Our memories of Costa Rica 2024:
Yet another great and interesting trip to Costa Rica, our 7th in the past eight years, with a number of wonderful memories, including:
- becoming grandparents on Gayle's birthday
- gorgeous orange sunsets at Dolphin Quest, Pacific Edge and Playa Matapalo
- another wonderful meal and chat with Maite at Exotica
- the sounds of the insects, birds and howler monkeys
- Gayle getting up and out well before sunrise on a regular basis to listen to wildlife
- returning to Jardin de los Monos where the monkeys are plentiful and playful and the sloths visit frequently
- seeing and being able to take decent photos and videos of the sloths at Jardin de los Monos
- dinner (especially the steaks) at the Matapalo Supper Club, as well as re-connecting with Daniel and Darlenny
- Costa Rican 'Typico' breakfasts
- delivering beanies to the students at Escuela La Carbonera
- swimming in the Pacific Ocean at 7:00 am at Playa Matapalo
- the cool crabs at Encanta La Vida, including one in the pool
- Gayle's walk to / from Backwash Beach
- Cheeky, the Dolphin Quest resident green parrot
- hammock time at Pacific Edge and Encanta La Vida
- the views over the jungle / rainforest to the coast from Pacific Edge
- the laid back vibe at Pacific Edge, and re-connecting with Michaelynn and Sid
- Sid's delicious banana pancakes for breakfast
- dinners at Scala, especially the chocolate mouse, and Gusto
- the dolphins seen on our boat ride to Dolphin Quest
- the caiman on the path after dinner at Dolphin Quest
- the over-all experience at Dolphin Quest, including our open-air cabina
- the squawking Scarlet Macaws and dolphins at Dolphin Quest
- Chef Richy and the beautifully presented and tasty meals at Dolphin Quest
- the sea snake in the middle of Golfo Dulce
- the 3-D web of the Golden Silk Orb Weaver spider
- swimming in the warm calm waters of Gulfo Dulce
- the early (5:00 am) wake-up call of the howler monkeys at Encanta La Vida
- the howler monkey show we enjoyed in the tree adjacent to our 'Love Shack' at Encanta La Vida
- seeing spider monkeys for the first (at Encanta La Vida)
- our wonderful hosts Lettika, Sid, Michaelynn, Reymar and Alana
- others met - CeCe, Sarah, Tammy, Andrew, Bex, Floyd, Tsering, Monika, Birgit,Claudia, Dustin and Betty
- other Costa Rica staff we interacted with during our stays - Jerald, Darlenny, Dama, Teddy, Alana, Yolenny
- daily fresh fruit and fruit drinks / smoothies
- the surfing vibe of Cabo Matapalo
- the crashing breakers at Matapalo beach, which goes on and on and on in both directions (13 km we were told)
- the many birds and their early morning songs at Escondida Guacima, Dolphin Quest and elsewhere
- the fact we spent so much time just relaxing and enjoying what Costa Ricans call 'Pura Vida'
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A few 'animal's and 'birds' seen in trees. The sloth is our companion NAGTA (Norm And Gayle Travel Abroad) while the Scarlet Macaw and Toucan are for our new grandson Jett and soon to be granddaughter.
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 US$ = $1.3716 Cdn):
Here are the costs of our 24 day trip:
$ 457 airfare, albeit we booked with Aeroplan; seat selection
$ 6,756 lodging ($281 Cdn $ per night)
$ 2,533 food ($110 Cdn $ per day for dinner etc. including wine); breakfasts are included in lodging)
$ 2,231 vehicle ($1,856 or $81 per day for the vehicle; fuel and tolls of $174; parking and taxis of $201)
$ 0 souvenirs
$ 492 tours (dolphin and bioluminescence)
$ 110 miscellaneous - primarily tips
$12,579 for 24 days
The total cost excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $12,122 or $505 per day, with increased lodging and food costs.
Following are the average costs of our four previous trips to Costa Rica.
- $383 in 2017 (17 days)
- $410 in 2018 (5 days)
- $325 in 2019 (19 days)
- $345 in 2020 (24 days)
- $767 in 2022 (15 days) - reflecting the considerable costs at Golfo Dulce Retreat
- $426 in 2023 (21 days)
- $505 in 2024 (24 days)
Food and drink continues to be relatively expensive in Costa Rica, along with vehicle rental. One might expect in a Central American country food to be cheaper than here in Canada. While there is the option to eat at less expensive local 'sodas', prices in restaurants and even supermarkets are generally comparable to, if not more than Canadian prices. Vehicle rental, which was quite reasonable pre Covid-19, skyrocketed in 2022 with prices more than 3 x what they were as recently as 2020. The vehicle rental costs decreased considerably the past two years year but were still nearly double what we paid in 2020.
Lodging ranged from a low of $125 US$ (our last night near the airport) to a high of $209 US$. All included breakfast (although breakfast is optional at Pacific Edge we have added the cost to the lodging rate).
Here is a list of where we stayed, the amount we paid (in US$) and a link to their website.
$ 67 Escondida Guacima Guacima (SJO) www.guacimaescondida.com
$ 252 Tiki Villas Uvita www.tikivillas.com
$ 168 Pacific Edge Domincalito www.pacificedgedominical.com
$ 192 Dolphin Quest Golfo Dulce www.dolphinquestcr.com
$ 343* Encanta La Vida Cabo Matapalo www.encantalavida.com
$ 154 Jardins de Los Monos Playa Matapalo www.bnbbythebeach.com
$ 106 Escondida Guacima Guacima (San Jose) www.guacimaescondida.com
* total daily rate of $418; $75 allocated to food; $343 to lodging
As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each place, and in doing so save the establishment the booking commission. As well often we are known to staff when we arrive.
A reminder of our observations if visiting Costa Rica:
- always rent a 4 x 4 SUV if only for the greater clearance, and
- if driving, never arrive for the first time on an unfamiliar road at night
And finally as they say throughout Costa Rica ... enjoy the Pura Vida! (the Pure Life)
March 01, 2024 - Escondida Guacima to Montreal to Halifax
A smooth day. With the delay in our flight we were able to enjoy one final breakfast before heading out at a civil hour of 9:00 am. One missed turn but we easily got back on the correct road and made our way to the car rental return office where all went without any issues. A shuttle to the airport, check in and we boarded our flight to Montreal, leaving on schedule.
With the nearly three hour delay leaving San Jose the connection in Montreal was a bit tight but we made it by 20 minutes before scheduled boarding. Back to Halifax just before midnight (although 12:30 am before we got our luggage) and a taxi home where we were very very surprised by a warm welcome arranged by Bev (and Brian and Chris) who had been looking after Duke, our cat.
The photos below are a bit repetitious of yesterday's but the birds in particular were so easy to photograph I couldn't resist presenting them again.
