March 02, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  


Another day that started with us meeting Sally and Fraser - at times mistakenly referred to as Frazier - at breakfast.  As it turns out Sally and Fraser live within 20 miles or so of Penny and Brian near Bighton, England.  

Both couples were on their first trip to Costa Rica and loving it - the wildlife and the activities - kayaking, hikes, river boat tours, surfing etc. and towing a local whose vehicle broke down some 40 km to his home - well done Brian and Penny. 

Today was another relaxing day of watching (and taking photos of) butterflies, cooling off in the pool, and waiting for the monkeys who must have found food elsewhere as this afternoon they didn't show.

As it turned out we (Brian, Penny, Fraser, Sally, Gayle and me) all had dinner at the Matapalo Supper Club.  Being our last dinner before heading back to San Jose for our last night I was torn between again having a steak or going with the pasta with shrimp.  When in a dilemma the best solution is often compromise.  So I asked Daniel if I could go off-menu and have surf and turf - the pasta and in theory a small tenderloin, although Daniel's definition of 'small' might not be the same as others.  Gayle of course ordered the gnocchi again, knowing she wouldn't be able to finish but it is just too good to pass up.   Lots of delicious food.

Fraser and Sally were there when we arrived and Brian and Penny came in as we were finishing our meal.  We moved a couple of tables together and spent an enjoyable time finishing our meals and chatting about this and that.  This would never have happened had we stayed at and Air B&B. 

Before leaving we had a nice chat with Daniel and Darlenny before parting hugs and an indication we would likely be back again next year.


Ready for breakfast.                           Fraser and Sally.

                                  
                                      A few of the many butterflies around the Jardin de Los Monos pool.

A Gulf Fritillary.                                                                     Possibly an Ascia.


Possibly a King Swallowtail.


A banded peacock.


A red passionflower.                                                             Stachytarpheta jamaicenisis.


Just like clockwork the sun sets over the ocean and beach.  





Teddy on this way home at the end of the day.


Gayle returned to the delicious gnocchi with a rich mushroom and gorgonzola sauce.

As well we had one of the MSC's salads.


Ready to dig in to the surf (there were perhaps eight large shrimp in the pasta) and turf (a not so 'small' tenderloin).


Darlenny and Daniel.                                                Penny and Brian.


Fraser, Penny, Gayle, Norm, Brian and Sally at dinner - all smiles!



March 01, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  


Today had a few highlights
  • meeting two British couples Brian (originally from Kenya) and Penny, and Sally and Fraser (not Frazier)
  • the re-appearance of the monkeys
  • another wonderful sunset, accomodating the wedding on the beach, and
  • a return to the Matapalo Supper Club (MSC)
We met Brian over breakfast where we enjoyed a wonderful chat, learning of how much he was enjoying and appreciating the wildlife here in Costa Rica (it was his first trip), reminding him of his birthplace of Nairobe, Kenya back in the day - an environment now somewhat destroyed due to development.  Brian is a very interesting character - a lorry driver with story after story to tell.

We also met Sally and Fraser who coincidentally live within 20 miles or so of Penny and Brian near Brighton, England.  It too was their first trip to CR.

At times people ask us where we stay.  While it is fine to stay at resorts or Air BnBs we now exclusively stay at small boutique hotels, generally five to ten rooms (Jardin de Los Monos has six).  Often while admiring and photographing the animals - the birds, butterlies, sloths and monkeys here - we will meet other similarly minded travelers.  At times it is a quick chat in passing but at others there is a bit of a connection.  In this case all six of us ended up at the MSC tomorrow night (more tomorrow).

After another relaxing afternoon in and around the pool we did our standard after 5:00 pm activity - a stroll to the beach where we watched the locals, tourists, pelicans and sunset.  Today it was a wedding at a lodging right on the beach with the bride, groom and guests similarly enjoying the perfect evening.  Although we were at dinner for most of it the music (apparently quite noticeable) went to 10:00 pm at which time it promptly stopped as required by Costa Rican law.

For dinner it was again back to the MSC where Gayle enjoyed a 'small' (although we would tend to disagree) pizza with mushrooms, sweet pepper, olives, gorgonzola and freshly picked basil - we know as we saw Darlenny pick it from a plant near our table.  Norm could not resist the 14 oz. tenderloin with peppercorn sauce, the salad and German fried potatoes - exactly the same meal he had the first evening here.  

Near the end of our meal Brian and Penny entered to make a reservation for tomorrow night.  We ended up chatting with them for quite some time before heading back to Los Monos to bring an end to another perfect day.


Brian.                                                                                    A female Scarlet-Rumped (or Cherrie's) Tanager.


"Grab on, I'll help you up"                                                    "What big feet I have"


"Rest time."


Monkeys, monkeys and more monkeys.




"OK ok, so perhaps I'm not as cute as moma sloth." 


And finally a couple of videos of the monkeys jumping on the metal roof.


Wedding on the beach.


Horses strolling along the beach ... through the wedding.


Pelicans and more pelicans.


Another day and again another wonderful sunset, with palm trees and pelicans.


More sun; more pelicans.


Gayle's pizza with fresh (Darlenny picked) basil.  For Norm's meal see Feb 25th as it literally was a repeat.



February 28, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  

Before describing our day we need to back up to last night.  When we returned from our outing for dinner I found a piece of my mouse and its battery on our veranda floor.  The other part of the mouse was no where to be found.  Our only theory is that the monkeys were particularly brazen and mischiveous.  I admit it was a bit srange to ask Lettika if anyone found a mouse around their room.  Not the case but Teddy searched the grounds below our room and voila - success - he found the other piece of the mouse and it all works.  Don't leave your mouse, or anything else outside ... lesson learned.

The morning started with a great opportunity to photo the momma sloth near to the breakfast area of Jardin de Los Monos.  She was a bit more active than usual today.  Perhaps no more than four or five feet from us.  And I'm very pleased with the results based on the photos below.

After our sloth experience we enjoyed breakfast and then it was off to the pool where we photographed the  flowers and did our best to capture the butterflies and birds.

After an afternoon of work on our blogs and cooling off in the pool we waited for the monkeys but somewhat surprisingly they did not show up today.  Afterwards we headed to the beach where we admired another colourful sunset while watching clhildren playing and families gathered to also watch the sunset.

For dinner we returned to The Matapalo Supper Club (MSC) where Gayle had the Gnocchi with a creamy mushroom and gorgonzola sauce covered with parmesan.  The Gnocchi was absolutely delicious, and there was plenty of it - so much so that we took home half the serving, actually on the plate on which it was served given we will be returning tomorrow.  Given Daniel's German roots I decided to go with the bratwurst sausage, German potato salad and red cabbage.  Another great meal at the MSC.

And another great relaxing day here at Los Monos.


How cute is she?



Our momma sloth napping in a tree.

 
The evidence left by the mouse breaker.                          Teddy the mouse hunter was successful in his search. 


Breakfast today was Lettika's delicious toast, a simple omelette, ham, orange juice, a fruit shake and of course coffee.


Vegetation around the breakfast area.


Around the pool there are those who enjoy cooling off in it, and those who enjoy the nectar of the  flowers that grow around it


Lettika and Gier's family cat, who will only drink from the tap of the breakfast sink.


We can't say enough great things about Dama and Teddy - the staff here are Jardin de Los Monos.  Dama, who takes the 6:00 am bus each morning from around Quepos to arrive to make breakfast and then do housekeeping work always has a smile, as does Teddy, the man of many skills, one of which is banter and laughter.


Last year there was virtually nothing in the planter boxes.  The coffee plants have have grown amazingly over the past year.


Birds and flowers everywhere - a Great Kiskadee.                 Stachytarfeta urticufolia.      Bamboo orchid.


Bougainvillea.                        Torch ginger.                          Red ginger.                           Heliconia.


Pinwheel flower.                                                                  Red dahlia.
    

The sign says it all.                                                              The start of the sunset.


It is ineresting how many Tico (a colloquial term for a native of Costa Rica, also used to refer to the country as a whole, its culture and its traditional food) families are at the beach each night.


A local practicing his football and a fellow just admiring the sunset.


Another night and another gorgeous Costa Rican sunset.


Dinner at the Matapalo Supper Club.                                    A simple but large and nice salad.


Gayle's Gnocchi.                                                                  And Norm's sausage and German potato salad.



February 27, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  

As we expected we have settled in to a routine here at Jardin de Los Monos - up early; usually between 5:00 am and 6:00 am due to the sounds of the birds; work on our travel blogs before it gets too hot; down for breakfast and some sloth viewing; a late morning swim to cool off; back to the travel blogs; and then another swim.

This morning, in addition to Moma sloth and her baby in the tree within feet of the breakfast area Teddy showed us (we would never have seen it on our own) an opossum curled between two large leaves.  Yet more nature.

Today, with the Matapalo Supper Club again closed we found a Soda about 40 minutes away on the road up to San Isidro de le General.

The drive from Domincal up the mountain is fortunately paved but still very narrow and twisty.  Yet for the passenger it is very scenic (the driver needs to be consistently focused). 

We easily found Soda La Pena, located right on the road.  With only three tables it was full when we arrived but Mauro sat us at a huge table in the back.  It turned out to be quite good as the table was near a bird feeding perch with lots of fruit attracting a number of colourful native birds.  

We enjoyed a wonderful lunch, each having a smoothie (Norm soursop and Gayle pineapple) while sharing a bowl of gauacamole with excellent tortilla chips.  Gayle then had a vegetarian burrito while Norm the Hawaiian chicken with vegetables and fries.  All simple - except perhaps for the pineapple sauce on the chicken - and very good.

