Our memories of Greece 2024:
We enjoyed another great experience in Greece (the Cyclades) with the following being our most vivid memories (in no particular order):
- our anxious dash in Athens (after our late arrival) to make our flight to Paros
- being reminded of how much we enjoy Hotel Petres; Eva, Sotiris and Clea
- the excellent breakfasts with a number of local dishes at Petres
- the very nice pool at Petres along with our first swim in the sea
- how much we love Pano Gitonia and the views from our terrace
- dinner at To Mosxoydaki, especially interacting with Popi and Theofillos
- the sheep burgers at the Cretan restaurant
- the super easy access to swims at the very sandy Aegali beach
- our day driving to the the south-east end of Amorgos and Kalotaritissa beach
- the goats of Amorgos
- feeding Alex apples
- Amorgos sunsets
- the welcoming and friendly Loni at O Kipos with our cute traditional Greek room in the garden
- the easily accessible good restaurants on Donoussa
- the wonderful Santorini house wine at Avli, along with the upscale food
- Donoussa festival music being played throughout the night (until 8:00 am) for two consecutive nights
- Gayle practicing her Greek dancing at sunrise
- the accessibility (< 2 minute easy walk) to the beautiful, sandy Stavros beach
- the spectacular views on the bus ride to and time spent on Donoussa's beautiful Kalotaritissa's beach
- my camera breaking on Donoussa, and Linda loaning me hers on Koufonisi
- returning to Pambelos Lodge with the wonderful views of the sea and Keros Island
- Pambelos / Georgio's breakfasts
- Fanos beach and its soft sand and warm turquoise waters
- the surprisingly delicious pizzas at Lavanda & Rosmarino
- our meals at Georgio's brother's restaurant Armira Kai Pioto
- making our ferry connection to Sikinos in Ios with only six minutes to spare
- the service of Fotis and Happy at Zetine Suities, Sikinos
- sampling a flight of local wines at Manalis Vineyards while watching a gorgeous sunset
- the three beaches of Sikinos; the port / Alopronia and the drives to Agios Giorgios and Dialiskari
- the stunning isolated property at Provalma, including the awesome sunrises
- extensive breakfast baskets, offering choices of food and drink, delivered to our room at Provalma
- Irini's restaurant / general store - a real family ambiance; a step back in time
- dinners in the beautiful tree canopied Plaka of Chora
- our daily swims at Agkali Beach, Folegandros
- our car battery dying during sunset and being 'saved' by Dominik and Lorena, the young Swiss couple
- crossing paths four times with Patrick and Martin on two different islands (Folegandros and Sifnos)
- the north of Sifnos, including the drive down to Vroulidia beach, returning to the potter and Cheronissos
- breakfasts at Niriedes, including all the fresh breads and cakes
- returning to Lembesis for dinner - twice; for chick pea soup - twice and tender octopus
- the wines and views at Santo Winery, Santorini
- sadly the roadside garbage throughout Santorini
- our dinners at the somewhat upscale Katerina's Traditional Restaurant in Karterados, Santorini
- sharing a number of restaurant experiences with our friends Bill and Linda
- the experience of 'feeling' Greece - sun, sand, sea, music => four + weeks of relaxation
- Eva, Sotiris, Clea, Theo, Pookie, Loni, Georgio, Fotis, Happy, Yiannis, Alexa, Irini, Thanos and Antha
- mountainous scenery with amazing sea views, especially Amorgos, Donoussa, Sikinos and Folegandros
A bit about each island we visited and our favourite islands:
(some repetition of the above memories)
Paros
Amorgos
Donoussa
Koufonisi
Sikinos
Folegandros
Sifnos
Santorini
- love returning to Hotel Petres - Sotiris, Clea and Eva
- lovely balcony overlooking the beautiful pool
- enjoyed our first swim in the sea with little fish at our feet
- buffet breakfasts are top notch with a number of local dishes
- availability of Greek appetizers and one main dish throughout the day
- otherwise not particularly impressed with Paros
- returning again (5th time) to Pano Gitonia and reconnecting with Theo and Pookie
- our terrace and its view from Pano Gitonia is as spectacular as ever - gorgeous sunsets
- our meals and experiences at the restaurants in Lefkada
- the easy access and relaxing time in the water at Aegali beach
- the dramatic scenery always in sight of the sea while crossing the island
- the many many goats
- our 'cute little Greek cottage', calm in the garden despite the wind
- the friendliness and service of Loni and other guests
- spectacular mountain drive to the beautiful Kalotaritissa beach
- easy access (< 2 minutes) to the port / Stavros beach
- the many good tavernas / restaurants in Stavros
- the festival and the laid back, relaxing vibe of the island
- returning again for the 5th time - yes we like it a lot
- Georgio / Pambelos Lodge including the spectacular view to the sea and Keros Island
- Georgio's endless breakfasts
- Fanos beach with its soft sand and calm turquoise water
- the water taxis providing access to other beaches and Kato Koufonisi
- the nice town of Chora
- Zetine Suites - a wonderful small hotel on an island without many - Fotis and Happy
- drives over the mountains to Agios Giorgios and Dialiskari beaches
- easy access to the shallow, calm, warm port / Alopronia beach
- enjoying a flight of wines at Manalis Winery watching the sun set over Folegandros
- the maze of alleys in Chora
- the stunning, isolated Provalma with its awesome sunrises
- extensive breakfast baskets delivered daily to our room
- daily swims at Akgali beach
- the family feel and good traditional Greek food of Irini's traditional restaurant / general store
- dinners in the beautiful tree canopied Plaka in Chora
- the very interesting Chora - both the old Kastro and 'newer' side
- returning to Lembesis taverna near Aftokofo beach with views of the Chrisopigi Monastery
- traditional Sifnos recipies of chick pea soup and mastelo lamb
- the drive to and isolation of Vroulidia beach
- the breakfasts at Niriedies complete with fresh breads and baked goods, yoghurt and fruit along with many other options
- the numerous shallow, sandy beaches
- the 'green' nature of the island with its many olive trees
- the higher prices
- the roadside garbage
- the hordes of people
- enjoying nice Santorini wine while admiring the views of Fira and Oia from the edge of of the caldera
- the black volcanic (albeit pebbly) beaches
- the nice traditional village of Megalochori
- delicious 'upscale' Greek meals at Katerina's Traditional Restaurant
Which leads us to our favourite islands:
Gayle Norm
A Amorgos Amorgos Perennial favourites - will definitely go to when in the Cyclades
Koufonisi Sifnos
Koufonisi
B Donoussa Donoussa Look forward to returning to
Sikinios Sikinos
Folegandros Folegandros
Sifnos
C Paros Paros Would be a 'D' if not for Hotel Petres
D Sanorini Santorini Been there done it
Finances / Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.497 Cdn):
Here are the costs of our 32 day trip:
$ 665 airfare (internal to Greece / Turkey)
$ 6,340 lodging ($198 Cdn $ per night) - including breakfast (tips in miscellaneous)
$ 2,205 food ($69 per day primarily for dinner of which $12 per day was for wine. Groceries and other food purchases, e.g. bakeries also included. Breakfasts, where provided, included in lodging.