February 29, 2024 - Escondida Guacima, Guacima
Our last full day in Costa Rica. Due to late arriving flights and morning departures out of necessity we have had to stay in the vicinity of the San Jose airport a number of times. Where we have stayed have been 'ok' but we have yet to find the 'perfect' place. Until now, at least before departing. Rather than staying only one night as has been our habit we decided to relax and spend two nights (one full day) at Escondida Guacima. Good choice. The grounds are very nice, with an 'out in the country feel'. There are many birds and even a few chickens. It is particularly enjoyable waking up to the 'orchestra' of birds (even if at 5:00 am). Our room was large with a beautiful outdoor shower, a nice terrace with comfortable chairs and a coffee-maker for us to enjoy an early morning coffee. Breakfast is very good, there is a nice pool and a bar for drinks throughout the day. Plus there is a 'basic' restaurant - nothing exciting but the availability of a few dinner offerings to avoid having to go out to eat.
The only downside is that Escondida Guacima is nearby to a park / racetrack and unfortunately today there was a motorcycle race nearby that generated a significant amount of noise. But otherwise we were very happy with our choice and will return.
The communal breakfast area is ideal for meeting and interacting with other travelers. Today we met two English couples (actually Bozena was originally from Poland) who while not knowing each other actually stayed at the same places twice on their trip and were flying back on the same flight. We enjoyed a nice chat about travel experiences, including their stay in a home-stay. Gayle and Bozena had a lot in common as they chatted about fungi, in that Bozena was somewhat of an expert on fungi in Poland.
Breakfast offered a number of choices but both of us chose the Typical - Gallo Pinto (rice and beans), an egg, tortillas, a piece of Costa Rica 'squeaky' cheese and plantains, along with juice and coffee. Delicious.
Just off the breakfast / restaurant area papaya was placed on a post attracting a significant number of birds, wonderful to photograph in the morning sun.
We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon leisurely packing and spending time in the pool.
During the day we were notified our flight was delayed. Rather than departing at 10:10 am, which would have necessitated us leaving at 6:00 am to return our rental vehicle, the flight was re-scheduled to 12:45 pm, still allowing us enough time to make our connection in Montreal to Halifax. Beyond not needing to rush to get out as well we were able to enjoy one last Costa Rican breakfast.
We again ate at the restaurant where we had simple, but quite tasty meals of vegetables and rice for Gayle and chicken and rice for Norm.
There were a significant number of birds at Escondida Guacima. Here are some of them, with attempts to identify them thanks to Mr. Google.
Fruits in the breakfast area. The Typical breakfast of tortillas, an egg, cheese, rice and beans and plantains.
Sandra Jonathan Bozena Andy
February 28, 2024 - Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
to Escondida Guacima, Guacima
Our last morning in Matapalo / Jardin de los Monos. After waking up early to listen to the songs of the many birds we went down to the beach where we enjoyed a short swim (well more like a wade) in the ocean, jumping through the waves. While on the nearly vacant beach a French woman, who had been carving out messages in the sand, just wandered over and offered to take our photo. Very nice of her.
We returned to los Monos where we had breakfast during which we ended up chatting with a number of Germans. First there was Claudia and then Monika (who Gayle had met the previous day in the pool) and her cousin Birgit. While my telephoto lens is decent, allowing me to take some respectable photos of wildlife at a distance, you should see Birgit's lens, and some of the photos she has taken with it. Stunning. Along with their husbands they have traveled / camped in the south of Africa - South Africa, Namibia and an upcoming trip to Botswana. Their travels make us realize that as much as we have traveled (and it has been a considerable amount) there are so many other interesting places out there still to see.
While we were still having breakfast Claudia returned to let us know the sloth and her baby were quite visible. We are very appreciative she did as this was the best opportunity we had experienced for viewing the nearby sloths. Most often they are camouflaged in the foliage of the trees. But today they were quite visible and active, allowing for some decent photos and videos.
After a final chat with Lettika we finished packing and were on our way.
Perhaps the most significant industry along this coast between Matapalo and Jaco is that of African palm oil, introduced by The United Fruit Company in response to the Panama banana plight of the 1940s. Palm oil is a widely used vegetable oil in various industries including food, cosmetics and biofuels. In Costa Rica the development of African palm farms gained momentum in the 1960s and 1970s. The Costa Rican government actively supported expanding the palm oil industry, considering it a lucrative economic venture. Government policies, including tax incentives and subsidies, were implemented to encourage the establishment of palm oil plantations. The introduction and expansion of African palm in CR has been met with praise (contributing to economic growth, generating employment and diversifying the agricultural sector) and criticism (negative environmental and social impacts, deforestation, habitat destruction and conflicts with indigenous communities). The industry continues to be contentious in Costa Rica.
The drive to Escondida Guacima is more or less three hours, north up the coast and then inland towards San Jose. Our lodging was very easy to find / access from Highway 27. We booked a nicer room for this two night stay than when we arrived (not that the room then was not nice enough). Normally we would simply stay one night but the place looked nice, at a good price point, with grounds and a pool so we decided to extend to two nights. Good decision. Escondida Guacima also has the benefit of serving food throughout the day and into the evening. Nothing fancy but very convenient.
Gayle started with a plate of French Fries and a vegetarian version of Aztec soup while Norm had Bitterballen (Dutch meatballs) followed by a burger along with a banana smoothie. As said, not a five star meal but it was all we needed, and only a 30 second walk back to our room.
After a long day it was immediately lights out.
February 27, 2024 - Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
Today, our last full day at Jardin de los Monos, was more of the same. A leisurely breakfast after which we checked out the sloths in the nearby trees. Photos are getting better but still wait (for even better photos).
We had two beanie babies left and where Dama's daughter was very soon to have another child it was a no-brainer to give them to her. Dama is a very loyal staff member who Lettika tells us gets up each morning shortly after 4:00 am to catch the 5:00 am bus from her home near Quepos to arrive by 6:00 am to have breakfast ready for guests by 7:00 am. And, other than during Covid, she never misses a day! Very loyal and very committed to her job.
We again hung out around the property / pool, photographing butterflies, fruit, flowers and in the late afternoon the monkeys that regularly visit.
Soon thereafter we took the short walk to the beach where we waited for and enjoyed yet another very colourful sunset. It never gets old.
Dinner our last night of course was at The Matapalo Supper Club where Gayle had the spaghetti in a cream sauce of mushrooms, carrots and gorgonzola while Norm had another large tenderloin steak. After dinner we had a nice chat with Daniel who told us of his plans to take Darlenny to Greece in September / October, to some of the places he enjoyed in his youth. The plan is to drive from Germany on motorcycles, camping along the way. We are very fortunate to have developed such a great relationship with two restaurant owners in Costa Rica - Maite at Exotica in Ojochal and Daniel and Darlenny here at the Supper Club in Matapalo.