Mauro, our server, spent a considerable amount of time with us telling us about the many many birds that frequent the area and his plans to add a terrace to the west side of the house to provide tables that have vistas of the valley to the west and the sunset.  We were able to imagine how scenic this will be, and certainly a reason to return.  Mauro is so proud of his country and the wealth of wildlife found here in CR, showing us photo after photo

An interesting tradition of Soda La Pena is to have guests write who they are and where they are from on any surface of the building - the walls, the doors, the roofs, the chairs and anywhere else one can find a spot.  We were invited to do so, with Maura even adding our travel blog website.

An excellent choice and experience.

The drive down the mountain was considerably quicker than up, with us reaching Matapalo Beach in time to watch the sunset.


Another day and another sloth (or perhaps the same one as yesterday) very nearby to our breakfast area.


Dutch pancakes this morning.                                             The ever smiling and ever laughing Teddy.



Bougainvillea on our terrace.



Aechmea chantinii.



Begonia chyrsothemis.


Arundia graminifolia.                                                            Arctic Star or Snow Queen orchid.
  

An opossum sandwiched between two large leaves.


La Pena - a great little roadside Soda.


Yes we have bananas today.


Smoothies - guanabana / soursop and pineapple.               Fresh (the pit was included) guacamole.


Gayle's Burrito.                                                                   Norm's Hawaiian chicken, with pineapple.


Mauro.


La Pena Soda with its three tables and an active kitchen.


Space after space - walls, doors, chairs etc. are covered with evidence of those who have eaten at Soda La Pena.


Even the chairs are covered with those who have sat in them.


Adding our names to a door.


Scarlet-rumped Tanager.                                                      Along with a Palm Tanager.


A Golden Hooded Tanager.                                                    A Red-Legged Honeycreeper.


A Green Honeycreeper.


Pelicans over the beach.                                                       Gayle on the beach.


Others on the beach.


We know day after day too many sunset photos but they are gorgeous!



Pelicans at sunset.



February 26, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  

As mentioned Jardin de Los Monos could also be called Jardin de Osos de Perezosos (Garden of the Lazy Bears aka Sloths).  Sloths are often spotted on the property.  This morning there was one low in a tree just outside the gate, perhpas 10 feet away.  A mom just sleeping with her baby.

After breakfast we returned to the tree and got some great photos as mom and the baby were more active, moving around a bit.  Now 'a bit' for a sloth is not very much but still we were able to get some photos of moma's face and the baby.

Most of the day was spent either working on our travel blogs or relaxing in or around the pool.  This is so so relaxing.  Late afternoon we went to the beach for another nice sunset.

For dinner, given the Supper Club is closed today and tomorrow, we drove 20 minutes or so back towards Dominical to Ricar2, or Ricar'dos'.  The original Ricar, set inside an airplane is in nearby Quepos.  When the restaurant branched out to a second location they arranged to bring another plane onsite.

"This Boeing 727 started life in Germany with Hapag Lloyd in 1979. After only five years it was sold to Ethiopian Airlines where it spent the next five years.  It then spent the next ten years moving around various airlines in Colombia, Spain and South Africa.  Finaly the plane found a home in Mexico with Allegro Air in 1999.

Unfortunately Allegro Air ceased operations in November 2003 and the aircraft was placed into storage in San Jose.  Unable to find another airline it eventually found its new home as a hotel near Domincal in 2010."

We enjoyed a nice meal that started with a spicy Mexican Margarita each.  Then Norm had an Aztec soup, a traditional tortilla soup made with simple, richly seasoned tomato-chile broth and chicken often ladled over crispy tortilla strips although in this case tortilla chips were served on the side.  This was followed by a Vegetarian Casado for Gayle and for Norm Chicken in Tropical Sauce with pan seared corn tortilla, pieces of fresh mango, chives, cilantro, lemon and a touch of sweet chili served with almond rice and salad.  The fruit sauce was wonderful although the dish itself was just a tad too spicy.

It was an easy drive back to Matapalo Beach and Los Monos where we called it a night.


Slow down - sloth zone!


Lettika's delicious bread, ham and an egg for breakfast.
 


"I'm sure there is something up in that tree"


Just outside Jardin de Los Monos one is almost guaranteed to see a sloth - or an Osos Perezosos 'Lazy Bear'.



Momma sloth.


Aaaawwwww!


The sun setting over the ocean at Matapalo beach.


Crashing waves off Matapalo beach.                                   Pelicans sailing along the water.


More pelicans skimming across the water behind the waves, and then under the setting sun.


We returned to Ricar2 the next day to take some photos during the day.  

This photo of the entire plane was copied from the internet.




Eduardo                               Inside the restaurant.         The restaurant's pool.


Mexican Margaritas.                            Aztec soup.


Gayle had the vegetarian casado.          While Norm had the chicken in tropical sauce. 



February 25, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge) 
                                   to Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)  

Our last morning here at Pacific Edge.  We have concluded next time we are back it will need to be for five nights.  Howlers in the wee hours of the morning, birds including a toucan today, packing and breakfast - what else but banana pancakes again - thumbs up to Sid for making the absolute best, fluffy banana pancakes.  Plus he says they provide the best profit margin of his breakfast options so a definite win-win.

Michaelynn then showed us her new, expanded Boruca and jewellery gallery - a very nice space to display the masks and crafts of the indigenous Boruca and her own jewellery.  While in the gallery Michaelynn showed us Sid's achievement of being the Coconut Telegraph's Bartender of the Month (June 2007).  It wasquite an honour to be in the presence of such an esteemed recognized celebrity, one of bartender royalty fame :-).

Before leaving Sid found out Flor (the houskeeper) has 7 grandchildren and Arturo (the gardener) 2.  Having a supply of beanies left we provided each with enough for each grandchild and left the remaining 10 with Sid and Michaelynn to give to children at a nearby school.

Eventually we did have to pack up and head out.  Although we left with sadness we are so thankful to have come across Pacific Edge - with its authentic Costa Rican cabinas.  Perhaps not the luxury of some newer more modern places but that, along with Sid, Michaelynn, Kaiya and the dogs and cats is what makes it what it is - a warm, family run lodging with charm and character rather than some non-descript modern hotel.  We will be back!.



The drive to Matapalo Beach and Jardin de Los Monos (Garden of the Monkeys) is only 22 km or 25 minutes.  

We left after 11:00 am and even with a gas stop arrived before noon.  Our room was available which was nice, although if not we would have just hung out at the beach

Before even entering the gate another guest pointed out a sloth in a nearby tree.  While not guaranteed every time we have stayed at Jardins de Los Monos there has been a sloth or two, often with a baby.

This is our 5th stay at Los Monos, first coming here in 2020, then 2022, 2023 and 2024.  Each time we stay a day longer with this being six nights.  And for the most part the intent is to stay here on the property, enjoying our comfortable room, watching the wildlife and cooling off in the pool.

We were not disappointed as shortly before 4:00 pm a large troop of white faced / capuchin monkeys crossed the property, which really means the roof our our unit, into the trees inland.  Then an hour or so later they returned, swinging from trees, crossing on wires and prancing on the roofs making all kinds of racket.  It was very entertaining!

For dinner we had Lettike make us a reservation at the Matapalo Supper Club, by far our favourite restaurant in the area.  We were warmly greeted with big hugs by Darlenny and Daniel, who after five years recognize us the moment we step in the door.

A nice large glass of Malbec wine went well with our meals.  Gayle went in with something else in mind but could not resist the vegetarian red curry.  Norm knew what he was going to have, and did - the 400 g tenderloin steak with a large salad and delicious fried potatoes (salad and potatoes shared with Gayle). 

It was so nice to be back to places we so much enjoy.


Left:  not the best photo but at least                   proof we did see a toucan.

Below: another of the many birds that                    visit Pacific Edge.


Flor with her beanie babies.                                                Once again banana pancakes for breakfast.


There are lots if interesting pieces of art around the lodge including this large red fish.


From Cabina 2 looking down to Cabina 3 (and 4 beyond). 



 The view thriough the swing on the deck, below the Mirador to the ocean.


Pacific Edge, through the efforts and relationships of Michaelynn presents Boruca art for guests to enjoy (and purchase).  Michaelynn's now expanded gallery includes her own jewelery as well.


The Boruca use a lot of feathers in their crafts.   
         

In addition to the masks pouches and placemats are made by the Boruca.



A selection of the Boruca masks and art in Michaelynn's gallery.


Michaelynn does a fabulous service in promoting Boruca Art through her gift shop at Pacific Edge.




We could not leave without acknowledging we just spent the past four days in the presence of the honoured Coconut Telegraph's  Bartender of the Month  (June 2007).


And as we packed to leave we were reminded of the very throughtful welcoming noted.


Our parting view as we drove down Pacific Edge road and reached the highway.


Upon arriving to Matapalo Beach we were shown this sloth in a nearby tree.


Our next lodging is aptly named 'Jardin de Los Monos' which translates to 'Garden of the Monkeys'.





"You looking at me?"


Large servings of Chilean wine.                                  Darlenny doing her magic grilling steaks.


Dinner comes with a large salad.                                         Gayle's red curry.



About to enjoy dinner.
 

Large tenderloin with peppercorn sauce and delicious potatoes.



February 24, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)  

It is really hard to believe we could do less today than the previous two days, but less we did.

Of course we had breakfast (we split one order of pancakes between us as Sid's banana pancakes are so huge / fluffy), took photos of the property and vistas to the ocean, enjoyed the sounds of the jungle - the insects, the birds, the monkeys, cooled off with dips in the pool and relaxed in the hammock.

But beyond that really nothing.  Norm's tummy was acting up and as a result we did not even leave to go out to dinner.  

All of which resulted in what is no doubt the shortest travel blog daily entry ever.


The Mirador, or lookout.                    The view down the mountain to the coast looking north - spectacular.


The pool, or as Sid calls it the Lodge's AC, is much appreciated in the heat of mid day.