$ 1,188 vehicle ($923 or $42 per day for the 22 rental days) plus fuel ($168) and taxis / bus ($97)
$ 760 ferries
$ 189 tips
$11,347 for 32 days
$ 785 airfare (from Canada - Aeroplan), including seat selection
$12,132
$ 217 souvenirs - pottery +
$12,347
The total cost excluding airfare from Canada and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, vehicle and tips) was $11,347 or $355 per day.
Following are the average costs of this and our six previous trips to Greece.
- $242 in 2015 (24 days)
- $341 in 2017 (26 days)
- $307 in 2018 (18 days)
- $285 in 2019 (30 days)
- $354 in 2022 (34 days)
- $419 in 2023 (34 days)
- $355 in 2024 (32 days)
In euros the average costs of lodging, food and transportation (internal flights, car rental, fuel, tolls and ferries) expenses per day has been as follows.
Lodging Food* Transportation
Greece 2015 78 44 42
Greece 2017 97 46
Greece 2018 106 45
Greece 2019 95 42 47
Greece 2022 144 48 59
Greece 2023 170 49 64
Greece 2024 133 46 54
* includes all food purchases (dinners, breakfasts where not included in lodging cost, groceries, bakeries etc.)
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Spain 2018 147 64
Spain 2019 146 68
Spain 2023 178 79 27
Spain 2024 204 77 68
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Italy 2022 135 61 88
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France 2024 155 72 59
Lodgings
Lodging ranged from a low of 60 euros (O Kipos, Donoussa) to a high of 190 euros (Onyx, Santorini), with the average being 133 euros . All except Pano Gitonia and O Kipos included breakfast.
Here is a list of where we stayed, the amount we paid (in euros) and a link to their website.
Cost Lodging Town / Island Website / Link
135 euros Petres Hotel Naoussa, Paros Hotel Petres
80 euros Pano Gitonia Potamos, Amorgos Pano Gitonia
60 euros O Kipos Stavros, Donoussa O Kipos
170 euros Pambelos Lodge Koufonisi Pambelos Lodge
117 euros Zetine Suites Alopronia, Sikinos Zetine Suites
166 euros Provalma Ano Meria, Folegandros Provalma
184 euros Hotel Niriedes Platis Gialos, Sifnos Niriedes Hotel
190 euros Onyx Hotel Karterados, Santorinii Onyx Hotel
As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each lodging. In doing so we save the establishment the booking commission. As well often we are known to owners / staff when we arrive.
October 07, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx)
Our last day in Santorini and Greece. Fortunately we were not at all rushed as our flight was not until 4:35 pm.
The day started with breakfast. As mentioned yesterday the breakfast here at Onyx is very 'American' with scrambled eggs, bacon and pancakes served cafeteria style. It kind of felt like a Holiday Inn breakfast - certainly nothing wrong with it but nothing memorable as well. Not a typical Greek breakfast. But we guess we are in Santorini after all. To their credit the pancakes were, quite surprisingly, accompanied by real Canadian maple syrup. A nice touch. Beyond yoghurt the only other 'Greek' item was a salad.
After breakfast we enjoyed the jacuzzi one final time. Very nice and relaxing.
Having driven to the south yesterday today we headed north, up the north-east side, circling over the top to Oia and then back along the spine of Santorini.
The first part of the drive was picturesque with open spaces, windmills and the rich blue sea.
Then we arrived in Oia where the traffic suddenly increased significantly with parking only well away from the actual town. With the expected hills we chose not to stop, rather turning around and heading back.
The drive took us through Finikia, around a mountain with great vistas to the coastal land (that we had just driven) below.
We passed Imerovigli and then around Fira before returning the Onxy to pick up our luggage.
Unfortunately, or perhaps not, as the government of the island clearly chooses to do nothing about it, Santorini is full of road-side garbage. Bottles, construction materials, boxes, glass - pretty much anything you can think of.
There is too much road litter in Halifax, too much in Corfu and way too much in Morocco. Sadly Morocco is riveled by the garbage here in Santorini - disgusting. But it is not just us who noticed. We found this post titled Santorini: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (https://atasteofancientroutes.wordpress.com/2014/10/22/santorini-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/). Here is the Ugly.
"The ugly
Rubbish. Rivers of rubbish, and indeed mountains. Just before arriving in Fira (the ugly, and artificial capital of the island) I came across the rubbish tip of the island, a mound of plastic, paper, boxes, crates, glass – everything. And I am sure that this is not the only one. It is just next to the road, slightly obscured by a hillock, opposite a row of shops and next to a beautiful art gallery. And the overwhelming stench of trash invades the air. All around hills are strewn with rubbish which flies around in the wind, and everybody ignores it, as if it doesn’t exist."
What to say about Santorini. It was never on my list of islands to visit in spite of its popularity with so many other travelers. Gayle had been here in the 1970s but in my previous eight trips I had not. However the availability of a connecting flight to Istanbul opened Santorini up as a destination. Certainly one and done. We see no reason to return. That is not to say there were not aspects we very much enjoyed - the Onyx Hotel was nice albeit the most expensive of our trip; Katerina's Traditional Restaurant was excellent; the black volcanic beach at Perissa an enjoyable stop and the views from and wine at Santo Winery very impressive. But on the whole we much prefer smaller, quieter islands.