We returned to los Monos happy and full.
Dama and Teddy.
February 26, 2024 - Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
As a result this may be the shortest travel blog post ever.
After a day of slothing around we again enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
Then it was off to dinner where Gayle had a mushroom pizza with mozzarella cheese, a touch or gorgonzola and basil, while Norm went with what turned out to be a heaping portion of spaghetti in a creamy mushroom sauce with shrimp. The other option was repeating the huge tenderloin but that would make three nights as there was no doubt that was going to be the choice our last night.
During dinner we enjoyed a lengthy chat with Betty and Dustin from Kentucky. They had just arrived from a number of nights in Puerto Jimenez and shared stories of their extensive travels. Like others they expressed the view that they were looking at options in Portugal if the political winds in the US blow the wrong way. Before we knew it it was nearly 9:30 pm - way beyond the normal time we have been calling it a night here in Costa Rica but it was worthwhile and interesting to have chatted.
February 25, 2024 - Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
Teddy, originally from Jamaica, los Monos' new hire served us breakfast this morning as Dama had the day off as there was a shower for her daughter who is expecting very soon. For the same reason The Matapalo Supper Club was closed tonight as Darlenny was also attending the shower.
For breakfast I had the Granola while Gayle enjoyed the Dutch pancakes.
We saw a sloth again today but once more he / she was buried amongst the branches making a decent photo not doable. But wait a few days - some much better photos.
The afternoon was again spent working on the travel blog, relaxing and cooling off in the pool.
We went back to the beach shortly after 5:00 pm for the sunset that did not disappoint. Beautiful colours!
Where the Supper Club was closed we went to El Ticanero for dinner. A typical roadside restaurante that was not busy (one takeout pickup while we were there). We each had a drink. Shortly after bringing Gayle her Pina Colada our server brought over a second pitcher of 'leftovers'. For dinner we each had a burrito - vegetarian of course for Gayle and res, or beef for Norm. As well Norm had a Sopa de Marisco, or fish soup. Not the best sopa de marisco I've had - I am convinced it was water rather than coconut milk as ordered, but good just the same.
It was a 10 km drive back from Hatillo to Jardin de los Monos after which we again called it an early night - lights out by 8:30 pm.
Teddy, los Monos' new hire.
February 24, 2024 - Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
We started with Lettika's delicious breakfasts of orange juice, a fruit smoothie (watermelon today), coffee and a choice of
- Option 1 - ham, an egg (fried, scrambled or an omelet) and two large pieces of delicious homemade toast
- Option 2 - a Dutch pancake - between a North American pancake and a French crepe, with egg, or
- Option 3 - granola with fruit and yoghurt
While finishing breakfast we heard the sound of a toucan. There were a couple in the nearby trees so off we went with our cameras. Then Lettika spotted a sloth with her baby sloth, so again off we went. The good thing about trying to photograph a sloth, as opposed to birds or butterflies or dolphins is that while they may turn about in their resting place you really don't have to rush, i.e. you can move slowly as the sloth itself remains mostly stationary. Unfortunately sloths often will wiggle themselves between branches making photos sometimes difficult. Those below are ok although not great. Lettika mentioned to us that she is aware of 10 sloths in the nearby area - both two and three toed species.
The afternoon was spent working away on our travel blogs interspersed with swims in the pool and perhaps a nap.
For dinner we reserved at The Matapalo Supper Club where upon arriving we were welcomed with huge hugs from Darlenny. Gayle was not feeling the best so limited herself to the Tzatziki with German bread (Daniel the owner / chef is German). I went full meal - a salad to start followed by a 400 g tenderloin with peppercorn sauce and home style potatoes. The nearly 1 lb. steak was superb for $40 Cdn all in, well less than a comparative meal back home. It was a lot but I did manage to finish it all.
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Flowers around the breakfast area - on the left Ixora or Jungle Geranium and on the right Wild Orchid.
Gayle, not being super hungry just had a bowl of Tzatziki while Norm had the large tenderloin steak with potatoes.
February 23, 2024 - Encanta La Vida, Cabo Matapalo to
Jardin de los Monos, Matapalo
Alana had arranged a visit to the nearby escuela (elementary school) to give beanie babies / beanie buddies to the students. Escuela La Carbonera in Cabo Matapalo opened in 1991. There are two classes - a Kindergarten of six students taught by Linda and all other grades - 18 students - taught by the Director Alexandra.
We enjoyed a wonderful visit with every student (as well as those not in attendance today) receiving a beanie baby / buddy. We first visited the Kindergarten class where the excitement was obvious. Then it was on to the older grades where students chose from the large pile starting with the youngest, working up to the oldest.
This is the 5th time we have done this and although the 50 to 75 beanies each time do add weight on the trip down the reward of seeing the smiles on these students is well worth it.
With a few short expected stops (for gas, groceries and to check out a possible lodging for a future visit) we arrived shortly after 4:30 pm.
This is the 4th time we have stayed at Jardins de los Monos (Garden of the Monkeys). As Lettika was out we were met by the new staff member Teddy, originally from Jamaica. When we opened out door we were so very impressed to see a huge Welcome Back in flower petals on our bed. So thoughtful.
Our favourite restaurant The Matapalo Supper Club was booked solid so we ended up at La Esquinita, just up the road. Gayle had the nachos, while Norm a huge serving of spaghetti with large tasty shrimp.
After a long day it was back to los Monos where we called it a night.
February 22, 2024 - Encanta La Vida, Cabo Matapalo
Yesterday we got to know Andrew and Bex, from Cornwall, England. Andrew is 'working' at Encanta La Vida for two weeks leading yoga classes twice a day - early early morning, i.e. 6:30 am and then again in the afternoon. His partner Bex was with him this, the first week. We have met a number of people here including Alana, an intern working at the lodge. Only 18 Alana has great ambitions. Being fluent in German, Swiss, English and of course Spanish will provide here many opportunities. She was very helpful to us throughout our stay, including joining us on our visit to the local escuela (school) - more tomorrow. Then there were the two Lisas - one from the north-west and another from Rhode Island, a professor who has lived a very interesting life travelling / working extensively throughout the world. And then Floyd and Tsering from Seattle with their sons. All a joy to chat with. Plus we got a great complement from Kalden, the 16 year old son of Floyd and Tsering who apparently described our travel blog as 'cool'! Made my day.
Mid afternoon Alana wandered down to our cabina to update us on our school visit after which we had a nice chat about her move to Germany (in which she is fluent) to attend university. Then Andrew, Bex and Lisa dropped by to check out the 'Love Shack'. Again we enjoyed a great chat.