Nearly everywhere one turns here in Costa Rica one is reminded to live PURA VIDA. 


An armadillo thnnking about our left over pasta - but no it is all ours.


A few more artistic touches around Pacific Edge, including these stone statues.


Ho hum - another night in Costa Rica; another colourful sunset.




February 23, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)  

After another sleep interrupted (in a good way) by the howls of the howlers and the music of the birds we fell into our morning routine that starts with work on our travel blog out on our deck overlooking the tropical forest with views beyond to the ocean.

Eventually we make our way up for breakfast.  We tend to be on the late side with others having come and gone or about to head out leaving us to chat with Sid while he works away at whatever we ordered.  Today it is his banana pancakes - huge and fluffy.  Sid is a very interesting guy with, similar to Michaelynn, lots of life experiences and opinions.  We very much enjoy spending time with each of them.  After breakfast Michaelynn usually sits down for a bite to eat providing us the opportunity to chat with her at length.  Both have all the time in the world for us.

Today was another sunny hot one spent either on our shaded deck, in the hammock or in the pool.

Before we knew it it was late afternoon with the sun about to set.  Tonight's sunset was spectacular.  

We could only get a late dinner reservation at Exotica in Ojochal, a 35 minute drive but we love the restaurant and its manager Maite.  We were again warmly greeted and enjoyed another delicious meal.  Gayle started with a Passion Fruit daiquiri while Norm had a Pinaepple smoothie given the lengthy drive back in the dark on a newly paved road that yet to have lines painted.  For Norm the Costa Rican fish ceviche was calling out.  Beautifully presented it was wonderful.  Gayle had her 'go to' dish - the Pasta Strogonoff, spaghetti (or fettucini) in a vegetarian creamy tomato sauce with fresh mushrooms, white wine and vodka sauce.  Norm had The Thai Pot - coconut milk, seafood (shrimp and fish) and yellow curry from Madras.  Although we rarely have dessert it is custom for us to share a Banana flambe with ice cream when here at Exotica.

After our meal we had a nice chat with Maite and promised that if in the area we will of course be back.


Breakfast menu.                                 We have fond memories of Sid's fluffy pancakes.  He did not disappoint.


Scooby Doo - the newest memeber of the very pet friendly Vandiver family.


The sign said 'relax' ...                                                  ... so we did what was suggested.


The bottle of wine Michaelynn and Sid welcomed us with, along with a very nice note from them and their daughter Kaiya.


Palm and bamboo trees just outside our cabina.


The dense tropical forest in the valley below Pacific Edge.


Settled in on the viewing deck to enjoy the setting sun.


Yet another awesome Costa Rican sunset.



Welcome to Exotica.                                                            Costa Rican fish ceviche.



About to enjoy dinner.
  

Norm's Pineapple fruit smoothie.



   Gayle's Passion Fruit Daiquiri.


Rice.                                                    And curry broth.                                   Make up the Thai Pot.


Pasta Strogonoff.                                                                Bananas Flambe with rum and ice cream.


Gayle and Maite.



February 22, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)  

Our first full day at Pacific Edge and we did exactly what we expected we would do - virtually nothing.  

We were awoken very early (between 5:00 am and 6:00 am) by the howlers after which a multitude of birds serenaded us with their morning wake up calls.  8:30 ish we wandered up to the lodge for breakfast.  Breakfast is optional, i.e. not included here at Pacific Edge with a number of options created by Sid.  Today we both had the Surfer Burrito - beans, rice, eggs and cheese with optional chorizo (that I had) or bacon.  Served with a nice selection of fruit and tasty fried potatoes it was a good way to start our day.  Breakfast was very leisurely as we chatted up a storm with Sid on numerous topics.  Of course politics came up as did his HOA issues.

The rest of the day was spent at Pacific Edge where we napped in the hammock, worked on travel blogs, and cooled off with dips in the pool.  In spite of being more than a kilometre up the mountain it is still very hot here.  The fans certainly help but there is no air conditioning, i.e. the pool is the AC.

For dinner we went to Gusto, an Italian restaurant we went to last year and very much enjoyed.  The location is perfect, overlooking the ocean and everything authentic Italian from the wine - all of it from Italy, to the flour - also imported, to out waiter's strong Italian accent.  

Gayle started with a glass of bubbly - an Italian Spumante while I ordered a bottle of Morellino di Scansano red wine to have with dinner.  Gayle did not hesitate when she saw Gnocchi on the menu - handmade with a gargonzola and pear sauce with walnuts.  Norm ordered the Filetto de Manzo e Funghi - beef tenderloin with mushrooms, speck and parmesan cream.  It was top notch.  In spite of the opportunity to finish with Tirimisu Gayle was stuffed and passed.

It was an easy 15 minute drive (Gusto is just north of Uvita) back to Pacific Edge where we listened to the cicadas before turning in.


Sid.                                                                                      Surfer Burritos for breakfast, Norm's with chorizo.


Sid and Norm bantering.


Our Cabina #2.                                                                         Our deck with a nice hammock.


Views from Pacific Edge Eco Lodge looking north to Dominical.


Flying monkeys (photos by Gayle).


A glass of Spumante before dinner.


Sunset from out table at Gusto Italian Restaurant.


A nice Italian meal kind of needs a nice bottle of red.     Pizza slivers provided as an 'amuse bouche'. 


Gayle's gnocchi - a definite 10!                                           Norm's tenderloin.



February 21, 2025 - Capulin (Rancho Capulin) 
                                    to Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)  

We enjoyed a wonderful, albeit short stay at Rancho Capulin.  New and modern (at least the Terraza room that is part of the main building - the two casitas may be a bit more traditional) we had a plunge pool and superb views across the tropical forest over the Tarcoles river.  Flowers were prolific adding a great deal of colour.

Claudine provided a great breakfast including fresh juice, bread with jams (one of which was mango), banana bread, lots of fruit, eggs and of course coffee.

We each spent a short time in the plunge pool and Gayle enjoyed a very nice chat wtih Claudine before we packed and headed out.

Rancho Capulin is just a few kms north of the Tarcoles river, famous as home to many crocodiles that can often be seen from the bridge.  It had been a number of years since we stopped to take a look but this time Gayle wanted to do so.  She was super excited to see at least  seven crocodiles, one of which was very large, although there were likely many others submerged in the water.


We then continued on through Herradura, past Quepos and on to Dominical where we arrived at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, to be warmly greeted by Sid, Michaelynn and Kaiya. 


This is the fourth time we have been to Pacific Edge, the third time we have stayed (the first time was to check the place out and buy a Boruca mask - obviously we were impressed).  Each trip our stay has gotten a little bit longer - the 1st year it was two nights, last year three and this year we will be staying four nights. 


This is a place where we feel like real friends.  We just clicked with Sid and Michaelynn.  We were greeted with flowers, a very nice note, wine, chocolate and cookies (to have with our coffee).  Very impressive.


After settling in we first enjoyed the monkey show (white faced / capuchin) and then the sunset.  Being a km + 'up the mountain' the views of the coastline and sunset from Pacific Edge are spectacular.


For dinner we went to a new pizzeria in nearby Domincal - Moromo Forneria.  Gayle's arugula was a bit strange - apparently just thrown on at the end, but worked well with the sweet peppers.  Norm had garlic, mushrooms and salami.  A simple dinner but one can never go wrong with pizza.


Although the restaurant was full when we arrived as we left and walked back to our vehicle we observed how few people were around, which we found strange at 8:00 pm on a Friday night in the height of tourist season.


We returned to our cabina where Gayle was 'attacked' by evening (cidadas?) insects as she 'escaped' into our room, turned out the lights and called it a night.

 


We had a short (one night) but wonderful stay at Rancho Capulin.



A delicious breakfast of fresh juice, eggs, fruit, jams (including mango) and freshly baked bread and banana bread.



A few of the sites around the Rancho - a young pineapple, ornaments and many remiders of the PURA VIDA lifestyle.



Claudine, the owner of Rancho Capulin.                            Gayle at breakfast looking out over the tropical forest.




Our Terraza room has its own plunge pool.



The Tarcoles River.                                                          Rancho Capulin's pool.



Gayle took this beautiful photo last night.



The soil here must be very special as the flowers are prolific.

Hawaiian Hibiscus.                              Hibiscus.                                              Allamanda cathartica.


Red passion flower.


Hydroanthus chrysanthus.                                                  Bougainvellia glabra.


Tabebuia aurea.


The Tarcoles River is famous for its crocodiles.  Gayle went out on the bridge to check if she could see any, and to her excitement she did.



We stopped at this fruit stand to take a few photos and ended up buying a large watermelon.


Pineapples ...                                        ... more melons ...                                 and other CR exotic fruit.


We detoured into a palm oil plantation for a short break where there were these huge palm trees and interesting funghi that fascinated Gayle.


We were welcomed by Michaelynn, Sid and Kaiya with fresh flowers, a bottle of wine (actually they were thoughtful enough to put a bottle of white in the fridge as they weren't sure what we preferred) and chocolate.


As we were at Ylang Ylang we were greeted by a troop of white faced / capuchin monkeys here at Pacific Edge. We love their antics.





Tonight's sunset from Pacific Edge.


Dinner tonight - pizzas at Moromo Forneria in Dominical.


Gayle's - sweet pepper and arugla.


Norm's - garlic, mushroom and salami.



February 20, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
                                          to Capulin (Rancho Capulin)  

After three full days at Ylang Ylang it was time to pick up stakes and move on.  For breakfast we both had the passion fruit juice and the burrito.  Having felt there was not enough pico to gallo when we had the burritos the other day we asked for a bit more, which we were provided.  However we were somewhat miffed when we found out we were charged $6.22 (US = $8.86 Cdn) for the additional.  Sure there might be some miniscule extra cost but when one is paying > $400 US per day it felt like being nickeled and dimed.