The airport was very convenient. We dropped our car off (an easy process), checked in, and boarded our flight on schedule to bring an end to the Greece portion of our trip.
In what was essentially an 'American' breakfast the only Greek item (beyond yoghurt of course) was a Greek salad.
Pancakes seemed like a very strange thing to have on the breakfast selection but impressively, and surprisingly, they were accompanied by real Canadian maple syrup.
Right: yours truly in the jacuzzi.
Below: the pool as seen from the breakfast area with our room (on the upper level) across from the pool.
Sadly, as it turns out, one of our most vivid memories of Santorini is the roadside garbage. It was everywhere, reminding us of Morocco. Given the volume of visitors and revenue for the island we wondered why this is allowed to happen? Very atypical of Greek islands that are generally very clean of litter.
October 06, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx)
We awoke to a colourful sunrise over the nearby island of Anafi, after which we went down to breakfast.
The good news is that breakfast is included although it was far from our most memorable. Cafeteria style with no made-to-order options. As a result the pancakes and eggs were both somewhat cold and the little sausages both cold and not very tasty. The surprisingly good thing was that the maple syrup was real Canadian made - quite unexpected and appreciated. The juice was not fresh (but ok) and the coffee actually quite good. There was yoghurt, fruit, cereal (the muesli was not great), olives, tomatoes, and cucumber. While there were croissants the rest of the bread was either plain white or whole wheat. As said the breakfast was, in our view, just ok.
After breakfast we headed straight to our jacuzzi where we spent considerable time relaxing in the warm waters.
Today's outing took us first to Santo Wines where we stopped just to admire the views. Then it was on to the traditional village of Megolachori and then through Vilchada on the south coast followed by a stop and swim at the black volcanic Perissa beach.
On the way back we returned to Santo Wines where we took some time to sample a couple of glasses of wine while enjoying the views of the caldera and west side of Santorini. While we did not stay for sunset the sun was beginning to set late afternoon.
All in all a very good day.
Next was a drive to the south coast where we passed a number of vineyards and black volcanic beaches, ultimately ending at Perissa beach. The beach lies at the base of Mesa Vouno Mountain, being one of the longest and most famous beaches in Santorini. Fortunately it was getting late in the season as photos show a very well organized, cosmopolitan beach with an abundance of lounge chairs, umbrellas and other amenities including seaside cafes and bars - exactly not the kind of beach we would spend time on. Apparently at night there are a number of lively clubs. But at the very end, and perhaps because late in the season there was nothing but open beach with its black volcanic pebbles (for us water shoes mandatory) leading to dark blue waters over a sandy sea bottom. Our last swim of the trip was very enjoyable.
We returned to Santo Winery for a glass of wine overlooking the caldera and islands to the west. One of the best decisions we made. We got an excellent table adjacent to the glass and a great server - Thanasis from near Volos in the Pelion. Although we considered a charcuterie plate to accompany the wine we chose to not as we figured it would ruin dinner, plus at 36 euro ($54.00 Cdn) for the cheapest plate was somewhat pricey. That said when we saw a nearby table with a plate loaded with cheese and other products we were envious. Gayle had a glass of a recent vintage (2021) 100% Assyrtiko Selection Cuvee white wine - very nice while Norm ordered the older (2018) Grande Reserve, in part to compare the two. Much more golden in colour and very buttery in the mouth it was delicious and no doubt worth the slight additional cost - Gayle's was 7.60 euros ($11.40 Cdn for a nice size glass) with the Grande Reserve being 11.60 euros ($17.40 Cdn). We enjoyed a nice chat with Thanasis, admiring the towns of Fira and Oia in the distance; gazed at the cruise ships in the caldera and saw the beginnings of the setting sun. An extremely enjoyable time very well spent.
The only down-side of the day was the amount of road-side garbage throughout our drive. More on that tomorrow.
After returning to our hotel where we enjoyed more time in the jacuzzi, as planned we went back to Katerina's for dinner. We were fortunate to find the absolute best / closest parking spot, literally right next to the restaurant. We started with the Zucchini fritters with yoghurt, mint and lime dip - very nicely done. Gayle chose the Santorini white Aubergine with fresh tomato, feta cheese and herbs. The aubergine was well prepared. Norm ordered wisely with the Beef short ribs slowly cooked with a Vinsanto wine sauce and sweet potato puree. Not only beautifully presented but the ribs melted in the mouth. Being our last night in Greece we couldn't say no to a baklava for desert. Another very nice meal we were impressed with the menu options and service at Katerina's.
Spectacular views from Santo Winery.
Dating back to the 17th century Megalochori has a number of whitewashed buildings highlighted by nicely painted doors and windows, along with a maze of alleyways.
Doors of Megalochori.
The late afternoon setting sun as seen from the wine tasting area of Santo Winery.
The Union of Santorini Cooperatives - Santo Wines was founded in 1911, as “Santorini Vine & Wine Protection Fund”. Today, it consists of the largest organization of the island representing all the cultivators and counting 1.200 active members. Santo Wines is committed to safeguarding the local traditional cultivations, producing highest quality Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini wines and food products as well as promoting sustainable agriculture development.
October 05, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes) to
Santorini (Onyx)
Our last morning in Sifnos before our last ferry of the trip.
In spite of breakfast not normally beginning until 9:00 am (a very civil hour) with us being required to leave by 9:15 am Thanos invited us down at 8:30 am. We thought we would get a coffee and perhaps a few baked goods but no - the full breakfast was awaiting us. Again no need for lunch.
We returned the car (no problem) and walked through the nice port village of Kamares to the dock where we boarded the Seajets ferry. The ferry made stops in Milos and then Folegandros before arriving in the port of Santorini. In my previous eight trips to Greece I had never been to Santorini. Gayle on the other hand had visited the island in the 1970s on her European backpacking trip and thought I should experience Santorini at least once.
Bill and Linda had 'warned' us the traffic in Santorini, especially ascending the cliff from the port, was quite something. Not only is the switchback road narrow but there are many many large buses driving up and down.
