February 28, 2012 - March 14, 2012 - islands of Maui and Kauai, Hawai'i
One of Gayle's mom's 'bucket list' trips was to visit Hawai'i. Unfortunately it never happened but after her passing we decided to take a trip in her honour.
We visited two islands - Maui and Kauai - a week on each. In retrospect it was a good decision. Each island is not so big as to require two weeks; perhaps 10 days but not longer. We were glad to have experienced two different islands; each with very impressive landscapes.
February 28, 2012 - Halifax to Maui, Hawai'i, via Toronto and Los Angeles
A long day of travel - up at 3:00 am for a 5:45 am flight from Halifax to Toronto where we connected to a flight to Los Angeles. We had a three hour layover in LA before catching a flight to Maui. Just two minutes short of 14 hours in planes during a total trip duration of 19 hours 11 minutes from take-off in Halifax to landing in Maui (at 5:56 pm).
We picked up our rental car and drove a short 15 minutes to Mama's Fish House, a well known restaurant with some accommodation. We were booked into a luxury junior suite. The really good news is the Canadian $ was pretty much at par, averaging $1.02 to the US$. The not so good news is that prices are pretty high in Hawaii. With taxes our room at Mama's Fish House was $368.60 per night. That said it was a very nice room - no view of the ocean but a large room with a nice outdoor alcove area.
Maui, Hawai'i
Note - as this 'travel blog' is being added over 8 years after the trip, and without good records of what we ate at each meal, or generally the cost it will not be as informative as other trips. I will do the best I can with the limited information available.
Today was a pretty relaxing day after our long journey yesterday. As it was dark when we arrived we didn't have an opportunity to walk the beach until this morning. In front of the restaurant is a very sandy beach dotted with a number of palm trees and outrigger canoes. Upon looking at one of the canoes both our mouths dropped. Each canoe is named and this one had the name 'Leila', Gayle's mother's name - identical. The previous year while visiting the Czech Republic we had a somewhat uncomfortable experience of encountering an elderly women in a village only a few kms from the town where my grandmother grew up, a woman who had the appearance and all the mannerisms of my mother. And then now to choose the island of Maui, and then furthermore the Inn at Mama's Fish House, and then to see this dugout canoe with Gayle's mothers name painted on the bow, was quite something, and once again a bit uncomfortable. Somehow we both felt this was a signal that this trip, in honour of Leila was simply meant to be.
After our walk around we went into the village of Paia where we found a cafe for brunch - an interesting mix of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine. The afternoon was spent relaxing (we may have even had a nap) before taking a drive around the area, one that eventually landed us in the town of Makawao, the hub of the 'upcountry' dominated by agriculture and ranch land. In Makawao we found a Mexican restaurant where we enjoyed another fine meal of authentic Mexican food.
As it turns out 'Leila' is the grand-daughter of the owner of the Inn and restaurant. While a very uncommon name at home it is apparently more common here in Hawai'i, not unlike Laila.
The menu presents two distinct cuisines with crepes and appetizers offering a taste of France and the Mediterranean along with curries providing the genuine taste of Indian home cooking. We tried one of each.
March 01, 2012 - The Inn at Mama's Fish House and Haleakala National Park, Maui
Today was a trip to the interior of Maui and Haleakala National Park, home to the dormant Haleakala Volcano and the endangered Hawaiian goose, the nene (more common on the Big Island). Haleakala was originally part of Hawai'i National Park dating back to 1916 until it became it's own national park in 1961. The name means 'house of the sun'. According to local legend the demigod Maui imprisoned the sun here in order to lengthen the day.
There is a winding but well maintained road that leads up the mountain to the summit and Haleakala Crater, the main feature of this park. Technically it is an erosional valley dotted by numerous volcanic features. There are two main trails that lead into the crater from the summit area where hikers can stay in a few cabins. The summit is well-known for visitors very early in the morning for sunrise or at dusk for sunset - we did neither. In terms of plants the park is well known for the silver-sword, which grows here but nowhere else on Earth.
In-spite of being beautiful and warm at the coast it got progressively cooler as we ascended to the summit, which ultimately rises to 10,023 feet. For the most part desolate we drove through the clouds, eventually returning to the sunshine. Certainly the silver-swords were very impressive, glistening in the sun.