On our way out we thought about stopping in Montezuma but as we drove through we saw no reason to, and fortunate we did not as we very well may have missed the Futero Verde International students who were painting a marked crosswalk, complete with sharks, in front of their school.  We of course stopped and I had a nice chat with the teacher and students about my focus on crosswalk safety back home.

Our route took us from Montezuma to Cobano and then past Playa Tambor to Paquena where we caught the ferry to Puntarenas.  

From there it was a bit over an hour drive to Capulin.

Unfortunately our ferry left 15 + minutes late meaning we just missed the sunset by the time we reached Rancho Capulin.  Fortunately we did see the the colourful skies upon arriving.

Our stop at Rancho Capulin is a just a one-nighter as we felt the drive to Dominicalito and Pacific Edge would be a bit too long, with too much at night in the dark.

We planned to have dinner at a Soda but the nearby ones closed by six resulting in us going to a nearby restaurant - Las Tekas.  Very informal the food turned out to be really good, albeit my 'special' came with a considerable cost.  

We started with two excellent fruit smoothies - sour sop for Norm and pineapple for Gayle.  Both were excellent.  Norm then started with the mixed ceviche, a combination of fish and shrimp.  Also very good.  Gayle had the Chofrijo Bowl, a traditional Costa Rican dish that combines ingredients such as beans, pork rinds (of course not in the vegetarian version), rice and pico de gallo among others, accompanied with corn tortillas.  Norm was offered a 'special' of tuna and shrimp.  On the one hand he should have asked the price although on the other hand if he had he would not have ordered it.  The 'special' turned out to be 20,000 colones, or $62.44 Cdn.  Now that said it was excellent.  Two large pieces of tuna (one would have been enough) along with four massive shrimp with a delicious garlic sauce, accompanied by a salad and mashed potatoes.  It would have been perfect to share but with Gayle being a vegetarian that is not doable.

It was a short drive back to Rancho Capulin where Norm had a quick dip in the plunge pool before calling it a night.


Another early morning view from our deck.                         Dense foliage outside our dome.


Early morning photographer.              Burritos with extra pico de gallo.


Thunbergia laurifolia.


Students at Futero Verde International school between Montezuma and Cobano painting fresh crosswalk markings, complete with sharks.



Me taking a photo of the 'public works' team and to the right the team.


Playa Tambor.                                                                       A number of pelicans congregating on the rocks.


Diving for a snack.                                A pelican in flight.                               Another sea bird.


The dock and boats in the water near Playa Tambor.    A short video of Playa Tambor.


A beautiful colourfully painted wall along the road near Playa Tambor.


A painted Blue Morpho.                                                A very short video of the wall.


There was a stretch of a km or two along the road between Playa Tambor and Pequena filled with these colourful Peacock flowers.


Perhaps Mexican Holdback.                                                Attracting a butterfly.


Gayle and lots of colourful flowers on the rock wall near the ferry.


Our ferry the Tambor II that took us across the Gulf of Nicoya. 


Sunset from Rancho Capulin.



With all the nearby Soda's being closed we ate at Las Tekas Marisqueria, a fish restaurant a few kms from Rancho Capulin.  Norm started with a soursop juice and Gayle with pineapple - both large and excellent.




Mixed cevice - both fish and shrimp.                                   A vegetarian Chofrijo bowl for Gayle.


The expensive (so much so it deserved two photos) Tuna and Shrimp special.


When we returned we were greeted by a monster grasshopper.



February 19, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)

Today was our third full day here at Ylang Ylang.  It is somewhat difficult to find much new to say (or to photo).

We did meet our dome neighbours (Domes 6 and 7 are up the same path) Greg and Margo from Kingston, Ontario.  When we saw them again at the pool they asked if we wanted to joint them for dinner.  Sure, why not?  It was nice to share travel experiences.  They are here at Ylang Ylang for four nights before renting a house nearby for a couple of weeks.

For breakfast we both had Passion Fruit Juice and Huevos Rancheros.  

The day was again pleasantly repetitive - listening to the jungle sounds from our deck; cooling off in the pool; napping; and watching the monkey show late afternoon.

Happy Hour was a Pina Colada for Gayle and another bottle of Albarinho wine.  Gayle then enjoyed the Curry Ylang Ylang with Tofu - a variety of curried vegetables simmered in coconut milk served on a bed of rice and Norm, having enjoyed it so much the first night, again ordered the fish filet blackened with a passion fruit sauce.  And once again the fish tonight was tuna.

While some might question our do nothing, sloth like approach to our time here we absolutely love it.  Relaxing in the midst of nature without running around trying to do a gazillion things is our way to enjoy ourselves while away.  We wouldn't change a thing.


Ylang Ylang Beach Resort where one is encouraged to experience the PURA VIDA.





Artifacts.                                              Ylang Ylang branded shampoo, conditioner and body wash.


Carvings on the posts around the restaurant.


To the left the pathway to other domes and units.    

And below bananas.


Pseudobombax ellipticum with common names including shaving brush tree, Dr Seuss tree, and amapolla tree.





Yellow walking iris.





Hippobromo longiflora.


Jungle geranium.                                   Heliconia.                                            Red ginger.


Not that you haven't seen them before but the pool and beach again.


The entrance to Ylang Ylang from the beach.


Outdoor shower.          A small pond.                                                  Huge banana leavers just off our deck.


Another day ... more monkeys.


A very short video of monkeys in front of our dome.


Pina Colada.                        Albariho wine.                     Margo and Greg.


Curry Ylang Ylang with Tofu.                                               Fish Filet Blackened with Passion Fruit sauce.



February 18, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)

As expected today was another chill out do virtually nothing kind of day.

Gayle was up early enough to catch some morning orange sky from our deck.  One thing we don't get here is either sunrise or sunset.

After time on our deck it was down for breakfast where Gayle had the French Toast - topped with a fruit melange while Norm had the Tropical Banana Pancakes - served with homemade maple syrup and also the fresh fruit melange.  

After time on our deck it was down for breakfast where Gayle had the French Toast - topped with a fruit melange while Norm had the Tropical Banana Pancakes - served with homemade maple syrup and also the fresh fruit melange.

We both had the Cas juice, a sweet and sour drink made from the Costa Rican guava fruit, a pale orange tropical fruit with a pink juicy flesh and a strong sweet aroma.

The rest of the morning included a walk on the beach, a swim in the pool - the ocean waves are a bit too much for us to give them a go - and for Gayle hammock time. 
 
Late afternoon, as expected the monkeys showed up spending time again in the large tree directly in front of our dome.  As much as they were pretty much the same as yesterday and the day before their antics don't get old - jumping from branch to branch and interacting with each other, along with the occasional squabble.

Afterwards we again went down before Happy Hour ended for a couple of drinks - a Margarita for Gayle and a Costa Rica for Norm.  The Costa Rica is a drink the colour of the Costa Rican flag being blue and red with guaro, lime juice and grenadine.

Gayle ordered the Latino Nachos - black beans, guacamole, cheese and sour cream, with pico de gallo served with homemade tortilla chips.  Good but not quite to the level of the nachos at Casa Caletas.  With the seafood being so good so far Norm continued with the theme choosing Montezuma's Mixed Seafood Grill of shrimp, fish, calamari, mussels and clams stewed with onions, peppers, plantains, herbs and olive oil in a mild spicy tomato sauce, served with seasonal vegetables, fettucini and garlic bread.

Another enjoyable leisurely dinner to bring an end to another enjoyable leisurely day.


Early morning sunrise.                                                         Again our view of the ocean through the large trees.


The walkway to our Dome.                  The corner of our Dome with our deck in the midst of the vegetation.


French toast.                                                       Cas juice.                   Tropical banana pancakes.


Ylang Ylang's restaurrant, with the yoga studio on the upper level.


The Pacific Ocean - somewhere out there is Hawaii and Japan.


The rocky shoreline near Ylang Ylang.


Montezuma beach.


Another creative towel design.                                           Just hangin' out.


A stone light shade.                               Bamboo.                                              Life in a hammock.


Like clockwork the monkeys arrived late afternoon.


 A howliing Howler.




A table set up on the beach for a special / romantic dinner.


A Costa Rica (with Guaro and Grenadine to create the colours of the CR flag) and a Margarita.


Fresh lemonade and passion fruit juice.


Latino Nachos.                                                                    Montezuma's Mixed Seafood Grill.



February 17, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)

Be forewarned the details of our next three days will be very similar.  Ylang Ylang is a beautiful property.  Although one could go out for day trips we saw no reason to, rather enjoying our wonderful 'dome' and the delicious meals (included in the reservation creating no incentive to leave and eat elsewhere).

We awake each morning to the sounds of the birds and insects, and on occaision howler monkeys.  There is coffee in the room that keeps us going while we work on our travel blogs before eventually heading down to breakfast.  Breakfast includes a fresh juice and any item off the extensive menu.  Today we both ordered the Ylang Ylang Breakfast Burrito - scrambled eggs, rice, beans, cheese, plantains and pico de gallo.  Very good.

After a leisurely breakfast we return to our room to just chill out.  In fact we spend most of our day on the deck of our dome, immersed in the sounds and sights of the tropical forest directly in front of us.  The vegetation is so thick we can barely see the ocean.

During the afternoon we will go down to the pool.  Also nicely designed and set in the 'jungle'.  Yes there are a number of children in the pool but generally they are having good fun.  The water is nice and refreshing.  Gayle may spend some time in the hammock while Norm may shut his eyes for a nap. 

Then mid to late afternoon it is time for the monkey show.  The trees in front of our dome are full of white faced / capuchin monkeys jumping from branch to branch, interacting with each other and generally having fun, although on occasion we hear the squeals of a couple who are obviously unhappy with each other.  It is quite the show lasting over an hour.