Unfortunately we missed one turn and ended up driving through Pyrgos and on to Moni Profiti Ilia high on a hill. While providing some great views of the island it was quickly clear this was the wrong way.
We turned around, descended the mountain, asked for directions from a taxi driver at a gas station and quickly were back on track and on our way to Karterados and the Onyx Hotel & Suites which was then quite easy to find.
The exuberant Maria checked us in and showed us to our room.
For dinner we went to Katerina's Traditional Restaurant, recommended by both Maria at the hotel and Bill and Linda. At 700 metres we decided to drive and were fortunate to find a reasonably convenient parking spot. While typical Greek dishes were available the menu included a number of interesting 'up-scale' options. We started with bread and a nice dish of Tzatziki. Gayle then had an excellent Grilled vegetable souvlaki with Haloumi cheese and a lime dressing. Norm had the Pork roll with cream cheese, carrot and prunes served with aromatic rice, apparently a specialty of Santorini. We enjoyed a 1/2 litre of delicious Santorini wine with our meal. All of the food was excellent and reasonably priced. Perhaps prices at restaurants on the Caldera are through the roof but not the case here. Plus we received superb service from our waiter Stavros. An excellent experience we expect we will be back tomorrow.
Upon returning to Onyx we made use of the jacuzzi before calling it a night.
October 04, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)
Another day; another wonderful breakfast; another pottery shop; another beach and another dinner at Lembesis, our favourite taverna on the sea.
After our morning ritual of coffee and cookies (from yesterday's breakfast) on our terrace we sauntered down to breakfast where we were again filled with pastries, cheese, coffee, juice, bread, jams, eggs, yoghurt and fruit.
In the afternoon we drove into Apollonia to visit Thanos' parents bakery / confectionary shop. The shop is overflowing with most everything one could think of - cookies, breads, jams, honey, olive oil, capers, spices, bottled fruit and vegetables, drinks, candies and much more. Gayle went in to take a few photos and buy two pieces of baklava. Afterwards I decided to also check out the shop and take a few more photos, including of Thanos' father. I ended up buying a bottle of olive oil and a couple of packages of soft candies for Paul, Erin and Katrina. As I was leaving I was provided a 'gift' of an ice cream bar covered with chocolate. How typically Greek.
Our next stop was Vathi for two purposes. First we returned to a ceramics shop we had visited on our previous visit where we had purchased a plate. The shop continues to make pottery. In the end we bought a couple of small soup bowls. The other reason for our stop in Vathi is its beautiful shallow harbour and sandy beach where we enjoyed yet another swim. The drive itself was quite scenic, climbing and descending a small mountain with vistas of Platis Gialos and its harbour.
Being our last night in Sifnos there was no question we were going to return to Lembesis for dinner. Surprisingly where the taverna was reasonably full the other night we were the only customers not only when we arrived but throughout our time. As well plastic had been set up around most of the taverna due to increasing winds. Regardless we decided to sit outside, with our unobstructed views of the Chrisopigi Monastery. Not being particularly hungry we had only one dish each. There was no doubt Gayle would again have the Rivithatha - the chick pea soup. Once again it was delicious. Norm went with the grilled octopus that was served sliced rather than in one tentacle. For the price (18 euros) there did not seem like much octopus but given Norm was not overly hungry it turned out to be just the right amount ... and it was fresh and tasty. If ever back to Sifnos there is no question we will return to Lembesis.
We returned to Niriedes where we ended another good day with the baklava.
Platis Gialos as seen from the mountain road to Vathi.
Olive trees on the rock walled terraces of Sifnos.
Monastery Chrisopigi.
October 03, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)
Today was a pretty full day during which we returned to a number of places we visited in 2010.
But first the day started with another Niriedes breakfast after which we said goodbye to Antha who was leaving, along with Roxy their precious dog, to return to Athens to be with their daughter. We didn't meet Antha back in 2010 as she had returned to Athens earlier given their children were much younger.
We headed through Apollonia to the north end of the island. Our first stop was Vroulidia beach, a secluded beach on the west side of Sifnos in which to access one has to drive two km or so down the side of a mountain. In 2010 the road was dirt all the way. At times we crossed our fingers we would get back up but after a nice swim by ourselves, well except for the school of jumping fish, we somehow managed to ascend the mountain. Fast forward 14 years and most of the road is now paved. Only the last few hundred metres, albeit the steepest section is still dirt. We passed a group of parked cars and pushed on. Then there were two other cars parked. I took a look and saw a car down behind the taverna and decided to continue to push on. The half dozen or so swimming stared up in apparent amazement. Slowly I inched down until I reached the beach. We parked. We swam - the beach was quite rocky necessitating water shoes for us but the water, like elsewhere was beautiful - calm and warm. I napped while Gayle swam again. And then I took a deep breath, put it in first and started back up the mountain. There was a tense moment around the first curve but after that all was good. As I passed those vehicles that parked further up the mountain I did feel pretty good about my courage to tackle the drive.
Shortly thereafter I found a potter we had dropped in on in 2010. Unfortunately he no longer makes the same brown with a circular swirl pottery, a few pieces of which we had purchased years ago, and then added to from a shop in Chora, Amorgos, but we did buy a nice blue plate from him.
We then reached the very north tip of the island and the small fishing village of Cheronissos. The taverna we ate at in 2010 may have been open but no one was there. On the other hand Ammoundia was very busy, including both of the beach tables being occupied. We enjoyed a very nice late lunch - Gayle a Greek salad and a plate of fried potatoes and Norm the Mastelo - a traditional Sifnian recipe of lamb cooked in the oven with dill and red wine. Delicious.
The leisurely 23 kilometre 40 minute return drive the length of the island was interrupted by a few photo stops, in particular a nice group of pomegranate trees and a chapel.
We returned to Niriedes where we watched the sun set behind the mountains while drinking a bottle of Prosecco. A very good day.
Views of Platis Gialos bay from the breakfast area.
Right: not exactly a world class soccer pitch.
Below: the coast of north Sifnos with a view to Serifos.
Right: the water is so clear the (many) fish were very visible.