Shortly after they left we heard the howls of the howlers, quite close. Soon they were even closer, in fact in the huge tree that covers the roof of our cabina. For nearly an hour they put on a magnificent show. We had considered going on a sloth tour today, but being an hour plus drive each way, most along a rough dirt road, in the end we decided to stay put, which turned out to be a great decision. The Howler Monkey show was something we will never forget.
A bit about Howler Monkeys. They inhabit the forests of Central and South America, producing one of the loudest vocal sounds of any land animal. They are one of the largest New World monkeys and are the most abundant species of monkey in Central America.
Howlers
- have side-opening, wide nostrils on their short snout
- lack rump pads, as Old World monkeys have
- use their prehensile tail as an extra arm to grip or hang from branches
- have beards and long, thick hair that may be brown, red or black, with brown or blond saddles
- can weigh up to 22 pounds
- have a head and body that can be up to 3 feet long, with a tail that can be another 3 feet
- have a big neck and lower jaw in order to house their super-sized vocal cords.
Howlers inhabit both lowland and mountain habitats. They are less susceptible to the effects of habitat destruction than the spider monkey, and as such are not endangered.
Every child in Costa Rica learns how to imitate the sounds of howler monkeys. It's tradition. And while howlers are not particularly aggressive, they definitely sound as if they are. The thunderous males address each other (very) early every morning, before sunrise. The spine-tingling cries can carry as far as 3 miles in even the densest jungles. They also call out at dusk and if a trespasser comes too close as a way of keeping rivals at a safe distance. Females have loud wails and groans that usually signal distress or calling a stray infant.
Howlers live and travel in troops of 4 to 19 members, each having its own territory in which it feeds and lives; the size of the territory ranging from 3 to 25 acres. Generally members of the group are not related because members of both sexes leave the group before becoming sexually mature.
The biggest threat to howler monkeys is habitat loss due to clear cutting and logging. In many forests howlers experience fragmented corridors that prevent them from moving freely from tree to tree. This may force them to relocate to areas that are less habitable. Forest fragmentation, in addition to limiting food sources precludes reseeding. Howlers play an important role in reseeding forests. As they eat and travel through the canopy, they drop seeds or brush against them, or seeds pass through their digestive system, falling to the forest floor.
After the show came to an end we headed to the pool and then on to dinner where we enjoyed a squash ceviche and curry with plantain, rice, garbanzo beans, cucumber, pineapple, tomato and beets for Gayle, replaced with shrimp for Norm. Dessert was a light cake.
Then back to our cabina to wait for the awakening of the howlers again in the morning.
Lisa.
February 21, 2024 - Encanta La Vida, Cabo Matapalo
We were welcomed to breakfast by a number of Costa Rican jungle crabs scurrying about. The one who decided to take a swim in the pool was somewhat less welcome (staff quickly fished him/her out once notified, albeit that was after Gayle had had her swim).
Breakfast was comprised of the fruit plate (watermelon, banana, pineapple and mango) followed by scrambled eggs with potatoes, avocado and a tortilla.
The rest of the morning was spent at out cabina. Our correspondence referred to our very private, with the feel of having been transported into the middle of our own rainforest as the Honeymoon Cabina. But the website and other materials identify the cabina as the 'Love Shack'. Regardless, it is a beautiful accommodation - very large with front and back porches, including a hammock and a bench-swing on the front. The shower has large screened 'windows' providing a great view of the rainforest. It is a bit of a walk to the lodge, in parts along a gravel pathway and in other parts stones, but very doable. We absolutely love this place.
We then enjoyed a swim after which it was time for lunch. We were served quinoa covered with avocado for Gayle and Mahi Mahi for Norm.
The afternoon was spent relaxing at our cabina with a visit of a few spider monkeys.
Another swim and dinner that started with beet soup, followed by a sweet potato mash covered with mushrooms for Gayle and Tuna with a mango sauce for Norm. Again not only extremely attractively presented but delicious as well. For dessert we had a refreshing pineapple and passion fruit sorbet.
During the day there were intermittent showers (this is supposed to be the dry season but ....) and again on our walk back to the cabina after dinner. Having been up early we were again to bed early.
Who actually likes to swim in the pool!
February 20, 2024 - Encanta La Vida, Cabo Matapalo
Gayle was up early spending her time on the bench-swing on our porch, listening to and watching for the wildlife. A perfect start to the day.
We then headed over to the lodge for breakfast which each morning consisted of a plate of fresh fruit, a fruit drink and a main plate. Today's was Huevos Rancheros on tortillas. Again beautifully presented and delicious.
It was then back to our cabina - named the Love Shack where we relaxed and worked on the travel blog until we were off again for lunch. On a couple of occasions we saw an agouti wander by. An agouti (ah GOO tee) is a rodent from Central and South America that looks a bit like a really large guinea pig. Its coarse hair is covered with an oily (and stinky) substance that acts like a raincoat. The hair is longest on its rump (which Gayle has observed is particularly cute). The agouti has five toes on it s front and three on the hind feet. It walks on its toes, not flat-footed like many rodents, giving the agouti a dainty look, or so our research says. Although it is hard to see the agouti does have a tail: it is very small, looking like a dark jelly bean stuck on the rump.
Lunch was a plate of rice with chicken, a salad and some plantains for Norm while Gayle was served quesadillas with plantains.
In the afternoon we were treated to monkeys. Costa Rica has four species of monkeys
- the large and noisy mantled howlers, with the males weighing an average of 7 kg / 16 lbs
- the slightly larger spider monkey
- the white-faced capuchin monkey, and
- the smallest being the squirrel monkey
The spider monkey is considered 'endangered' while the squirrel monkey is classified as 'vulnerable'. There is currently no concern re the viability of the howler and capuchin monkeys.
Today we heard (but did not see) the howlers but saw both the spider and capuchins. Monkeys are like birds in that it is often very difficult to get decent photos as they are often hidden by tree branches and leaves, and are usually at some distance. That said I was able to get a few fairly decent photos (below).
After a late afternoon swim we had dinner that tonight started with carrot soup followed by avocado (there certainly is no shortage of avocados here) for Gayle and Dorado (a fish) for Norm on a mash of sweet and yellow potato accompanied by a variety of vegetables. Dessert was a flan like cake (pineapple we suspect).
We finished dinner, made our way back to the 'Love Shack' and straight to bed.
Breakfast starts with a plate of fruit and a fruit drink.
And a main plate - today Huevos Rancheros.
This is a Spider monkey.
A number of these agoutis passed our cabina A capuchin and her baby.
February 19, 2024 - Dolphin Quest to Encanta La Vida, Matapalo
We hopped into the boat to cross the Golfo Dulce back to Puerto Jimenez. Normally a half hour crossing the gulf was unusually choppy today resulting in a 45 minute bumpy boat ride.
But we did arrive in Puerto Jimenez with no problem where we picked up our rental vehicle (again no problem) and continued on our way.