Then around 5:15 pm we head down for Happy Hour where we order drinks to enjoy in this fabulous setting.  Today Gayle had a Papaya Colada - rum, papaya, cream of coconut and milk, while Norm ordered a bottle of Spanish Pazo Cilliero Albarino white wine to have with dinner.

For dinner Gayle chose the Asian Rice Noodles a la Coconut Cream - rice noodles stir-fried with vegetables in a creamy fresh homemade ginger-coconut milk sauce with Norm ordering the Pasta a la Salsa de Mar Magico - a white wine creamy seafood sauce incluing shrimp, fresh fish and clams served with garlic bread.  Again, any worries about the food being 'just ok' turned out to be unfounded.  We both enjoyed our meals.

Back up to our Dome where wespent more time on our deck before calling it a night.


A butterfly joined us.


Our breakfast table looking out over the lawn to the ocean. 


We both had the burritos for breakfast.



A towel monkey.                   Chillin' on our deck.             Our outdoor shower.


A palm tree.                          A cool stone statue.            The pool with a waterfall at the far end.


Around the pool area a couple of comfy hammocks and lots of lounge chairs.


A Basilisk (a species of lizard) on the rocks.                                                        A large lizard in a tree.


Again this afternoon we were treated to the antics of a troop of white faced / capuchin monkeys in the trees just outside our dome.



                                                                                            Piggy-back.


"Shhh - those nice people don't want to hear you squawking all day."


Nice tables for dinner (and other meals) set amongst the tropical forest.


Papaya Colada.                   A bottlle of Pazo Cilliero Spanish Albarino wine.


Asian Rice Noodels a la Coconut Cream.                          Pasta a la /Salsa de Mar Magico.



February 16, 2025 - San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)
                                     to Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)

While our stay at Casa Caletas was short it was very nice.  Our room was great.  The jacuzzi wonderful.  The views spectacular.  The local music good.  And the birds and animals great to experience.

While it was time to leave we did make a quick stop at Playa Coyote - another long expansive beach where families were enjoying a Sunday having meals.  

The drive to Ylang-Ylang is only 38 kms but indicated to take an hour an a half, implying an average speed of only 25 kph.  You can imagine the quality of roads.

This included crossing three rivers, the widest of which was Rio Bongo.  Adding to the challenges of the pot-holed dirt road was at times heavy rain that filled the pot-holes making their depth impossible to see.

While we had a bit of apprehension upon arriving at Rio Bongo we followed a motorcycle across the river and managed to make it around the many many pot-holes.

We passed through the tourist village of Montezuma, drove to the end of the road and then navigated the last 150 metres across the beach to Ylang-Ylang Beach Resort.  After registering we were taken to our 'dome'.  We had booked one of the nicer rooms in-spite of the cost.  Ylang-Ylang is half board with breakfast and dinner included, at least a main course and a juice drink.  If one wants an appetizer or an alcoholic drink or wine they are extra.  Our room, including the food and tax, was $412 (US) - $564 Cdn at the exchange rate when we booked - more now.  Yes it is a lot but our 'dome' is very private and isolated, set within the tropical forest.  The constant pounding of the surf can be heard along with the sounds of the insects and birds.  As we arrived (and again during every other day) we were treated to the arrival of many white faced / capuchin monkeys who spent over an hour in the trees entertaining us.

After the 'show' we went down for Happy Hour and dinner where Gayle had a 'Love Shack' and Norm a Blue Margarita along with some tapas - a Fresh herbed tomato Brushettita (fresh tomato brushettas enhanced with herbed oive oil sauce) and Calamari Al Limon (calamari sauteed in a traditional olive oil-lemon sauce).  Then for dinner Gayle had the Pasta a la Arrabiata - a pasta served with a spicy (and indeed it was) light-herbed garlic tomato sauce served with garlic bread.  There was a choice of spaghetti, penne or fettuccini (which Gayle chose).  Norm had the fish (tonight it was tuna) filet blackened with Passion Fruit Sauce, served over potatoes with sauteed vegetables.  Both were excellent.  For drinks Gayle had the passion fruit while Norm a fresh lemonade. 


We returned to our dome (a short uphill walk), listened to the jungle sounds and called it a night.
 

A couple of (perhaps not the best) videos of Casa Caletas

View from our deck.                                                             Eating area, pool and views.


What is pretty much a guaranteed start to the day are pelican fly pasts and Gallo Pinto for breakfast.


A father and son headed out presumably for some fishing.                                  Gabriela, a staff member.


A family spending time this morning on the beach / sand bar.                             The estuary at low tide.


A coati wandered by just as we were leaving.


Casa Caletas.


Nearby Playa Coyote.


An interesting tree near Playa Coyote.                                A family enjoying a Sunday meal on the beach.


A Crested Caracara.                                                            In flight.


Just before we reached Rio Bongo we encountered this sign.  It did give us pause as to what was ahead.


Crossing Rio Bongo.   

 

Resulted in a nicely washed vehicle.


After having crossed Rio Bongo there was less than clear direction as to where to go next.  As it turned out it was 150 metres or so along the river bank to access the 'escape road'.


Along the way we encountered this herd of cows, first behind fencing and then let out onto the road by a fellow we asked directions of.  Note the 'rivers' of water down the road - the result of the downpour we were experiencing.  And yes I did jump in our vehicle quickly and got going before the herd reached us.



Ylang-Ylang - our home for the next four days.


As we arrived we were treated to a monkey welcoming party.  There were perhaps 20 of these white-faced / capuchin monkeys romping through the huge trees directly in front of our dome (Dome #6).


Our Happy Hour drinks.                         Brushittini.                                            Calamari.


Drinks with dinner.      Pasta Arrabiata                                                 Blackened fish / tuna.



February 15, 2025 - San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)

Today's report will be short as we did little more than lounged around Casa Caletas.

We awoke to our amazing view across the estuary to the Pacific Ocean with a multitude of birds swooping up and down, left and right or just taking a rest on one of the sand bars.

Breakfast choices were few - an omellette or Gallo Pinto (we both ordered the Gallo Pinto).  Simple (no fruit) but good.

This remote area seemed like a good location to donate the beanie babies / buddies we again brought with us.  However being a Saturday (and we are leaving tomorrow on Sunday) we could not do so in person.  So I chatted with Stephanie who said she would deliver them to two schools next week.

The rest of the day was spent in the jacuzzi or pool and watching the wildlife including the wide variety of birds in the trees and the estuary, including a hawk, an egret and a committee of vultures, along with the numerous pelicans and other shore birds.

Mid afternoon we were visited by a troop of howler monkeys in a tree just outside our room.  These howlers had a distinctive orange colour on their backs.

Biologists have studied a phenomenon that seems to appear almost exclusively in Costa Rica, that of a discolouration of certain Howler Monkeys that give them an orange pigmentation.  The first observations of such anomalies were about 10 years ago.

There are several theories as to why
  1. exposure to pesticides and insecticides near where the animals live, or
  2. loss of habitat and forest corridors resulting in in-breeding, or
  3. a rare genetic exception that may have this dominant traits.
Photo from the internet

We again ate at Casa Caletas as there are few other options and we do our utmost to avoid the rough, pot-holed dirt roads at night.  Gayle ordered the nachos but with beans rather than chicken.  Delicious.  Norm had the seafood soup in a milk broth.  Also excellent.

It is hard to understand why, after doing so little during the day we are so tired after dinner.  But we are and again it was early to bed.


A viewing platform down by the estuary.                             Casa Caletas' infinity pool.


Others having breakfast.



Starting with a glass of orange juice. 


 Stephanie, our server.



Sitting down to breakfast - Gallo Pinto again, but we do very love it.


A hawk.                                                An egret.                                              A vulture.


There certainly are a lot of shore birds near-by.


Our annual Costa Rica beanie give-away.



The estuary as seen over the pool.                                     A boat of fishermen heading out.


Throughout the day we were treated to fly pasts of pelicans.


Right outside our room a troop of howler monkeys appeared, these having some of the orange pigmentation now sometimes seen on howlers in Costa Rica.


The skies around Casa Caletas were full of pelicans.


The Pacific Ocean as seen from our deck.                          More pelicans as the sun is starting to set.


Another nice sunset this evening.


The sun about to disappear below the water line.


A Margarita with extra in the glass.                                     Under all that lettuce are nachos and beans.


Nachos and rice to go with Norm's seafood soup.               Seafood soup in a milk broth.



February 14, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
                                     to San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)

Our last morning here at El Pequeno Gecko Verde.  Quite unusually - after all it is supposed to be dry season here - it poured rain for a number of hours duriing the night.  Any rain this time of the year, while unexpected, is welcome as it keeps the dust down.

We had a final Gallo Pinto, today with scrambled eggs.  Afterwards we chatted again at length with Muriel, and her husband Fabrice.  We really enjoyed our stay here at El Pequeno Gecko Verde.  Our rustic-style room, Carambola, decorated with hand-made wooden furniture, while a bit small, was very functional.  We particulary enjoyed the large deck with a cooling fan and a hammock providing views of the tropical forest.

We decided the drive to Montezuma would be too long and therefore booked in for two nights at a place we found near San Francisco de Coyote. 

The drive was entirely along dirt roads down the coast, past Playa Carrillo and a number of other beaches, including Playa Miquel near where we stayed in 2019.  We reached Casa Caletas mid afternoon, pretty much as expected.

We booked the front Delue Room with Jacuzzi.   We of course paid a bit more but both the views across and out the estuary and the jacuzzi were certainly worth it.  There are birds everywhere, particularly pelicans, but also egrets, blue herons and others we couldn't identify.

Being Valentine's Day we were welcomed with towels shaped as a heart filled with flower petals.  Our room is large, with a nice deck including a good table on which to work, and views to die for.

Before dinner we enjoyed a nice sunset.