Below: fishing nets and gear.
Psarotaverna I Ammoudia taverna in Cherronisos.
remain a few windmills.
October 02, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)
Today was our first full day on Sifnos, and is generally our custom it was a quiet day.
We started with a phenomenally large, and excellent breakfast. Thanos' parents own a pastry shop / bakery in Apollonia from whom he provides numerous cakes, breads, pies (spinach or cheese), and other baked goods. And this is just the start. There is coffee, fresh orange juice, olives, tomato and feta cheese with olive oil and oregano, local Sifnian soft cheese, eggs and bacon, a fruit bowl and yoghurt with fruit and / or honey if one wishes. In reality way too much but everything is so very good.
The room we wanted to book was not available the first night so after breakfast we packed and moved to another larger room with a wonderful comfortable terrace on the front of the building. The terrace comes with loungers in addition to the table and chairs and direct views of the bay, beach, town and mountains. Very nice indeed.
Sifnos is a mountainous island of 74 square kms and a population of 2,777 (2021 census).
The main town, near the center, known as Apollonia is thought to be named for the ancient temple of Apollo on the site of the church of Panayia Yeraniofora. The village of Kastro was the capital of the island during ancient times until 1836. It is built on top of a high cliff on the island's east shore and today has extensive medieval remains. The port of Kamares is located on the west coast of the island.
Sifnos has been recognized by a number of organizations including National Geographic who considered the island one of the 10 best destination on earth (2012) and Vogue's list of the 11 best paces in the world to travel (2024). We understand why as our return quickly reminded us as to how much we enjoyed our time on Sifnos when here in 2010.
The island is interesting with its rugged, mountainous landscape, unusual amount of agriculture, especially olives (Sifnos is actually quite a 'green' island) and beautiful beaches.
In the afternoon we went down to Platis Gialos for a swim in the protected bay. The beach is long with very soft sand. It slopes very gently in the water leaving it shallow for a considerable distance and as a result very warm.
In terms of restaurant recommendations Antha suggested To Steki, a nice taverna set amongst tamarisk tree, on the beach in Platis Gialos. We started with an order of cheese balls - somewhat plain in their appearance but tasty. Just as they were served who should wander by but Patrick and Martin, the German fellows we had run into three times before. They were also staying in Platis Gialos. We had another nice (last) chat. We then enjoyed our meal of chick pea soup for Gayle (good but not quite as flavourful as that at Lembesis albeit served in a nice pottery dish) and Moussaka for Norm - actually the most tasteful, best moussaka on the trip so far.
A very short drive back up the hill to Niriedes brought an end to our day.
Far right - Thanos today (2024).
Middle right - Thanos in 2010.
Below - the full breakfast - well not really as one also has the opportunity to have eggs, a large fresh fruit bowl and / or yoghurt with fruit and honey.
October 01, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma) to
Sifnos (Niriedes)
No doubt I should have done this upon arriving in Folegandros (or perhaps one of our early 'light' days rather than as we are leaving) but better late than never.
Folegandros is a small Greek island that, together with Sikinos, Ios, Anafi and Santorini, forms the southern part of the Cyclades.
It is a long thinnish island with a surface area of 32 square kilometres (more of less 13 km long by 2 1/2 km, on average, wide) and has 719 inhabitants (2021 census).
Little is known about the ancient history of Folegandros. Per Wikipedia its inhabitants were Dorians. Later it came under Athenian rule. The island contained a city-state called Pholegandros, which was sited at the modern Chora where it appeared on tribute lists between 425 and 416 BC.] The island was called the iron Pholegandros on account of its ruggedness.
Folegandros was conquered in 1207 by the Venetian Marco Sanudo and remained under the rule of Venice until 1566, when it was taken by the Ottoman Turks.
The Greeks reclaimed it in the 19th century during the Greek war of independence. There are records of the island being visited by British explorers in early 1884.
During the 20th century Folegandros was used as a place of exile for political prisoners, especially during the 4th of August regime from 1936 to 1941.
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We left Provalma and Folegandros mid morning on our Zante ferry that took over four hours completing the milk run to Kimilos, followed by Milos and finally Sifnos. Picking up our rental car was easy and we were off for the 20 or so minute drive via the main town of Apollonia and then south to Platis Gialos and Hotel Niriedes where we stayed with Thanos back in 2010. It was particularly nice to meet Thanos' wife Antha (meaning 'flower') who had already returned to Athens with their young children when we previously visited.
We checked into our room (up 64 steps which was not particularly welcoming for my knees but well worth it given the views of the bay). The room itself was very nicely designed with very tasteful art work and a small kitchenette.
There was no question where we were going to go for dinner. When here previously we ate twice at Lembesis, a few kms away with wonderful views to Chrisopigi Monastery set out on a point at the edge of the sea. The taverna is simple but our recollection was the food was excellent. We were spot on. We started with a plate of olives and white wine for Gayle and retsina for Norm. Top marks for the taverna having retsina as not all do these days. Gayle had very fond memories of the chick pea soup (or Revithatha - a traditional Sifnos island recipe cooked in wood oven). The soup was every bit as tasty (must be the considerable amount of olive oil) as remembered. Norm enjoyed grilled sausage marinated with Sifnian herbs.
A short drive back to Niriedes brought an end to a full day.
Below - arriving in the port of Kimilos.
Right - the deck chair seating on the ferry.
September 30, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
If it is even possible today was a quieter day than the previous days here in Folegandros.
Our agenda was essentially the same. We guess if one likes what they are doing; enjoys the place they are staying and the beach they are swimming why change?
On the way to dinner we stopped in to Chrisospilia Honey and Cafe and Shop, clearly a local hang-out. We had Yannis quite confused as we asked him to open his Wifi and go to our travel blog. We showed him to Greece 2010 where he was serving us dinner years ago. He actually looks very similar.
We're still not sure he fully understood but he was, as he was then, all smiles.
Yiannis - 2010 Yiannis - 2024
For dinner we returned to Irini's. Perhaps it was taking all the photos the other night, or just that Irini (both of them) have good memories as we were met with smiles and a warm welcome. We sat at the same table and enjoyed another nice meal - similar to the one the other night starting with saganaki followed by a Greek salad for Gayle and lamb (this time in lemon sauce) again with matsata pasta. We enjoyed the similar activity of Constantino running all over the place. This feels more like a home than a restaurant. Not only was the food very good but it was also fun.