Only a couple of kms out of Puerto Jimenez the pavement ends and it is a rough dirt road (max speed 40 kph) to Cabo Matapalo, about a 45 minute drive. We had taken this road in 2017 to Carate with nothing having changed.
We checked in late afternoon into a very nice isolated cabin nestled in the rainforest. We were told there would be animals and birds that regularly visit, which turned out to be the case.
Our booking included three meals a day. Unlike the buffets at Dolphin Quest dinner was comprised of a soup, a main dish and dessert. The main dish was modified for Gayle. For example tonight Norm had chicken with vegetable and potatoes while for Gayle the chicken was replaced with avocado, but otherwise the dish was the same. The meal was very attractively presented and very good - a sweet plantain in coconut milk broth to start, the main as mentioned and pie de limon for dessert.
It is a relatively short walk back to our cabina (albeit we are the furthest from the lodge) often over a path of stones. Like Dolphin Quest we turned in almost immediately after returning.
Not surprisingly rice and beans.
right.
A grasshopper.
A golden silk orb-weaver.
February 18, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Golfo Dulce
We had a number of nice chats with each of them, including their experience seeing three snakes on the way back to their cabin last night, and the more significant number of bats they were encountering as compared to us.
We again enjoyed a swim in the Golfo, ate well, we took lots of photos of flowers and trees, and of course birds including a number of scarlet macaws who were reasonably visible in the trees near the beach.
Reymar's brother Jahza arrived providing us the opportunity to meet and chat with him.
After yet another gorgeous sunset we enjoyed a dinner rice noodles with tomato sauce (either mushrooms or beef) and some sailfish, named due to their large dorsal fin, or 'sail'. The sailfish is one of the faster of the marine creatures and very popular with recreational fishermen, despite the meat apparently being of little value (although this was quite tasty). The highly recognizable fish can grow to be over 10 feet long. For dessert we had a crispy pastry drizzled with a tasty hibiscus reduction.
After dinner we went out on a Bioluminescent Tour, as we had done two years ago when staying at nearby Golfo Dulce Resort. After sunset the Golfo Dulce is host to a natural phenomenon where the disturbance of the water from the passage of a boat, a hand or swimmer in the water or jumping fish leads to a unique biological light show where minute organisms produce their own bioluminescence. Best seen on a moonless night unfortunately we were only two days from the full moon, i.e. it was quite light on the Golfo and as such the bioluminescence was for the most part a dud. But we did have a nice time none-the-less sitting out in the Golfo with some wine / beer and chatting with Sarah and Tammy.
It was very strange to not go to bed until nearly 11:00 pm - normal bedtime here is between 8:00 pm and 9:00 pm.
All in all a good day.
Rice is a regular staple, always including beans or with the beans as a side.
The Dolphin Quest beach.
One of a number of stone artifacts at DQ.
February 17, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Golfo Dulce - dolphin tour
Within five minutes of pushing off we came across a couple of bottlenose dolphins. They never came super close to the boat but were always around. They are so quick to surface and then plunge it was tough to get great photos but there are a few. We then meandered along the gorgeous coast with emerald green waters, past a number of roosting Brown Pelicans. Then it was out further in the Golfo in search of spinner dolphins. We did find some but they were even further distance from the boat. Afterwards we circled back, passing a number of seabirds including an Atlantic Brown Booby that landed on the top of our boat for a bit of a rest. We returned towards the shore where work was being done to rehabilitate a coral reef here in the Golfo. Past some nice shoreline with beautiful palm tree and we were back after a three and a half (3 1/2) hour tour. You will notice in one photo we are in long sleeves, quite unexpected given the heat and humidity. However we were advised that even with sunscreen it was advisable to wear long sleeves in order to avoid getting sun burnt.
Immediately upon returning it was straight into the water for a refreshing swim. Wonderful! While in the water we could hear and see a significant number of scarlet macaws in the trees along the shore. I was able to get some decent photos of them in the trees although was not as successful when they were in flight. They are so quick.
Dolphin Quest has a pretty decent soccer / football pitch, made all the nicer with a fresh mow. A number of fellows, and one girl, from nearby eco resorts got together for a game. We could barely stand the heat on the sidelines watching, and cannot imagine how hot it must have been to play.
Afterward we met Tammy, a volunteer here for two weeks and Sarah, a guest here for three nights. After being the only guests here last night (although Reymar, CeCe, Richy and other staff joined us for dinner which was really nice) it was equally nice to meet and chat with a couple of other travelers.
Tonight was 'pizza night'. Who expected pizza here in the jungle? But pizza we got, and excellent pizza at that. We each had our own pizza after choosing whatever toppings we wanted from a large selection. The pizzas were delicious as was the dessert of chocolate and coconut on a pineapple ring. Again we went back to our Casa very content.
A more active day than most for us but very enjoyable. Other than the heat it is real hard not to love Dolphin Quest.
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Perhaps a Fabacaea Orchid Tree.
Chef Richy spread out the dough and covered it with sauce before having each person choose their toppings.
February 16, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Golfo Dulce
Dolphin Quest offers a number of tours including
- dolphin and whale quests - in the Golfo
- fishing - further out in the Pacific Ocean for sailfish, marlin, tuna and dorado.
- hiking - behind the property to a waterfall up in the Piedra Blancas National Park
- snorkeling - on local reefs of the Golfo Dulce
- bioluminescent night cruise - to experience the glow of light created when algae clashes with oxygen or motion, and
- yoga - to the sounds and sights of the scarlet macaws, toucans, hummingbirds and butterflies.
Dolphin Quest is located within the Piedras Blancas National Park that protects rainforests and beaches near the Golfo Dulce. It used to operate as part of the the Corcovado National Park under the name Esquinas Sector from 1991 before becoming its own park in 1994. Until the mid-90s much of the forest in the park was severely endangered by logging, hunting, illegal fishing and the threats of an ecologically destructive paper mill, all dastard endeavors in which Dolphin Quest played a significant part dissolving.
Another success story is the cooperation of Reymundo and Zoo Ave founder Dennis Janik to address the issue of illegally poached animals, who once confiscated by authorities were simply kept in cages until their death. Zoo Ave purchased land adjacent to Dolphin Quest with Reymundo and Dennis who created a Release Project. Over 20 years later the project is a thriving success story. Confiscated animals are now given to the release project for rehabilitation and re-introduction to the wild. A variety of bird and mammal species that were practically extinct to the area are now successfully re-populated and reproducing. This has generated enormous pride, with the only downside being the need to endure a few more squawking macaws and parrots each morning.
Just before lunch Reymar invited us to join a small group visiting Dolphin Quest for an explanation of the various health elixirs - many of which he has to start each day. There is Kambucha, Tumeric Tonic, Fermented Noni, Starfruit Wine and Gavilana (Jack Fruit Bitters). We then joined the small group (of four) for lunch.