We descended the mountain to the coast where we spent a little time on a sandy beach before returning to Mama's Fish House for dinner. The restaurant, opened in 1973, is famous for it's daily catch of fresh fish. The walls were adorned with photos of numerous actors, actresses and musicians who had enjoyed a meal at Mama's. Was it pricey - yes - a Mai Tai was $16, the French Onion Soup was $16, the Tahitian Ceviche $24 and the Bouillabaisse $58 - all US$, plus tax and tip. But sometimes one has to block out the cost and just enjoy the wonderful ambiance and food. And yes the meal was excellent.
Beautiful flowers throughout the restaurant.
Mam's Fish House menu.
A colourful table-cloth. We purchased one that we use regularly.
Maui Onion Soup with Gruyere cheese.
March 02, 2012 - The Mauian Hotel, Lahaina, Maui
We left the Inn at Mama's Fish House this morning for the north-west side of Maui. The hour and a half drive (plus photo stops) took us along a dramatic coastal drive, past blue waters and crashing waves.
Our next three nights will be at the Mauian Hotel in Lahaina, a small beachfront retreat on the beautiful crescent-shaped Napili Bay. Set amidst two acres of lush gardens and fragrant plumeria trees, the low-rise property is known for its nostalgic 1950s tropics architecture and laid-back ambiance. The horseshoe shaped two-story complex (reminding us somewhat of the West Wind Inn on Sanibel Island, Florida) was nice enough. We had a Partial Ocean View Studio with a couch and outdoor patio from which one could see the ocean. The property was nicely landscaped with direct access to Napili beach.
Unfortunately Gayle was starting to feel a bit under the weather so we decided to eat in. We picked up a few things at the nearby general store and enjoyed the spectacular sunset from the property.
A few final images of the Inn at Mama's Fish House beach.
Sunset over the west coast of Maui.
March 03, 2012 - The Mauian Hotel, Lahaina, Maui
Not much happening today. Gayle was quite ill, spending most of the day in bed which effectively meant we stayed at the Mauian throughout the day.
Around the corner is the Napili Kai Beach Resort and its Sea House Restaurant. While the Mauian provided breakfast there was no actual restaurant. We enjoyed a nice meal at the Sea House, overlooking the beach and the bay.
March 04, 2012 - The Mauian Hotel, Lahaina, Maui
Another 'stay at home' day as Gayle continued to struggle. However she did experience a highlight when she saw a whale breach in the channel beyond our hotel. Although I didn't see it Gayle was beyond excited.
For dinner we went to Duke's, a nearby restaurant. Duke's is name for Duke Kahanamoku (1890 - 1968), the father of international surfing and six-time Olympic medalist in swimming and water polo. The Waikiki beach boy became a hero, a legend and a leader of the Hawaiian people. Duke inspired generations around the world with his strong concern for human values and dignity. As Hawaii's official Ambassador of Aloha, Duke personified and presented the spirit of genuine hospitality and fellowship, traits promoted in his restaurants. After a delicious meal we purchased a couple of T-shirts - one for me and one for Paul. The gift must have left an impression with Paul as he named his rescue cat 'Duke'.
March 05, 2012 - Lahaina to Hana, Maui - Hana Kai
Our last two nights in Maui were spent on the far north-east corner. It is quite the drive along the north coast (and apparently even more so on the south coast where the roads are not all paved). Unfortunately the weather was not the best - grey and overcast but it was scenic none-the-less, with coastal scenery, crashing waves, lush rainforest and a number of waterfalls.
Hana, like most of Hawai'i was probably first settled between 500 and 800 AD by Polynesian peoples. The first sugarcane plantation in the areas was established in 1849. By 1893 there sere six plantations operating in the area. However all had shut down by 1946, leading plantation workers to move mostly to the west side of Maui. At the same time an inn opened, starting the transition of the economy toward tourism. The winding, famously scenic Hana Highway was completed in 1926 providing the first land vehicle access to the town. The town's population peaked in the first half of the twentieth century, when the plantations were active, reaching about 3,500. Since then it as declined to today's level of a little over 1,200.
Hana's climate is hot and wet (on average of nearly 80 inches of rain per year ) year round, typical of a tropical rainforest.
We booked a resort condominium unit at the Hana Kai. It was nice - spacious with a balcony with great views out to the ocean. Although it had cooking facilities which we used for breakfasts we ate out at night. Tonight we ate at the Hana Hotel Restaurant where we had a decent meal.