Dinner was a bit of an experience.  The deck by the pool was set up for the musicians but just before dinner it was obvious rain was expected so everything was moved under a roof.  It was the right decision as it poured for over an hour.  The time it took for that to happen plus the fact it was somewhat busy meant service was somewhat slow - actually quite slow.  We sat down at 6:00 pm and did not leave until just before 9:00 pm.  At least we were not in a hurry so no worries.  But for most of the time - 6:45 pm through 8:45 pm non-stop the three musicians played and sang Costa Rican music.  Still a tad loud for being able to chat but all in all quite good.

For dinner Gayle ordered a vegetarian burrito.  We're not sure what was lost in the translation but what she received was a vegetarian casado.  The casado turned out to be quite good, especially the beans that Gayle raved on about.  Norm ordered the reasonably priced tenderloin.  While decent it was quite small, not holding a candle to the steaks he is looking forward to at The Matapalo Supper Club when we visit in a 10 days time.


Fabrice.                                               This morning's Gallo Pinto with scrambled eggs and flat tortillas.


The soothing waterfall beside the Gecko Verde pool.        Possibly Capa Roja Brasilena, so says Mr. Google.


One of a number of coconut trees on the property.


Playa Carrillo - an absolutely beautiful sandy beach.


A ranch hand. 



Road traffic - just wandering around without a care iin the world.


 All beaches to the right.



A selection of flowers seen along our drive.



Being Valentine's day we were welcomed with these flower petals in our room.


Our jacuzzi looking out to the estuary and ocean beyond.


Pelicans on a sand bar in the estuary.                                 The river outside our room.


Traditional colourful Costa Rican Sarchi carts.


Sunset over the estuary, Playa Coyote and the Pacifc Ocean.


Gayle enjoying tonight's special Valentine's day music.



A strawberry daiquiri.            A bottle of wine.                  And a small starter of shredded beef and nachos.


Vegetarian casado - the beans were fantastic.                     A small tenderloin steak.



February 13, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)

Another morning / early afternoon much the same as the previous.  We did spend nearly an hour chatting with Muriel about her family, life here, and hotel guests.  Like others we have asked she said 95% of guests are great but there are a few ... such as the fellow who was bothered by the wake-up howls of the nearby monkeys or another fellow who was upset that a coati did his / her business in the pool.  If one comes to the rainforest with animals (and birds and insects) one has to be prepared for their existence.  There is really nothing that can be done about monkeys who howl early in the morning, and for the 'poo in the pool' they clean it out and added more chlorine but animals will be animals.  Some travellers just need to do a bit more research as to where they are staying.

During the afternoon we decided to return to the beach.  We first tried the south end of Playa Samara but the waves were somewhat large so we returned to Playa Carrillo where we again had a wonderful time on the super soft sand and in the calm and warm ocean water.

We then returned to Playa Rio Buena Vista but the sunset was a dud.  Back to Gecko Verde for a short while and then out to dinner.  

We had asked Muriel for her recommendations as to pizzas to which she gave us a couple.  One was closed so it was Mar Y Fuego.  A nice establishment with a wood pizza oven and outdoor tables it was good we made a reservation as there was only one table open.  There was also a musician this evening.  While his guitar playing and singing were both quite good the music was way too loud, making it near impossible to talk.  In retrospect I wish he has not playing ... oh well.  

We started with a Bruschetta con vegetables - toasted bread with garlic, dill aioli, chevre, sauteed vegetables, chopped salagette tomatoes, bean sprouts, extra virgin olive oil and basil.  Beautifully presented and delicious.  We then each ordered one of the 'smaller' pizzas although we kind of knew they were going to be too much.  Gayle had the Verde - tomato sauce, mozzarella, gargonzola, rucula and cherry tomatoes while Norm had the Texas - tomato sauce, mozzarella, spicy salami, Italian sausage and oregano.  Both were excellent but we were right.  Gayle ate half while Norm three-quarters.  We hope the Gecko Verde staff appreciated the left overs we gave to them.


One of the stone statues around the property.


One of the groundskeepers with a primative broom.


The inviting pool.


Pineapple juice this morning, more fresh fruit and back to the traditional Gallo Pinto.


There are a number of coatis around the property, some of whbm like to enjoy a drink from the pool.



Gayle and Muriel, owner along with her husband Fabrice.



A ladder and plants against the colourful wall.


El Pequeno Gecko Verde's pool.


The entrance to El Pequeno Gecko Verde.


A banyan tree with many prop roots.                                 A small portion of Samara beach.




Back to Playa Carrillo for another enjoyable swim in the calm and warm ocean.


The beach and palm trees at Playa Carrillo - simply beautiful.



A great-tailed Grackle feeding on a coconut.                         A calabash, not to eat but used for bowls.



Dinner tonight at Mar & Fuego.                           A strawberry Margarita.                      And a traditional Margarita


There was a musician playing at the restaurant.  Good skills but unfortunately too loud, making discussion virtually impossible.



The unique and delicous bruschetta.                                  The wood pizza oven.


Gayle's Verde pizza.                                                            Norm's Texas pizza.




February 12, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)

I could copy and paste yesterday morning and early afternoon although I did have an omelette rather than the Gallo Pinto, but otherwise virtually the same.  

Mid afternoon we drove to the Rio Bueno Vista beach to see if we could expect a sunset.  Upon arriving we came upon a committee of vultures and realized why when we saw a fellow cleaning fish he had caught.  We did conclude this will be a good sunset location.

We then drove out to Playa Carrillo, a few kms south of Samara.  Play Carrillo is a beautiful beach lined by majestic palm trees.  The sand is so soft, extending out into the reasonably calm (a few small waves but nothing really) and very warm waters of the ocean.  It was really nice to get into the Pacific for a swim.

We then returned to Rio Buena Vista where, along with a number of others, indeed were treated to a colourful setting sun.

For dinner, as we had enjoyed our Soda experience last night, we decided to give Soda Samarena, just down from our hotel a try.  It too was very good, and reasonably priced.  With only four outside tables it was very informal.  The servings were large and tasty.  I started with chicken wings.  Being quite hungry, and somewhat distracted chatting with a family from Saskatchewan, I had eaten all but one before realizing I had not taken a photo.  Better late (with only one wing left) than never.  Gayle then had the Casado, a plate of beans and rice with a salad, a few French Fries and a plantain.  I had the coconut shrimp.  We both tried a Tamarind juice drink which unfortunately was not as good as we expected.  Less than a minute back to El Pequenc Gecko Verde.
  

Two things that scream relax - a hammock and the sounds of a waterfall.


A number of indiginous carvings in the breakfast area.


Today I decided to have an omellete.  Gayle stuck with her 'go to' breakfast - Gallo Pinto.



Muriel, the owner.                                   One of the cleaning staff.                    Sergio, one of the receptionists.



Upon arriving at Rio Buena Vista we encountered this committee (or venue or volt) of vultures.



Isn't he (or she) some cute?  You are allowed to say 'no'.  Gayle says adorable.



The reason for the congregation of vultures was this fellow who was cleaning his catch.



The palm trees lining Playa Carrillo.




Playa Carrillo.



It's as if Gayle has her own private ocean.






As we left Playa Carillo the sun was just starting to set.






Rays of sunlight through the clouds at Playa Rio Buena Vista.



The sun reaches the water.



Dinner tonight was as Soda Samarena.                                      Our server / cook.


The cozy family run Soda has only four tables.


Waiting for dinner.                                            Tamarind juice.          A starter of chicken wings.


Gayle's vegetarian casado.                                                 Coconut shrimp.


Delivering the meals.



February 11, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)

We have found another perfect lodging for our travel style.  Nine rooms set in lush vegetation with a nice pool we have a room with a large deck and cooking facilities - not that we will use them other than to make coffee each morning.  There is lots of beautiful Costa Rican wood furniture - the table, the chairs, the bed, and the floors.  Very tastefully designed providing lots of privacy.  Our room is named Carambola, after the fruit also known as star fruit.

Upon seeing the breakfast menu it was immediately obvious what we would choose - the traditional Costa Rican dish of beans, rice, eggs, plantains, small tortillas and cheese (cheese Gayle calls 'squeaky') Gallo Pinto.  Served with a large plate of fresh fruit - pineapple, papaya, bananas and watermelon (or sandia in Spanish) and a drink - today it was watermelon, along with, of course, coffee.  

The afternoon was spent on our deck, which has a very much appreciated fan, and in the pool - very relaxing.

Late in the afternoon we went to a nearby beach to in theory watch the sunset.  However the position of the beach and nearby land meant the setting sun was not visible from the location - we will have to find another spot tomorrow.

For dinner we decided to try a traditional 'soda'.  In Costa Rica 'sodas' are small, family-owned places where one can get the real taste of the country's food.  They're the best places to discover CR's food culture and experience how locals really eat.  Every soda has its own personality, but they all provide that 'insider' feeling one won't get at a fancy, upscale restaurant.

As nearby Soda La Perla was recommended we decided to give it a try.  There were not a lot of tables and it was quite busy but we did find a spot.  We each had a very tasty pineapple juice.  Gayle tried the Chalupa - a fried corn tortila sometimes shaped like a boat (the actual meaning of 'chalupa' is boat or canoe) topped with a mixture of meat, vegetables and / or cheese.  Of course Gayle had the vegetables.  Norm's decision was easy when he saw pulpo (octopus) ceviche.  Ceviche, a traditional dish in many Latin American countries, is raw fish or shellfish marinated in citrus juice and seasoning.  An excellent choice.  The other nice thing about a soda is the reasonable price.

Interestingly our daughter, who spent some time in Samara many years ago, had eaten regularly at Soda La Perla.  She had recommended it to us and we actually had a meal here our first time to Samara back in 2009.

We returned to El Pequena Gecko Verde where we turned in relatively early.