A very nice way to spend our last night in Folegandros.
Each morning here in Folegandros generally involves three things.
1. waking up early to see the sunrise,
2. enjoy breakfast delivered to our room, and
3. working away on our travel blogs.
Yiannis, who operated a restaurant at which we ate in Chora in 2010, now owns a Honey Cafe & Shop in Ano Meria.
September 29, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
It is going to be difficult to say much original today.
We again woke to a stunning sunrise.
We again enjoyed a beautiful sunny hot day.
We again enjoyed a tasty breakfast on our terrace.
We again enjoyed the property and its pool.
We again went down to Agkali beach for a swim.
We again went in to Chora where we again had dinner with Linda and Bill, where Gayle had the Greek Vegetable Medley and Norm the young lamb 'Kleftiko' cooked in the oven with potatoes, vegetable and cheese.
We again enjoyed everything we did, and didn't do today.
The Greek Vegetable Medley for Gayle - ok but a tad on the overcooked mushy side.
Lamb (under the cheese) Kleftiko - very good.
September 28, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
Another great, relaxing (except for one anxious experience) day in Folegandros.
Again we awoke (actually we set the alarm) to enjoy another spectacular sunrise.
After breakfast, some work of the travel blogs and a nap (remember we were up early) we drove to Agkali Beach, just down the road and then a further 1.5 kms down the mountainside. A beach of fine pebbles the water was relatively calm as today's wind was from the east, leaving the west side reasonably calm - and the water again clear and warm. Wonderful as always.
We decided to head to the very north end of the island to see the sunset. It certainly did not disappoint.
A beautiful colourful sunrise and an equally beautiful colourful sunset bookended our day.
The only problem was that after stopping for 15 minutes or so to enjoy the show our car would not start. Even coasting downhill I could not get it to start. What to do? Fortunately there was another couple on a nearby hill who stopped for us when they saw our predicament. Dominik and Lorena from Switzerland (we have met more Swiss on this trip than likely all our previous trips total) not only called the car rental company but stayed with us until they arrived. After 20 minutes or so - fortunately Folegandros is a small island - two fellows arrived and boosted the car. During the time we enjoyed a wonderful chat with Dominik and Lorena about Canada, travelling etc. while we waited. A potential bad situation turned out to be a nice experience.
We had dinner again in Ano Meria at Sinadisi, a simple traditional Greek taverna where Patrick and Martin, the German fellows we met the previous night and who took our photo at sunset were also having dinner. Gayle had fried potatoes, aka French fries, and a Greek salad while Norm the matsata pasta with meatballs. It was actually quite cool with a wind blowing necessitating bringing out for the first time our long sleeves. Being outside the 'city / chora' we were treated to a 'gift' after dinner of yoghurt with a jam compote. Interestingly this was the last night Sinadisi was open as it was closing for the season tomorrow.
A short drive had us back to Provalma where we turned in.
Left the pool.
Below our room Geronimos and our terrace.
After watching the sunset our car would not start (dead battery). Dominik and Lorena, a Swiss couple also in the area for the sunset stopped to help. Not only did they call our car rental company for us, but stayed for nearly half an hour during which we had a nice chat. After 20 minutes or so a couple of fellows arrived to boost / re-start the vehicle. It was very kind of them for which we were so thankful.
September 27, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
Thank goodness an early morning bathroom visit occurred at just the right time this morning as the sunrise was absolutely spectacular. There's really nothing I can add to the photos below other than I wish I had my camera with telephoto lens - but still pretty decent photos.
Our first full day, as is often the case, is primarily spent on the property. We enjoyed a very nice breakfast. One chooses from a lengthy list of options the day before and Louis brings a basket at the time of your choosing with the items chosen. Today we had spinach pies, orange and carrot cake, fresh orange juice, fruit, yoghurt, nice breads, homemade muesli, yoghurt, some ham and cheese, and of course coffee. Very relaxing to have breakfast on our terrace.
Then it was some time in a wonderful pool with views across the open landscape to the south of the island and the main town of Chora.
We arranged with Bill and Linda to have dinner after sunset so went into Chora a couple of hours before to wander around, through the alleyways and past the churches and restaurants. Chora provides many photo opportunities with interesting alleyways, colourful doors and balconies, sun spotlighted churches and many cats. We eventually found our way to the north end of Chora from where there was an excellent location to enjoy the sunset. We spent a considerable amount of time there soaking in the atmosphere and having our photo taken by a German fellow (more tomorrow).
We met Bill and Linda at Nicolas Place in the main Plaka square as planned. We started with some Folegano Caprese - slices of toasted bread with oil, local cheese Surota, lokal cpers, fresh tomato and basil. Then both of us had the Moussaka, Gayle the vegetarian of course and me the traditional meat version. Both were quite good.
After dinner we wandered up to take a look at Bill and Linda's lodging Folegandros Apartments. A very nice unit with two balconies, one on each side - well designed in order that there is always shade on one. It was then a short walk to our car - there are parking lots on the edge of town with vehicle access to the centre restricted, followed by a five to 10 minute drive back to Provalma.
... and the island of Sikinos.
Breakfast is delivered to our room in a wicker basket.
A pretty bight blue door and matching blue pots filled with basilica.
September 26, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites) to
Folegandros (Provalma)
This morning we said good-bye to Fotis, Happy and Zetine Suites. We very much enjoyed our visit to Sikinos. It is a small quiet island - just our thing. We liked the beaches, the dramatic landscapes, the winery experience, Chora and above all our choice of Zetine Suites to stay.
In spite of us having our own car Fotis delivered our luggage to the port and saw us off. Service above and beyond. The ferry to Folegandros on Zante Ferries was only 40 minutes. We were met by the car rental company, and in a few minutes were off for the eight km drive to Provalma on the north end of the island just before the village of Ano Meria.