March 06, 2012 - Hana, Maui - Hana Kai and Haleakala National Park
Although not a great (weather wise) day we hiked the Pipiwai Trail, a four mile (6.4 km) round trip hiking trail through the Haleakala National Park, designated as such in 1976 and expanded in 2005. The park is named after a dormant volcano within its boundaries, and covers an area of 33,265 acres (52 square miles), most of which is a wilderness area. The highlights are two waterfalls - Makahiku and Waimoku Falls. The well maintained trail runs around the Ohe'o Gulch Stream through bamboo forests and past a giant banyan tree. Ultimately one reaches Makahiku Falls, a 200 foot (61 m) horsetail waterfall that flows in to the Ohe'O Gulch stream. It was an enjoyable hike - not too long and not too strenuous - through some interesting bamboo forests with the 'prize' of the waterfall waiting at the end.
For dinner we decided to do take-out from Cafe Romantica, serving a gourmet menu of vegetarian cuisine and desserts. 'Auntie' Lori creates each dish from scratch, with options ranging from Swedish cream of potato soup to tomato and mushroom quiche. The menu includes soups, chilled salad and pastas, assorted International entrees, and classic desserts. Popular menu items include vegetarian crepes, tofu tandoori and veggie-burger Wellington. The extensive dessert list is comprised of Kona coffee tiramisu, Hawaiian chocolate truffle, apple strudel and Hawaiian coconut haupia pie. We ordered a few dishes and desserts that we took with us back to our condo where we ate on our balcony overlooking the ocean.
March 07, 2012 - Hana, Maui to Turtle Cove, Kauai
Our last day on Maui. We started the day with leftovers from Cafe Romantica after which we went for a walk on the beach in front of Hana Kai. Although once again overcast the sea was reasonably calm.
We enjoyed a leisurely drive west along the scenic Hana Highway, stopping a few times where there was easy access to the water. We detoured a bit inland to Hali'imaille General Store and Restaurant where we had another meal of tasty Mexican food.
After our mid afternoon meal we headed to the airport for our one hour Island Air flight to Kauai.
Lots of colourful flowers - after all it is Hawai'i.
Memories of Maui:
The highlights from our week in Maui:
- the outrigger canoe with Gayle's mom's name - Leila
- the food at Mama's Fish House, especially the Bouillabaisse
- the 'western' feel of the up-country
- great Mexican food at Polli's
- surfers
- perhaps it is less so in Wailea but the general relaxed vibe of the Island
- Haleakala crater and the silver swords
- the drive around the north-west of Maui
- Gayle seeing a whale breach
- Duke's
- the Hana Highway
- volcanic black beaches
- the Pipiwai Trail and it's bamboo forests and banyan tree
- Makahiku waterfall
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 US$ = $1.02 Cdn):
Regrettably beyond the costs of our lodgings I cannot locate records of what we spent on airfare, food, vehicle rental, tours or souvenirs.
One observation is that while relatively expensive, which was not surprising, the food in Maui was interesting and good
Lodging at the three places we stayed in Maui ranged from a low of $267 US$ to a high of $369 US$. Here are the places, the amounts we paid (in US$ but the exchange rate was essentially at par) and a link to their website.
$ 369 The Inn at Mamas Fish House Paia www.mamasfishhouse.com
$ 295 The Mauian Lahaina www.mauian.com
$ 267 Hana Kai Hana www.hanakaimaui.com
March 08, 2012 - Sheraton Kauai Resort, Poipu, Kauai
With the flight on-time we arrived as planned on the east coast of Kauai, picked up our rental car and easily drove the half hour south to Poipu Beach where we found our Coastline Cottage on Turtle Bay. However the cottage was locked (there was no key as arranged, and peering in the window it was clearly not made up for guests. We called a number of times all with no answer, and found Wifi access from which we sent an email. Again no answer. We sat. We waited. We tried again. Nothing. Now dark we decided to book a nearby Sheraton. As we were pulling up to the resort we finally heard from Lori who apologized profusely, saying a close friend, someone she had taught piano to as a youth, had passed away. With the funeral and everything going on she did not have time to deal with preparing the unit we had rented. In fact she had arranged for us to stay in another condo unit (one that turned out to have a fabulous view of the ocean and honestly much better than the place we had booked) but communicating so had slipped her mind. Of course she covered the cost of the Sheraton. In the end, while there were many concerning moments upon arrival we had a night at the Sheraton and four nights at an upgraded condo, so it all worked out.
After checking out of the Sheraton we moved over to a beautiful (and huge) condo at Whalers Cove. By the time we had settled in it was into the afternoon. We decided to take a drive west along the south coast of Kauai first through Hanapepe with its well known swinging bridge, then past Waimea and on to Kekaha Beach.