Here we are at El Pequeno Gecko Verde.    



To start breakfast - a plate of fruit and a glass of watermelon juice.


Gallo Pinto with a plate of fruit and watermelon (sandia) juice.


The conical roof of the breakfast area.


Flor de jengibra rojo.



A Rufous-backed wren.



Interesting 'Mayan-like' statues.


The moon and the sun.


A comfy shaded sitting area.                                       Looking across the pool to the reception / breakfast area.  


El Pequeno Gecko Verde's pool set in the lush vegetation.


Our room Carambola.


Yesterday (and again today) we were visited by a racoon , today a coati checked us out..


The long, expansive Playa Samara.                 The calm Pacific Ocean.    
                                    

Tonight we ate at Soda La Perla, a small local 'soda' recommended to us many years ago by our daughter, who had stayed nearby while volunteering at a wildlife refuge here in Samara.


Gayle had vegetarian chalupas.                                        While Norm ordered the pulpo ceviche with taco chips.


Norm's pulpo (octopus) ceviche was tender, fresh and very good.  An excellent choice.


Fruit for smootheis and to accompany the meals.


Staff and others at Soda La Perla.




February 10, 2025 - Playa Avellanas (Soulshine)
                                     to Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)

Our last morning before heading south to Samara and our next stop.

But not before a little excitement as Gayle, while packing has this gigantic insect drop out of her clothes - we'll say a grasshopper (but who knows?)  The height of Gayle's iPad is approx. 7 inches so it appears our 'friend' is more or less 6 inches - quite the size and quite the wake-up call.

We enjoyed another tasty breakfast.  Gayle again ordered the Challah bread French Toast and I followed suit, along with some sausage, and the guanabanana, pineapple and coconut juice.  A great choice.  We had a nice chat with Yael about how she and her family came to find their way here.

It started with an adventure to Costa Rica where they fell in love with the way of life and the Playa Avellanas area.  Fast forward a number of years to 2019 when, along with some inheritance money, Yael and Roee bought the hotel, moved their family from Israel and created the Soulshine experience - a 'relaxed and casual style' of providing comfort and care for each guest.

There are no dinners here at Soulshine with breakfast / lunch being served from 8:00 am to 2:00 pm providing a unique selection of Middle Eastern recipies with every meal being prepared from scratch using fresh ingredients.

Although one can take a less direct / longer route that is primarily on better paved roads we chose to take the more direct coastal route, mostly over dirt roads.  

We again passed through Playa Negra and then on to Paraiso (where we stayed in 2019).  From there it was down the Pacific Coast.  We made a short stop in San Juanilla which has a beautiful soft sand beach, before continuing past Playa Ostianal and Nosara before reaching Samara, although not before we had to drive through the Rio Buena Vista - thank goodness for our 4 x 4. 

Our next lodging - El Pequeno Gecko Verde was easy to find.

After settling into our room Carambola with beautiful Costa Rican wood throughout - the bed, the chairs, the endtables, the floors etc. we had to endure a very brazen racoon.  Not only did she march right on up to our verandah but actually 'stole' my camera bag.  Thank goodness Gayle had her shoes on as she chased the escaping racoon down the path and retrieved my bag.

The Soda where we planned to have dinner was closed (as are many places on Monday's) so we went into town where we found a Mexican restaurant with some live music.  A Monstor Margarita (that we shared) and a Chimichanga for each of us - vegetarian for Gayle and steak for Norm.  Decent Mexican food that hit the spot.

Back to Pequena Gecko Verde and off to bed, with everything brought in and the doors all closed just in case our racoon decided to return!


Welcome to my jungle.



All packed and ready to head down for breakfast.  A wonderful place to start our Costa Rica trip.


A refreshing guanabanaa, pineapple and coconut juice to start.


Yael.



Challah French Toast with sausage and a selection of fruit.


Our cabina at Soulshine.

   

One of a number of comfy lounge seating areas adjacent to the pool.


After a conversation with Yael as to how she and her family ended up in Playa Avellanas we were off - heading south along the Pacific coast to our next stop - Samara.


A massive Guanacaste tree just outside of Playa Negra.



A rural fixer upper.                                         A typical rural Costa Rican home.


The only problem is we had no idea as to half way to where ... so trust was needed.


Along with pineapples and coffee bananas are a staple of Costa Rica's agriculture.  Costa Rica is the third largest exporter of bananas in the world.


There are a considerable number of cattle throughout CR, including many of these Brahman Cattle.


The small but beautiful San Juanillo beach.


This fellow had this HUGE fish that he appeared to be trying to sell.  Not sure if the ladies were interested in the fish or just the photo opportunity.





Yes more CR cattle.


Which way?  Through the water or over the narrow one lane bridge?  We chose the bridge, as did these others although the road was wet from some who clearly chose the water route.


Certainly a relief to have made it to the other side of Rio Buena Vista.


A video of a truck crossing the river.                                   And another crossing in the same direction as we did.


Our brazen uninvited visitor, although in fairness momma likely needed food to nourish her young.





A Monster Margarita (which we shared) and Chimichanga's - vegetarian for Gayle and steak for Norm. 



February 09, 2025 - Playa Avellanas (Soulshine)
                                     with a trip in to Tamarindo

Today is a special day - it is Gayle's anniversary of the day of her birth, what most would call her 'birthday'.  We planned heading in to Tamarindo and eat at a beach front restaurant we very much enjoyed back in 2019.  However upon reflection given the dirt roads part of the way, we decided it was not appealing to drive back at night after a big dinne and as a result went in the afternoon and simply had a drink on the beach.

The drive from Soulshine to Tamarindo is a little over half and hour, the first half on dirt roads before reaching the 152 and ashphalt.  

With Pangas Beach Club virtually empty on this Sunday afternoon we took a table on the beach with a wonderful view across the estuary.

We each had a Margarita - me a basic but for the birthday girl a Guana-Maica - Don Julia Blanco tequilla, Grand Marnier, guanabanana, limon y un toque de infusion de flor de jamaica (a dash of hibiscus infusion).  She loved it, even at > $28 Cdn.

We returned to our vehicle along the beach where there were some horseback riders and many swimmng and surfing.  Gayle called this 'beginner' surfing as the waves were very modest.


We returned through Pinilla - a very small community of a couple of barren streets, a small church and a football field - one that did not need mowing as the free ranging cows took responsibility for that job. 

Then back to Soulshine where we cooled off with a refreshing swim as the temperatures had reached 36 C.  

Afterwards we headed off to see the sunset before dinner but didn't even make it out of the driveway when we saw a troop of monkeys (Gayle counted 14) in a nearby tree.  The tree did not have any foliage making photos easy.  We could have stayed there much longer, watching them jump from branch to branch but with the sun getting lower we headed off to the beach.  We couldn't get a table at the beach front restaurant so just decided to sit on a couple of (very comfortable) boulders from where we watched locals and families enjoy their Sunday afternoon, not to mention the pelicans, other birds and colourful sunset.

We then went to Il Rustico, an Italian restaurant where we enjoyed a superb meal.  Gayle started with a Prosecco before devouring her Ravioli Ai funghi porcini - all the flavour of an Italian autumn, four cheese filled ravioli with house mushroom cream, porcini mushrooms and truffle oil.  Norm also had a delicious pasta - Boscaiola - a delicate taste of the mountains in Alfredo style; short homemade pasta 'strozzapreti'; Italian sausage; mushrooms, sweet peas in sweet cream.  Although Gayle was full - the ravioli were huge - she could not resist a piece of tiramisu, presented with a candle and a serenade of Happy Birthday.

An excellent choice of restaurant and a wonderful meal.
 

As was now habit our morning started with our 8:00 
am coffee.


We had a light breakfast today of a loaf of Challah bread and a guanabana juice.


There were a number of these King Swallowtails but so hard to photograph as they never stayed on a flower more than a second or two.


Pangas Beach Club.                                                    Gayle enjoying her afternoon drink on the beach.


Self explanatory.


Our Margaritas.


The view from Pangas Beach Club.                                   Horseback riding along the beach.


Playa Tamarindo - very mild waves but still a surfing community.



Bananas along the roadside.


Iglesia Catolica San Jose de Pinilla.


The not so hopping main street of Pinilla on a Sunday afternoon.


Street traffic in Pinilla - no need for marked crosswalks - one can't miss these crossing the road.


Cattle taking priority on the road.


A troop of howler monkeys just outside of Soulshine.


We enjoyed watching their antics as they stretched and jumped from branch to branch.





These howlers appeared as interested in us as we were of them.



After a day at the beach time to bring in the surf boards. 


Playa Avellanas on a Sunday afternoon.


Enjoying the activity / families on the beach and the setting sun.


Pelicans in flight lit by the setting sun.


About to dive for dinner.






I took a lot of shots with this one being, in my opinion, the best.


Tonight we ate at Il Rustico, an Italian restaurant with a nice display of espresso pots and a large inventory of wine.



Gayle with a celebratory Prosecco.                                     A Margarita for Norm.


We thought about ordering the Brushetta but decided the pasta (large servings here in Costa Rica) would be enough ... and we were right.


Boscaiola


Ravioli Ai funghi


A delicious piece of Tiramisu to end a great meal.


Tiramisu for you.




February 08, 2025 - Playa Avellana (Soulshine)

Another relaxing do nothing day - this could be habit forming.

After our early morning coffee on our terrace we wandered down 11:00 ish for yet another massive breakfast.  More coffee along with a mango and passion fruit juice and then for Gayle the Chunky Avocado - a toasted baguette topped with lots and lots of avocado, pico de gallo and a fried egg.  Norm had the Falafel - a number of small falafel balls, Israeli salad, pickled onions, tahini and spicy salsa served with a fluffy pita.  It was all so very good.