The afternoon was spent enjoying the macaws in the nearby trees, working on the travel blog, napping and enjoying a swim in the Golfo, where the water is apparently consistently between 80 and 85 degrees.
Dolphin Quest runs an intern program where volunteers come to work on the grounds for the price of their meals. Cecelia, originally from Mexico, had been here for a couple of weeks but enjoys it so much she is extending her stay. Then there is Vlad from South Africa who captains a fishing boat but had a few days off during which he joined his bud Reymar to help out..
Although two other couples had left Kate and Maddi were still here, along with Reymar for dinner. Reymar shared his story of the sinking of his boat a few years earlier during a considerable storm. He and other divers searched and searched the waters of the Golfo with no success. Then 18 months later someone noticed a boat surface. Apparently the motor broke away resulting in the boat surfacing without its weight. The boat was filled with lobsters, all of which were shared with those who helped Reymar salvage his pride and joy.
Tonight's meal consisted of a carrot (and some other stuff) salad, avocado, mashed potatoes, a dish of cooked vegetables and flank steak. For dessert a tray of Lobi-lobi on bread, dehydrated bananas, chocolate and figs.
After which the short walk back to our cabin, a quick check of emails, lights out and soon to sleep.
For breakfast always a plate of fruit - here apple bananas, orange, papaya and pineapple.
And today a bowl of fresh avocado to spread on the toast (Gayle was in heaven).
Basking in the sunlight of the setting sun.
Enjoying the sunset from the Dolphin Quest beach.
February 15, 2024 - Dolphin Quest, Golfo Dulce
Most of the day was spent in our cabina where the internet is excellent - so nice to be be able to sit on our porch listening to the birds and insects as we work away on our travel blogs.
A bit about Dolphin Quest. Raymond (known as Reymundo) Klochko, from Detroit, knew from a young age that he was meant to live in Costa Rica. However Dolphin Quest was in large part inspired by his late daughter, Taisha, who became sick and passed away at the age of four. Taisha's favourite activity was visiting aquariums where she developed a special connection with the dolphins, so much so that the dolphins would deviate from their training to visit the side of the tank where Reymundo and Taisha sat. The memory of the duo's experience with the dolphins inspired Reymundo to explore further.
Shortly after he purchased the first 10 acres of Dolphin Quest land before ever seeing the property. With no money but a great deal of hope and determination Reymundo traded his purple '69 BMW for the land. A year later he arrived on the beach clutching a photo of what would become Dolphin Quest. It was an emotional moment, culminating a year since Taisha's passing and his arrival in Golfo Dulce, Costa Rica. He collected crystals and rocks from the beach and built an altar in remembrance of Taisha. Later while practicing Tai Chi, a sprouted coconut floated from the ocean to land between his feet on the shore. This became the perfect final piece in Taisha's memorial garden. The following year, Reymundo committed to bring his idea of Dolphin Quest to life and brought a converted bus, with four people, a dog, a boat, a guitar, a motor, dive compressors and fishing gear from Northern California to Golfito through the Contra War ... a story for another day.
In spite of the heat and humidity we're not sure we are going to lose any weight here. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, all served buffet style so one can have as much as one wants are all both delicious and filling,
During the afternoon a flock of scarlet macaws visited a nearby tree providing the opportunity for a few photos of these beautiful birds, although unfortunately none in flight.
We both enjoyed a nice swim in the Golfo prior to the sunset. It is so relaxing and peaceful to swim in the very warm, calm gulf waters and then enjoy the colours of the sky resulting from the setting sun.
After dinner what will no doubt become common practice, it was back to our cabina and straight to bed.
Signs on the property.
Chef Richy (left).
A fresh salad and a bean with chicken dish.
February 14, 2024 - Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito to
Dolphin Quest, Golfo Dulce
The drive from Pacific Edge to Puerto Jimenez is a tad under three hours during which we made three stops. The first was just south of Palma Norte when Gayle saw a flock of scarlet macaws. We pulled over and I got out to get photos. A few not so great ones of the birds in the trees while patiently waiting for 10 to 12 minutes (Gayle thought it was more like 20) until I decided enough was enough, put the camera away and began to cross the road back to the vehicle when of course a dozen or so brightly coloured macaws flew out of the trees in formation. Spectacular sight but no photo. Gayle, and the grave-digger nearby had the biggest laugh at my frustration.
About a half hour north of Puerto Jimenez we stopped to check out La Perica Sloth Farm, a place we had read about. While staying in Caba Matapalo in a week's time we will make this a day trip and do the sloth tour.
And finally we took a narrow road in to Playa Sandalos where we packed in order not to have to open the trunk where we are going to leave the vehicle in Puerto Jimenez. We easily found Miguel's adjacent to the dock where we were told we could securely park our vehicle (for $10 per night) and shortly thereafter were met by Alejandro and another Dolphin Quest fellow at 3:00 pm right on schedule. They transferred our backpacks and bag to the boat and we were off for the half hour crossing of the Golfo Dulce.
Only minutes out of port we were fortunate enough to see a couple of dolphins, and then a number of sea birds (terns) during the crossing.
We arrived at Dolphin Quest where we were met by Reymar, the owner of the Jungle Lodge. Just offshore was a National Geographic cruise boat with 95 guests wandering the Dolphin Quest grounds.
Reymar took us across the soccer field, past the lodge where meals are served and on to our cabina. Casa Verde is a one-story bungalow closest to the beach. It was the first rental built at Dolphin Quest, being the most popular with the most character. It was built over 30 years ago of local hardwoods and bamboo harvested seasonally from the property. The space features a front porch, a back patio and a living room. There are hammocks, a kitchenette, basic solar electricity and especially great for us Wi-Fi - the only cabin with Wi-Fi. Casa Verde offers one double bed and two twin beds in an adjacent room, all with mosquito nets.
After settling in to the completely open-air Casa, taking a number of photos and catching up on emails it was then to the beach / golfo for a swim and sunset. The Golfo Dulce water is literally bath temperature, it is so warm. While waiting for what turned out to be a gorgeous sunset we met 'Cheeky' the resident green parrot.
Dinner, created by chef Richy, is served buffet style with guests eating together at a communal table. Tonight's dinner consisted of a salad, beans (of course), rice (of course), vegetables and fish in coconut milk, served with a beer or glass of wine along with flavoured water and a local fruit (e.g. nona) drink. Food - breakfast, lunch and dinner is $50 (US) each per day for as much as one wants of very tasty, interesting, well prepared and presented food.
Although only 8:00ish when we finished dinner, upon returning to our cabina it was straight to bed after a busy day.
A video and a number of photos of the Boruca masks.
Our captain and his mate.