Provalma is going to be perfect for us. Out in the countryside with awesome views to the sea and Chora. Yiannis, his mother Alexandra and Louis, the always on the move staff member, are all friendly and a pleasure to chat with. The pool is wonderful and there is easy (by car) access to a nice nearby beach - Agkali.
After checking in we went down to the port to welcome Bill and Linda. They had arranged their own ride to their Folegandros Apartment but it was still nice to greet them.
Afterwards we drove through Ano Meria, scouting out restaurants / tavernas, to the very north of the island. Very pretty with wonderful vistas.
We decided to eat at Irini's. It is a small tavern with food that can be enjoyed far away from the crowds of Chora. The tavern is housed in a traditional Cycladic building with a couple of tables on the roadside along with a number inside with its unique decor. Irini is known for her 'matsata', a handmade local pasta, along with various dishes of meat, fava and other Greek recipes. Mrs. Irini inherited the shop when her father died in 2001. The shop also serves as a local grocery store.
According to Greek Gastronomy Guide:
"The cafe is like old, only then at the entrance we had a place where we sold fabrics, clothes and some kinds of innovations. Not much money was circulating then. The locals would come and bring their eggs and cheese, and take the groceries, coffees, detergents etc. Others would bring some cheese or zarzavatiko bass and sell it to passers-by. Then most of the food was ours, everyone had their own gardens."
The cafe-grocery-cooking operates from morning to night and is apparently the only eatery that operates all year. Mrs. Irini starts cooking at noon, continuing all day to serve families throughout the winter. Her specialty, the classic dish of Folegandros, is the bunch. Every day fresh matsata is made, kneaded, and cooked with game, rooster, rabbit, goat or pig.
Our order was taken by and we were served by Irini - not the original but the granddaughter. We started with a large serving of saganaki. Gayle then had the Gemista, or stuffed tomato while Norm the lamb in tomato sauce, of course with the matsata. All excellent
Irini's is the poster child of a family restaurant with the great-grandchild / Constantino skirting around, sort of watched by a young (perhaps seven year-old) girl (who according to Irini apparently thought I might be Santa Claus) and of course his mother. It was a tad wild but really lots of fun.
About to leave Zetine Suites - thanks Fotis for the photos.
It was nice to see some old traditions still persist such as transport by donkey.
The south coastline of Sikinos. A small rock island in the sea. The ferry's wake.
We readily admit we can't tell the difference between a donkey and a mule (apparently a donkey has a flat back while a mule has a slightly curved back) but those below are definitely sheep!
Left: Lamb in tomato sauce with the local pasta matsata.
Below: Unlike past trips it is now rare to get an end of meal 'gift', but out here in 'rural' Ano Meria we were treated to cake.
September 25, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
A three beach / three swim day.
But first a little bit about Sikinos. Part of the Cyclades Sikinos is located midway between Ios and Folegandros. The island was once known as Oenoe or Oinoe, meaning Island of Wine in ancient Greece. The name changed to Siconos after a son of Thoas and Oenoe. The island was likely colonized by Ionians.
There is an ancient temple, now converted to the church Episkipi but beyond that not much else.
Much of Sikinos is very difficult to access due to the terrain, including several ancient ruins. Nearly all of the island is covered by terraces once used for extensive agriculture. Based on the 2021 census Sikinos had 253 inhabitants.
After breakfast we went down to the port to buy our next ferry ticket (Sikinos to Folegandros) after which we wandered over to Apolonia’s very nice beach where we enjoyed a swim.
Then early afternoon we drove the 2 km dirt road over a ‘mountain’ to Dialiskari beach, a picturesque cove where there were only two other couples. Parking was very near the beach and while a few more pebbles it was still ok to access without water shoes. Again the water was warm and inviting.
Where it was dusk while in Kastro / Chora last night we decided to return to again wander through the alleyways. We had not gone far when we heard a ‘hello’. It was the two Polish travelers – Magdalena and Wojciech (who took the photo of us) from the winery the previous day. We chatted a while before continuing to enjoy the village.
From there it was back to St. Georgios’ beach where we planned to have a swim and then dinner. We got one out of two as the taverna was closed. But we did enjoy a wonderful refreshing time in the sea. Upon returning to Alopronia we decided to eat at the taverna in the port – really the only choice unless we wanted to return to Chora. Typical Greek taverna food Gayle had a Greek salad and fries while Norm the lamb with oven roasted potatoes - so much better than French fries. Afterwards it was back to Zetine Suites were we packed for our departure from Sikinos tomorrow morning.
Sunlight; whitewashed exteriors; blue doors and bougainvillea - a great combination.
Even into the fall there was colourful bougainvillea throughout Chora.
September 24, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
Our day started with Happy delivering our breakfast to our room. Coffee, of course; fresh squeezed orange juice; bread and jams; meats and cheese; a salad of tomatoes, cucumber, peppers and olives; yogurt with honey and granola; and hard boiled eggs with capers. Very good and filling.
It was then off to the beach in Alopronia's harbour. It is very well set up with a number of shade umbrellas next to nearby benches. The sand is fine and the shallow water clear and warm. So easy to access and so enjoyable.
The afternoon was spent relaxing at Zetine Suites, including a refreshing dip in the unheated plunge pool. One would have thought the direct sun would have heated the water somewhat more but that was not the case. It was not that bad once you got in but getting in and getting out were not the most pleasant experiences.
As planned we headed to the winery for a glass of wine (we actually had a flight of four of the winery's wines) as we watched the sunset. While the restaurant is now closed there was an opportunity to have a charcuterie plate which we did. There was one other couple, from Poland also at the winery with whom we chatted briefly. The hour or so we spent sipping wine and nibbling on meats and cheese was wonderful. And the sunset did not disappoint.
From the winery we returned to Kastro / Chora where we wandered through the alleyways and stepped inside the church before finding our way to To Steki, the restaurant we chose for the night. The pita bread served was different and quite good. Gayle had another Greek salad while Norm a half kilo of lamb chops - perhaps not as meaty as in Koufonisi but tasty. Unfortunately, being end of season, they were out of wine, or so we thought. When Fotis strolled by he asked about the absence of wine. We explained there was none to which he said "No" and marched in to chat with the owner. We guess there was very little but still some as voila we ended up with a small glass each.