The afternoon was spent relaxing around our cabina with some time spent in the pool - very refreshing.  The temperatures are in the 31 C to 33 C range - usually with a breeze so that it is not unbearably hot but actually quite pleasant.

We decided to check out Playa Avellana and the sunset before eating at a beachfront restaurant - La Parruja.  The beach was reasonably crowded even late in the afternoon.  We enjoyed the start of the sunset before finding a table at the restaurant.  Our server Diego was wonderful in getting us a second better chair, leveling the table and tracking down a few cushions to make us more comfortable.  We both ordered a Margarita which we sipped while chatting with Sarah and Jenni from New Jersey and Maryland respectively.  On occasion I would head down to the beach to get better shots of the sun as it set bit by bit.

Dinner servings were HUGE, and the food very good.  Gayle had the La Purruja Salad of lettuce, tomato, red onion, carrot, avocado, hard boiled egg served with toasted bread.  Norm ordered the Fruitti di mare pasta which was loaded with seafood covering tagliatelle in a creamy white sauce.  There was shrimp, calamari, a large tentacle of octopus, and fresh mahi mahi all seasoned with garlic, parsely and fresh parmesan.  A great meal in a great setting.

We returned to Soulshine where we worked on our travel blogs before turning in.


The breakfast area.                                                              About to dig in.


Chunky Avocado - the photo doesn't do it justice - it was HUGE!


Norm's Falafel breakfast.


On the left our mango and passion fruit juice, and below a close-up of the delicious falafels.


Paz.                                                                                    Our servers Dariany and Nestor.



Left - a colourful hibiscus.

Below, Gayle and Paz.


A couple of our Iguana friends.


Playa Avellana.


PURA VIDA!                                                                         La Purruja with tables on the sand.


Enjoying a relaxing time at La Purruja looking out over the beach with a margarita.


From where we enjoyed the sunset over the Pacific Ocean.



Sarah and Jenni (with an 'i').                                                Diego, our wonderful friendly server.


La Purruja Salad.


Frutti di mare pasta.



February 07, 2025 - Playa Avellana with an
                                   unexpected trip to Playa Negra

We slept well.  Somewhat surprisingly there were no howlers and few birds to wake us between 4:00 am and 5:00 am as is often the case here in Costa Rica.  

Breakfast starts at 8:00 am but goes through to 2:00 pm so we got a couple of coffees that we enjoyed on our verandah looking out over the pool, listening to the birds.

Eventually we wandered down to breakfast shortly after 10:00 am.  Reviews rave about the breakfasts here at Soulshine and it became apparent why when our plates arrived.  With a selection of 11 options Gayle chose the French Toast (made from challah bread, served with fruits and home made coconut caramel) and for Norm the Shak-Shoo-Ka (two eggs in slow cooked Moroccan style; organic tomato salsa, served sizzling in a pan, with challah, dips and green salad).  The selection of food, dips, fruit, and salad were all unique, tasty and spectacularly presented, most definitely living up to the reviews.  Each breakfast plate was $25 Cdn before tax and service - $30 after.  Drinks (coffee or juice) are additional.

The afternoon was spent relaxing in our room and / or by the pool.  As we were heading out around 5:00 ish Paz, the front desk representative mentioned to us she noticed our front left tire was a tad low and that she saw a nail in the tire that no doubt was the cause.  Paz was unbelievably helpful finding us a fellow in Playa Negra, five kms away who could and would fix our tire..  We arranged to meet at 6:30 pm.  On the way we took a short detour to a beach just south of Playa Avellana where we saw the early stages of the seetting sun.  From there it was a (very) slow drive to Playa Negra as the road was dotted with potholes that we were very careful to avoid given the potential of the nail dislodging.  

We arrived early (just after 6:00 pm) and waited half an hour or so for Fabio and Sonia to return from the beach / sunset.  What a wonderful couple.  After Fabio did his thing we chatted and took a few photos, incluging of their very friendly rescue dog - Luna.  While the prospect of a flat tire was very concerning the experience turned out to be wonderful.  Fabio fixed the tire quickly at a cost of $12 US ($17 Cdn) and we got to interact with Fabio and his wife Sonia.  It is quite rare to spend even a little bit of time with locals.  While we still wish we hadn't picked up the nail this was a wonderful outcome.

With the night market on in Playa Avellana we expected everthing to be busy so decided to eat in Playa Negra. We ended up at La Vida Buena where we ordered a large thin-crusted Caprese pizza - very good.  

We felt much more comforable driving back with our repaired tire, after our 'tiring' experience. 


Our day starts with robust Costa Rican coffee that we enjoy on our veranda.


We shared a juice with our breakfast - guanabana, pineapple and coconut.

The Shak-Shoo-Ka was accompanies by a tasty green salad.


Shak-Shoo-Ka - two eggs in slow cooked Moroccan style with organic tomato salsa, served sizzling in a pan, with challah bread, dips and green salad.


French Toast - made from challah bread, served with fruits and home made coconut caramel.


Colourful Caesalpinia Pulcherrima just outside our cabina.


Our room included a number of local, colourful artifacts.






A video of our cabina.


And a paper mache donkey we have called 'Donald'.         Not a hammock but a swinging outdoor chair.


Our cabina (#2).                                                                  Our pool view from our terrace.

 
A very cool pool shower.       White ginger - we think.       Soulshine's pool.


Playa Avellana.


A bit early but sunset over the Pacific Ocean.


The nail in our tire.                                                               Fabio getting to work.


Fabio doing his thing - removing the nail; plugging and sealing the hole; and adding air.


Fabio and Sonia.

Gayle and Luna.


Luna being friendly.                                                             Sonia and Gayle.


So happy to have our tire fixed.


For dinner we ended up a La Vida Buena, a wood oven grill and pizzeria in Playa Negra.





February 06 - Halifax to Montreal to Liberia, Costa Rica to
                       Soulshine, Playa Avellana, Guanacaste

A long day but a day that went smooth from start to end.  Our pre-arranged early morning ride to the airport arrived a few minutes early (Gracias Linda and Bill).  As a result of the cold our plane needed de-icing which had us arriving in Montreal a few minutes late resulting in a shortened stop in the Air Canada lounge, but still long enough to grab coffees, a Mimosa, some eggs, sausage and pastries.  

It was then on to our 5 hour 20 minute flight to Liberia, Costa Rica.  We're guessing it was due to leaving my knee braces on but as we approached immigration after deplaning we were directed to an expedited line where we were processed immediately - our guess being that we saved an hour.  We then easily connected with our car rental, shuttled to the off-site lot, picked up our vehicle and off we went. 

Our drive took us west a bit, then south to Santa Cruz, and then again west to Playa Avellana and the ocean.

It was indicated as a tad under two hours, which, with a few photo stops is what it turned out to be.

The last 10 km or so was dirt road with a number of potholes making us very thankful for having a high-clearance 4 x 4 SUV.

We arrived at our first lodging - Soulshine, a bit before 5:00 pm (7:00 pm Atlantic time with the two hour time difference).

Along the way we noticed this fellow looking up into a mango tree.  We're glad we stopped as there was a troop of howler monkeys throughout the tree.  Nice to experience the wildlife so soon after arriving.

After checking in we read our emails and then went out to get something to eat.  We ended up at an open air food court place - La Esquina where we sat at a 'picnic table' and had a smoothie from one vendor and some food from another - a brocolli and cheese vegetarian empanada and fries for Gayle and a Gaucho - braised beef, lettuce, mozzarella, chimichurri mayonaise, goucha sauce sandwich with french fries for Norm from an Argentinian Grill.

While the food was tasty and hit the spot we did experience considerable 'sticker shock'.  The (small) plate of (admittedly good) French fries was 5,000 colones or over $14 Canadian.  Norm's sandwich was tasty but at 8,700 colones or nearly $25 very pricey for what it was.  

We know Costa Rica is not inexpensive but this seemed a bit much, particularly when we are not in a major tourist town.  It certainly does not help that the value of the Canadian $ versus the Costa Rican Colon is down 9% over this time last year.

We returned to Soulshine where, tired we turned in before 8:00 pm.


A long travel day starting with a 3:30 am wake up to catch our 6:05 am flight to Montreal.  From there we connected to a direct YUL to LIB flight to Liberia, in the north of Costa Rica.

We flew down the eastern seaboard of the US, across Cuba, Honduras and finally Nicaragua before reaching CR and landing in Liberia.  

It was -18 C when we departed Halifax but, as promised, 32 C when we landed in Liberia.

After clearing immigration, picking up our luggage, and connecting with our car rental we were on our way.   

A father and son tending their fruit stand.                                    Melons and citrus fruit.


Typical Costa Rican cows.           And a modern day Costa Rican cowboy - on a motorcycle rather than a horse.
  

Along the way there was this troop of howler monkeys in a mango tree.




We ate at Fuego Vivo, an Argentinian Grill, in a food courtyard.

Our pineapple, ginger and mint smoothie.


A vegetable empanada.                           (Very expensive) fries.                      A braised beef 'Goucho' sandwich.



Back to CostRica - February 06, 2025 to March 04, 2025

Again this February we will be enjoying the heat and sun of Costa Rica - this being our 8th winter trip to Costa Rica in the past nine (missed 2021 due to COVID-19).  This trip will start in Guanacaste Province where we land in Liberia.  We will pick up our rental vehicle and work our way south through the Nicoya Peninsula from where we will take the ferry to Puntarenas and head as far south as Dominical where we will return to Pacific Edge Eco Lodge.

 
Our full itinerary, with our lodgings are: 
We then cross over to Puntarenas and continue south for
  • 1 night at Capulin just outside of Tarcoles  
  • 4 nights at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge near Dominical
  • 6 nights at Le Jardin de Los Monos a go to stand by in Matapalo Beach, and finally
  • 1 night at the Hampton Inn near the San Jose airport due to an early morning flight home