Gayle all settled in for the crossing of the Golfo Dulce.
Happy Valentine's day.
February 13, 2024 - Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito
Sid and Michaelynn Vandiver had been guests at the property since 2008, and when the time came for the original owners to 'retire' they purchased the Eco Lodge due to their love of the simplistic natural beauty of the property. Sid and Mica took over March 2021, living full time at Pacific Edge. They have retained that 'Keys' Jimmy Buffet vibe (from where Sid originated). Michaelynn has re-opened a Boruca Art galley with a large selection of authentic traditional masks, and soon will add a gallery of local artwork, jewelry (including her own), photography and other local artisan gifts.
For breakfast today we both chose burritos, Gayle's with onions and Norm's with chorizo sausage. Excellent.
There was not much reason to leave the property during the day ... so we didn't. We thought of going to a beach but with a nice pool and majestic views we ended up staying put. We again had a nice long chat with Sid, and later on Michaelynn, including late breaking updates on the drama involving their Homeowners Association.
After a refreshing swim we headed to nearby La Parcela where we had a few issues with dinner last year. The manager responded well, including an offer of a free dinner that we decided to take him up on. Unfortunately he was not there and his wife, who was tending bar had not got the message. As a result we were first seated at a table adjacent to the speakers - one of our issues last year. Fortunately we were moved. We were very pleased to see a number of our issues re the menu had been addressed. But after we finished our meal the bill came with no adjustment. We mentioned it to the waiter - Chris was excellent - who quickly had the bill adjusted. Not perfect but all in all good.
The ambiance and food were both very good. Gayle started with a creative Ceviche de Aquacate - Avocado Ceviche - avocado marinated in orange juice, mango and fresh herbs with Patacones. Norm had the traditional fish ceviche, this one using Black Marlin. Gayle then had the Quesadilla - melted mozzarella cheese, red onion, jalapenas and chopped cilantro inside toasted flour tortillas, with crispy fries, while Norm the Sopa de Marisco, a mix of shrimp, crab, squid and octopus in a broth with herbs and spices in coconut milk. Again way too full for dessert.
It was a short ride back to Pacific Edge after which we did what we normally do - crash straight to bed.
Red Ginger Turnera Ixora Yellow Ixora
Heliconia Blue Porterweed Arundina graminifolia
February 12, 2024 - Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito
We then went for breakfast where we both enjoyed Sid's banana pancakes. We had fond memories of them from last year and were not disappointed. Again light and fluffy, and tasty with the bananas.
For three days Gayle has struggled with a loss of hearing in her right ear. On Friday the ear blocked with only muffled sounds being heard. We went to a pharmacy where we bought some ear drops. They may have softened up the wax but still no sound so we went to a nearby medical clinic where the doctor confirmed the ear was blocked, and then did his magic to remove the blockage. Not only can Gayle hear but the anxiety and concern over asking people to repeat themselves, selectively sitting so I was on her left side, and the prospect of flying all disappeared. Happy Happy!
We then spent the afternoon working on the blog and expecting to have a swim but ended up chatting with Sid for a considerable amount of time. That's the great thing about many of the small (Pacific Edge only has four cabins) boutique hotels we stay at in that we often connect with the owner (and other guests). No question we feel like family here with Sid and Michaelynn.
Again we saw no particular reason to leave the property. We are beyond needing a bunch of activities - both due to age and the fact we have done most of them - but rather enjoy relaxing where-ever we are staying. Give us a pool, the feeling of being in a rainforest, a little wildlife, expansive vistas, good Wifi and the opportunity for an afternoon cocktail and life is perfect.
For dinner we went down the road to an Italian restaurant - Gusto. Located on a hill with a wonderful view to the ocean and a decent angle on the sunset we felt like we were actually in Italy. The Italian accent of our server was so strong there were responses to questions, like what is in the gnocchi, neither of us could barely understand, and that is with Gayle's now good ear. We treated ourselves to a bottle of Italian wine - a Morellino di Scansano that we quite like before starting with Crostone, two pieces of homemade bread one covered with garlic sauce, honey and pecorino sardo with the other avocado and parmesan cheese. Norm then had the Mezzemaniche Amatriciana, a pasta with tomato sauce, guanciale (cured meat from pork jowls) and pecorino. There was no question what Gayle was going to have once she saw a Bufalino pizza on the menu - a simple combination of tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella and basil. Everything was delicious. And as much as Gayle wanted the Tiramisu for dessert she (and I) were just too full to even consider ordering. It may seem a bit strange to come to Costa Rica to eat Italian but our meal was eccelante, provided by immigrants from Italy, in this case just north of Rome.
This morning's wildlife, beyond the howls of the howlers and the songs of the birds.
The squirrel was only a few feet from our cabina while the hawk sat in a tree in front of us.
Last Friday (today is Monday) one of Gayle's ears stopped functioning, i.e. it was blocked. She could not hear a thing out of the right ear. It was quite troubling let alone frustrating as she could not engage in conversations. We went to a pharmacy for some ear drops but the issue persisted. So we went to a nearby medical clinic where a doctor confirmed Gayle's ear was completely blocked. He did his thing, removing the blockage, and she feels like a million dollars. Well worth the $180 US.
February 11, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita to
Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, Dominicalito
Upon arrival we were met by Michaelynn and Sid as old friends. They even arranged for a troop of monkeys to greet us! The view from the property to the coastline is something that will never get old. Looking across the top of a dense rainforest to the waves crashing on the shoreline is hard to describe, and something photos just can't quite capture.
After a relaxing afternoon, including a swim we enjoyed a beautiful sunset before heading out to Scala, a very nice restaurant we ate at twice last year. It was surprisingly not very busy (perhaps due to it being Super Bowl Sunday?).
The food is not only delicious but very nicely presented. Gayle started with Vegan Cauliflower Croquettes with peach palm sauce and citrus threads while Norm had the Scala Ceviche - the catch of the day, onion, avocado, bell pepper and tree tomato. We chuckled when after finishing Norm asked what the fish of the day in the ceviche was to which we were told "white fish". That much we could tell. Upon further probing the waiter said 'catfish' although I'm not so sure he didn't just make up something. For our main meals Gayle had the Vegan Curry served with tumeric sauce, coconut and spices, vegetables and rice, with Norm having the Chicken Ballotti - a chicken roll stuffed with goat cheese (or at least so is said but I couldn't find any) vegetables and 'anchiotada' mushroom sauce. As we had last year we finished by sharing a Chocolate Mousse, which was every bit as good as we remembered it.
Below dew drops on the hedge in front of our villa.
No doubt should have had the Tiki Villas signs at the beginning but better late than never.
February 10, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita
Even breakfast was not overly exciting with both of us again ordering the traditional Costa Rican breakfast, served with a bowl of fruit and freshly made passion fruit juice. We guess when we like something we are good repeating.
