tipical Casado, in her case vegetarian and for me Cazuelita de chicharrones, or fried pork casserole with yuca, plantain and a corn flour tortilla.
We then returned to Heliconias Nature Lodge where Gayle was surprised by a birthday cake - I had mentioned to Alejandro after breakfast that it was her birthday and to my surprise he arranged a cake - showing you what a caring family operation this is.
All in all a good day.
Happy happy as Gayle begins an anniversary day of her birth.
A somewhat rare view of the peak of Arenal volcano, more times than not the cone is hidden by clouds.
Pejiballe, technically a fruit but used as a hot condiment used in cooking.
Papayas.
A couple of smoothies after our walk with the dogs.
Some of the colourful flowers seen along our walk.
Lassie - so easy going and friendly.
Gayle and the puppies.
Melissa, one of the workers at the dog rescue center and the founder and owner Scott.
Gayle with one of the puppies and me the four dogs we walked.
Gayle with all four of the dogs - from left to right Negro (orange collar); Lassie (can't see it but a green collar); Shakira (in the red collar); Bonita (pink) and another dog that just followed us along off leash. Look at the smile on Gayle's face!
We ate at a small restaurant Tiquicia just outside La Fortuna. Nothing fancy but a great meal at a very decent price.
A HUGE pineapple birthday Margarita for Gayle.
Cazuelita de chicharrones.
... and a fresh pineapple juice for me.
Vegetariano Casado.
I may have mentioned to Alejandro that today was Gayle's birthday. He may have mentioned it to his dad and voila here we have the restaurant singing Happy Birthday as Gayle is presented with a cake. A perfect example of what a friendly family run place Heliconias Nature Lodge is.
Happy Birthday Gayle.
February 8, 2019 - Heliconias Nature Lodge
Today we did not leave the property. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, each ordering the traditional Costa Rican Gallo Pinto (mixed rice with beans scrambled eggs, cheese and fried plantains). Gayle then wandered the property, seeing a number of birds while I ... napped. The afternoon was spent relaxing by the pool where I may have ... fallen asleep. Life is good.
It was then down to the restaurant / bar for 'happy hour' during which I worked on the travel blog. We again ate dinner at Heliconias. Gayle had the Traditional Arroz con Verduras and I the special of the night - a tomato stuffed with chicken. baby potatoes and a squash 'stew', along with a vanilla/coconut flan for dessert.
The weather has been nice without being overly hot. Intermittent clouds - at times sunny, at others not, temperatures in the mid to high 20s and a nice breeze.
Just a quiet, relaxing day - perfect.
A map of the north-west corner of Costa Rica. We landed in Liberia and drove to Heliconias Nature Lodge around the north and east side of Arenal Lake. Although only 159 kms per maps.google it is a slow go with roads, while well paved being generally twisty. And then there was the paving delay. Speed limits are generally lower than in Canada, the default being 80 kph, but often 60 kph and sometimes down to 40 kph, or even 25 kph in school zones.
The ranch style restaurant. Alejandro, our very friendly host / server.
The typical Gallo Pinto Costa Rican breakfast. ... and a plate of fruit and homemade bread.
A traditional Costa Rican cart form the town of Sarchi.
A couple of the many colourful ginger (heliconia family) flowers throughout the property.
The Heliconias pool and a local 'crocodile'.
Birds building a nest in the full moon Japanese maple by the pool.
The carambola (star fruit) tree just outside our cabin. The reason it is a 'tree house'.
A little work on the blog. Just relaxing on our balcony.
Happy Hour (well two hours) - two for one; first Tequila Sunrises and then Limonada Electrica (with curacao).
A plate of Heliconias Nachos. Traditional Arroz con Verduras.
The 'special' of the day - a chicken stuffed tomato with baby potatoes and a squash stew, along with a vanilla/coconut flan for dessert.
February 7, 2019 - Toronto to Liberia to La Fortuna (Heliconias Nature Lodge)
A very long day. With a 7:20 am flight the alarm was set for 3:45 am. After coffee and muffins (thanks Steve and Wendy) we were off to the airport, arriving at 5:00 am. The 4 1/2 hour flight left a little late but made up time, landing a bit before noon.
We picked up our vehicle - a 4x4 which is pretty much necessary in Costa Rica - without any problems and were soon on our way for what was supposed to be a three hours of driving. A few photo stops and a quick shop for a few groceries added some time but it was the > 1 hour stop for the repaving of a one-lane bridge that really messed up the drive. Being a one-lane bridge traffic was stopped in both directions. While waiting Gayle did see a toucan. I on the other hand did not as I was napping. When we eventually did get going I counted 109 vehicles still waiting in the other direction (at least our direction went first).
The roads are much better than our previous visits to the area (1995 and 2007) but still narrow and twisty, albeit scenic along the east side of Arenal Lake. Unfortunately the delay resulted in us not reaching our lodging until after dark. The last half hour, on a smaller road, was challenging but we arrived safe and sound.
After a tour of the property and settling in to our 'tree house' it was off to dinner at the Nature Lodge's restaurant. A nice ranch style restaurant we enjoyed patacones, fried plantains with pureed beans and melted cheese. Gayle had a traditional black bean soup while I a filet of chicken with mushrooms accompanied by some delicious potatoes and fresh vegetables from the on-site garden/greenhouse.
And then is was straight to bed.
Every few kms along the Inter-continental Highway (1) are these fruit stands.
Garlic, plantains and other local produce.
We stopped at one of the stands where I bought a watermelon.
Typical Costa Rica cows - white with the 'camel' humps.
The leather seat of our rocking chairs. The towel artwork never gets old.
The first Margarita ... ... and a Guanabana (Soursop) smoothie.
Patacones (fried plantains) with beans and cheese. Sopa Negro (black bean soup)
February 6 / 7, 2019 - Halifax to Toronto to Liberia to La Fortuna
Our original booking had us leaving very (very) early in the morning, flying to Montreal and then on to Liberia. However subsequently the very (very) early morning flight to Montreal was cancelled leaving us having to overnight. Rather than Montreal we chose to fly through Toronto in order than we could visit with Steve, Wendy and Mike.