The Hanapepe Swinging Bridge is a popular attraction, originally built in the early 1900s as a way for residents to cross the river. After Hurricane Iniki destroyed the bridge in 1992 it was restored and reinforced. The fact the bridge seriously rocks and sways is appealing to children (and the child in some of us adults).
Kekaha is a beautiful sandy beach from where we enjoyed a stunning sunset.
We stopped at the Grove Cafe in Waimea for dinner, in part because there was a group of men playing traditional Hawaiian music. Gayle enjoyed a vegie burger while I splurged on the Surf & Turf. Great food with great music.
The sun setting at Kekaha Beach.
March 09, 2012 - the east coast of Kauai, Whalers Cove Resort, Hanakaape Bay
Not much happening today. Overcast and raining it was not a great day to see much. So we relaxed in our condo, making ourselves breakfast with the few supplies we picked up yesterday. It improved marginally in the afternoon so we decided to take a drive up the east coast. The weather was such that I didn't take many photos and those I did are rather dreary. We did however find a very nice restaurant for dinner where we enjoyed a great meal.
We drove up the east coast to Kapa'a where we had an superb dinner at the Hukilau Lanai Restaurant.
Shrimp and chicken for my main course. A molten lava cake for dessert.
March 10, 2012 - Waimea Canyon State Park, Kauai
Today we returned to Hanapepe and Waimea where we turned north and drove up to Waimea Canyon State Park. The park, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, is a large canyon of up to 3,000 feet deep, accessed by a 16 km long road on the western side of Kaua'i. Waimea is Hawaiian for 'reddish water' a reference to the erosion of the canyon's red soil. The weather was ok - generally cloudy which precluded good views out to the ocean but clearing enough for a few photos that captured the magnitude of the valley. A worthwhile drive and an enjoyable day.
We returned to Whalers Cove and had another wonderful dinner at the nearby Beach House Restaurant, overlooking the ocean. The food here in Hawai'i is expensive (thank goodness the exchange rate is so good) but very good - unique, interesting and delicious.
Dinner at the Beach House Restaurant starting with a ceviche served in a coconut shell.
Gayle had the Portobello Mushroom while I the seafood Penne Pasta with scallops and shrimp and a tasty pesto sauce.
March 11, 2012 - Boat tour of the Na Pali coast, Kauai
One of the highlights of Kaua'i is the dramatic Na Pali coast on the west side of Kauai'. The Na Pali Coast is a sacred place defined by extraordinary natural beauty. The emerald-hued cliffs with razor-sharp edges tower above the Pacific Ocean, revealing beautiful beaches and waterfalls that plummet to the lush valley floor. The rugged terrain appears much as it did centuries ago when Hawaiian settlements flourished in these deep, narrow valleys, existing only on the food they could grow and the fish they could catch.
We booked a tour with Kauai Sea Tours. The 4 hour sightseeing dinner cruise ($88 US) on the Lucky Lady promotes itself as sailing with pods of playful dolphins. During the sail we were to learn about the history and legends of Na Pali and the abundant marine life. During the months of December through April humpback whale watching is a highlight of the tour, and indeed we did see a whale early on. Dinner included appetizers, meat and vegan options, dessert and drinks of beer, wine, Mai Tai's, Island-style juices and sodas.
In spite of the questionable weather the tour went ahead. The first part, as we headed west on the south side of the island was ok. We saw a few turtles and a whale. All good. But as we turned the corner to head north on the west side and the actual Na Pali coast the seas got rougher and the queasiness of the guests greater. Once the first guest became ill it was like a series of dominos. Of the dozen or so guests on the tour only one was not ill - Gayle! In fact she was the only only to actually eat any of the dinner buffet. Me, not so fortunate. Clearly when over 90% of a tour's guests are ill there was a poor judgement in allowing the tour to leave the dock. As to dinner - who knows - by the time the food was put out no-one (except Gayle and the crew) were in any state to eat. All in all not a good experience.
Not having anything to eat on the trip, later in the evening, after a bit of recovery, we went out for a pizza.
It was dark and overcast and generally miserable. But we did see a whale (and a few turtles).
March 12, 2012 - Smith's Tropical Luau; Dilly Dally House, Kauai
We left Whalers Cover today to move to an actual Bed and Breakfast - the Dilly Dally House about half way up the east coast near the town of Kapa'a, a five guestroom home in the hills a bit inland. A wonderful welcome basket awaited us in a very nice room. The grounds, with artwork, many flowers and a nice pool was a joy to relax in. Breakfast (this is the first place we stayed on this trip that provided breakfast) was enjoyable, especially the selection of local fruits and juices.