During the afternoon there was of course pool time in water that is more bath temperature rather than that of a traditional pool. Work on yesterday's 'celebration x 2' travel blog, and simply chilling here in the rainforest was pretty much it ... and of course a mid afternoon nap, or two.
For dinner Gayle had a Falafel Sandwich, pita bread with falafel, served with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, red onion, avocado aioli and yoghurt mint sauce while Norm enjoyed garlic shrimp with rice and vegetables.
February 09, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita
But then late morning our daughter Katrina messaged us to tell us she had given birth to Jett Jacksen Forbes earlier than expected. All is great - Jett and mom are both good. Of course the arrival of Jett is very exciting but all the more so in that it is on Gayle's birthday. The news called for a bottle of bubbly which we enjoyed by the pool.
Before dinner we returned to Don Roger, a restaurant we stopped in last year just south of Uvita with a great panoramic view of the Whale Tail (although not actually visible due to the tides) where we enjoyed drinks while watching, along with many others, the colourful setting sun.
We were warmly welcomed at Exotica by Maite who we have gotten to know quite well, this being the 4th time we have eaten at Exotica. The ambiance of the restaurant is wonderful, the service excellent and the food beautifully presented (every dish with edible flowers) and delicious. Norm had the Costa Rican Ceviche to start while Gayle sipped on a tasty strawberry Margarita. Norm then had the Chicken with Peanut Sauce while Gayle ordered her regular Pasta Strogonoff - smothered in a vegetarian creamy tomato sauce with fresh mushrooms, white wine and vodka sauce - for the 4th consecutive time. If you love something why not continue to enjoy. The same goes for dessert where we again had the Bananas Flambe with ice cream, delivered by Maite with a sparkler to the music of Happy Birthday. We chatted at great length with Maite before taking a number of photos by and with her. It is so special to have connected with someone who has taken such an interest in us and our travels. Beyond a doubt if we are back in the area we will be back to Exotica.
Lots to celebrate today - both Gayle turning 68 and the birth of Jett, our first grandchild.
Of course at Exotica Gayle enjoyed an exotic drink.
With Maïté.
February 08, 2024 - Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge, Uvita
We started the day with a large breakfast beginning with a fruit salad, fresh fruit juice - passion fruit today, coffee and a choice of half a dozen options. Gayle stuck with the Costa Rican while Norm filled up on a large serving of Huevos Rancheros.
The rest of the day was relaxing - either by the pool - others must have been out on tours / activities as we had the pool all to ourselves, starting the travel blog, and having our obligatory nap. It is definitely hot and humid here (yesterday it reached 36 C as we were driving south) although our room is air conditioned, which is real nice.
We debated going our for pizza but in the end, where dinner was quite good the previous night, decided to stay and again eat here. Gayle had two half portions - first the Avocado Hummus - a combination of chickpeas and avocado hummus with cheese crumbles served with tortilla chips. Then, given the Tropical Salad was so good last night Gayle repeated it again, and enjoyed it every bit as much again. Norm had a large serving of pork ribs served with BBQ sauce accompanied by rice and vegetables. Another very nice meal.
Back to our room and again we soon called it a night. Perhaps it is the heat but we are beat by the end of the day.
February 06, 2024 - Halifax to Toronto to San Jose
February 07, 2024 - San Jose to Uvita (Tiki Villas Rainforest)
We had a leisurely stop-over in Toronto (where there was no snow at all) and left on time for San Jose. We actually landed 40 minutes early and breezed through immigration, unlike previous trips where the lines were lengthy and it took a considerable amount of time. Our luggage arrived and we easily found a taxi for the 10 km trip to Guacima Escondida ($35 US), our 'home' for the first night. We have struggled to find that 'right' place near SJO (San Jose airport) but may have now found it. We are also booked in our last two nights.
After a good sleep - it is not as hot and humid here just outside San Jose as further south down the coast - we awoke to nothing but sun. There was coffee (the Costa Ricans are proud of their coffee, not shy to let one know it is the 'best in the world') in the room which got our day started. After a walk around the property we met Paul, the resident dog. Interestingly on the plane I watched the movie Paul - coincidence ... or not? We then enjoyed a traditional Costa Rican breakfast of Gallo Pinto (rice and beans), eggs, plantains, some (rubbery) Costa Rican cheese and a tortilla, along with orange juice and coffee. After breakfast Juliana arranged for an uber to take us back past the airport to the car rental office - only $10 and the driver was wonderful, in spite of his limited English - well worth the 50% tip.
The car rental process again took longer than it seems it should (as it almost always does here in Costa Rica) but eventually we were on the road for a lengthy - nearly four hours direct - drive out to the coast and then south past Jaco, Quepos, Dominical and nearly to Uvita and our next lodging Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge. On the way we did detour into Herradura to exchange some US$ to Costa Rican colones and enjoy an ice cream. We eventually arrived shortly before 5:00 pm, checked in and enjoyed the view over the rainforest to the Pacific Ocean.
One of the reasons for choosing Tiki Villas for our first extended stop is that it has a restaurant, where we ate tonight. Being quite hungry we each had two dishes. Norm started with a Fish ceviche - white fish, aji paste, (way too much) red onions and cilantro, accompanied with fried plantains while Gayle had a colourful, refreshing 'half / side' (which seemed more like a full) Tropical salad of mixed lettuce, pineapple, strawberry, mango, sliced almonds with avocado dressing. For our main courses Norm had the Costa Rican Casado - a traditional Costa Rican dish with chicken (or pork) rice, beans, salad and sweet plantains. Gayle enjoyed a very filling serving of pasta with an alfredo sauce served with focaccia bread. No room for dessert.
Back to our room where it was lights out and off to sleep.
BEFORE WE LEFT AFTER WE ARRIVED.
the mahogany family, native to south Asia but introduced in Costa Rica.
PAUL
View to the Pacific Ocean from our room at Tiki Villas.
Back to Costa Rica - February 06, 2024 to March 01, 2024
And we will again be returning to a couple of places we have stayed before, along with three new lodges.
We have found a new place near the San Jose airport. We arrive quite late but will stay at Guacima Escondida the first night and for two at the end. We will pick up our rental vehicle and head to the coast and south, where we will be staying
- 4 nights at Tiki Villas Rainforest Lodge near Uvita, then
- 3 nights at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, near Dominical where we stayed last year, after which
- 5 nights at Dolphin Quest accessed by boat in the Osa, followed by finally
- 4 nights at Encanta La Vida on the Pacific Ocean south of Puerto Jiminez before returning north for
- 5 nights at Jardins de Los Monos in Matapola - our fourth time staying here, and finally back for
- 2 nights at Guacima Escondida near the airport
Can't wait.