After an afternoon of relaxing we took a drive around the area before going to Smith's Tropical Luau for a show and dinner. Over 40 years ago this family business in the sacred Wailua River Valley was the brainchild of 'Granpa' Smith. The tropical paradise was created to celebrate the Hawaiian spirit of aloha. Four generations of the family continue to honour the tradition with the most famous Hawaiian celebration - the luau. The heart of any luau is the pa'ina, the feast. Kalua pig, after being roasted in the earthen imu oven is served along with teriyaki beef, ono mahimahi and chicken adobo. Accompanying the meal is Grandma's poi. While food may be the heart of a luau, music is the soul. During dinner guests are invited on stage to demonstrate their hula moves. Hawaiian ancestors preserved their history by passing down songs and chants called mele. At the luau these traditions are celebrated as well as the songs and dances from other cultures that live in tropical paradises. The lyrical sway of the Hawaiian hula, the colourful precisions of the Tahitian drum dances and the fiery emotion of the Samoan fire knife dance all speak deeply of the people who have come to call Hawaii home.
It was both a filling (the meal) and entertaining (the music) evening. Cost $88.00 US each (now, i.e. 2020 $108.00 each)
March 13, 2012 - North-east Kauai
Today we toured the north coast (well most of it) of Kaua'i. The previous week (while we were in Maui) Kaua'i experienced torrential rains, so much so that the Governor declared a state of emergency. The north was cut off with highways closed necessitating helicopters to evacuate guests from the Kaua'i Princeville. Sadly a hiker lost his life when swept out to sea by the rapidly rising Wainiha River. We drove as far as we could but were unable to cross the Lumaha'i Beach to Tunnel Beach or Ke'e Beach.
While returning we stopped at the Kaua'i Princeville Resort, a splashy resort and golf course on the north end of the island where we had drinks overlooking the ominous skies. A very nice break.
We worked our way back south were we ate at the Hippie Cafe in Kapa'a, a funky cafe focused on healthy eating / organic food.
March 14, 2012 - North-east Kauai
Our last day in Hawai'i. After another nice breakfast we checked out of the Dilly Dally House but yet had the whole day ahead of us before a 5:40 pm flight to Maui from where we had an overnight flight to Los Angeles, and then to Toronto and then to Halifax. We spent the late morning driving - first into the hills near Komokila Hawaiian Village (although we did not go in). We then returned to the coast where we spent some time on the beach. Next we stopped for a light lunch at Tutu's Soup Hale where we shared a salad and some tasty cinnamon buns.
While at the Smith Family Laua we became aware of a short boat tour up the Wailua River to the Fern Grotto. A very nice way to spend our last afternoon with local musicians playing as we motored up the river in Wailua River State Park. The destination is the Fern Grotto, an unusual fern-covered cave set in a tropical garden. The trip provides scenic vistas of the Opaeka'a Falls and Wailua Falls, along with the Wailua River valley. The Wailua Complex of Heiau is a National Historic Landmark, being the remains of heliau (places of worship), pu'uhonua (places of refuge) and birthstones at this once important seat of chiefly power in old Hawai'i.
After the boat trip we returned to the coast where we enjoyed one final drink before heading to the airport.
The musicians on the boat.
Memories of Kaua'i:
Highlights of our week in Kaua'i:
- the upgrade to Whalers Cove Resort Condo
- the food - dinners were particularly good
- the Smith Family Luau
- the Hanapepe swinging bridge - it was kinda cool
- Kekaha Beach and the setting sun
- music at the Grove Cafe and on the Smith boat tour to the Fern Grotto
- the drive to Waimea Canyon
- while not in a good way the boat trip along the Na Pali coast was 'memorable'
- sitting on the terrace of the Princeville Kaua'i enjoying a drink
- the true B&B feel of Dilly Dally House
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 US$ = $1.02 Cdn):
Regrettably beyond the costs of our lodgings I cannot locate records of what we spent on airfare, food, vehicle rental, tours or souvenirs.
One observation is that the food was somewhat expensive, although not surprising. That said it was goodWe only stayed at two places on Kaua'i ranging from a low of $176 US$ to a high of $389 US$ (the coast of our booking at Coastline Cottages. We understand Whalers Cove, where we were moved to, is actually somewhat more expensive). Here are the places we stayed, the amount we paid (in US$ but the exchange rate was essentially at par) and a link to their website.
$ 389 Coastline Cottages / Whalers Cove Poipu www.whalerscoveresort.com
$ 176 Dilly Dally House Kapaa closed