From Chora it was back to the port, Zetine Suites and the end of another very good day.
Left: a wine press
Below: a bottle of rose.
A nice opportunity to sample a variety of the winery's wine - a white; rose; red; and sweet red.
of locals chatted with him.
Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
What's worse than leaving a favourite island? Waking at 5:30 am to catch a 6:45 am ferry in order to leave.
Today was a long one. We were up early, as was Georgio who drove us down to the port at 6:20 am where we were treated to a beautiful sunrise before boarding our Blue Star ferry that took us via Iraklia and Schinoussa to Naxos where we arrived on time (9:00 am).
During the hour and a half we had in Naxos I decided to head over (well taxi over) to an 'iRepair' shop to see if they could look at my camera. I didn't expect much but wanted to leave no stone unturned. However in spite of supposedly opening at 9:30 am the shop was still closed at 9:45 am when I had to return to the port. At least I tried.
Unfortunately the SeaJet was more or less 15 minutes late arriving in Naxos meaning 15 minutes late departing for Ios and consequently 15 minutes late arriving in Ios. This mattered as we had only 20 minutes to make a connection in Ios to the small Maistros Santorini ferry that was to take us to Sikinos. Fortunately the Maistros was docked less then 50 metres from the arriving Seajets. Some anxious moments but we made it with six minutes to spare, fortunately as the Maistros departed at 11:30 am exactly on schedule.
It was an smooth 30 minute ferry to Sikinos where we were met at the port by the car rental fellow and Fotis, owner of Zetine Suites. As our room was not quite ready Fotis treated us (and two Swiss women who had also just arrived) to coffees while he explained the things to see and do on the island.
It was then up to the beautiful Zetine Suites (we are in the Anemos room) where we were met by Happy the housekeeper, who truly seemed to be. We settled into our large unit with a nice terrace, including a plunge pool overlooking both the harbour and up the mountains of Sikinos to Chora.
After a nap (remember we were up at 5:30 am) we headed to the east end of the island and Paralia Agios Georgios where we ate at the taverna - a traditional old school seaside taverna. We first shared a delicious Tzatziki dip with bread. Gayle then had a Greek salad with local soft cheese and a plate of French fries, nicely coated with oregano. Norm had the grilled octopus, which while looking lonely on its plate, was the best octopus he has had on the trip to date. Fresh and perfectly grilled. As Sikinos actually has a winery we decided to have a bottle of the white wine with our meal. It was actually quite good.
We decided it was a bit late for a swim but vowed to return. We drove back through Chora to the east side of the island where the winery is located. A beautiful spot for a glass of wine on a deck admiring the sunset over Folegandros we also vowed to return tomorrow. But we did enjoy the sunset before returning to the port of Alopronia and Zetine Suites where we enjoyed watching the twinkling lights in the port before turning in.
Below - our early morning ferry to Naxos with stops in Iraklia and Schinoussa.
Right - reconciling our expenditures with our cash.
Looking north to Chora in the distance from Zetine Suites.
Although the Manalis Winery restaurant was closed there is a nice terrace area where one can enjoy a glass of wine admiring the sunset.
We will be back tomorrow to do exactly that.
After breakfast we said good-bye to Bill and Linda as they headed to Naxos for four days. We will reconnect afterwards in Folegandros.
We are in a bit of a routine, albeit one we very much enjoy. In the afternoon after breakfast and some work on the travel blogs it was again down to Fanos beach for a swim. In past years when the knees were better we would have gone to Pori beach, or Ano Koufonisi but having been there and with somewhat limited mobility we passed on the further afield beaches and stuck with the beautiful waters of Fanos.
For dinner we were going to return to Locanda & Rosmarino (L&R). But here's the thing - when there is only one taxi on the island and Mohammed was not answering the phone we were somewhat stuck. A bit surprisingly, and fortunately L&R actually delivers meaning we could get a couple of pizzas delivered directly to us here at Pambelos Lodge. Again the Bufalina for Gayle and for Norm the Pancetta pizza with bacon.
In some ways it was nice to have a relaxing informal meal on our terrace.
Another wonderful day.
Another of Georgio's excellent omelettes; more muesli, a bowl of fruit and freshly squeezed lemonade.
Eleni taking Gayle's breakfast order. The Pambelos breakfast area.
Another relaxing day in paradise.
Morning was again a wonderful breakfast served by Eleni with omelettes crafted by Georgio.
The afternoon was spent down at Fanos beach. While walking to / from the beach may not be my most looked forward to aspect of the day I managed ok. The beach / water was, as it always is, wonderful - relaxing and refreshing.
We went into Chora a bit before dinner to wander around. On each of our previous trips there were some elderly woman along the main alleyway. While there were a couple this time sadly those of previous visits were not to be seen. Having been very elderly perhaps they have passed on.
Chora is nice village dominated by the impressive church of St. George with its characteristic polygonal white painted with a blue dome and tall bell tower. As St. George is considered the protector of the island on his feast day one can participate in the procession of his icon, followed by a festival where traditional food and wine is offered freely to all guests, accompanied by dancing to traditional instruments. Back in 2015, our first visit to Koufonisi, we timed our trip around the festival where we enjoyed the festivities.
For dinner we went to Amira Kai Pioto, a restaurant owned and operated by Georgio's brother. Fortunately we arrived early (7:00 ish) as the restaurant was full with customers waiting by the time we left. Choosing from the extensive menu (I recall 39 items) was a challenge. We started with the fried Naxian cheese bites with a crust of nuts and sesame from Daskalia on the west of Keros by its shores. Gayle then had the Klidoura, baked eggplant with tomato sauce, feta, fresh cherry tomatoes and parsley - very much enjoyed but too much, while Norm had grilled octopus with cherry tomato salad. Being a nice meal we upgraded from the house wine, ordering a bottle of Piedi Rossi white, a blend of Assyrtiko / Malagouzia / Moscato grapes.
Thank goodness for Mohammed who taxied us back to Pambelos Lodge.
Chora's St. George church.
Left: Fried Naxian cheese biets with a crust of nuts and sesame.
Below: Baked eggplants with tomato sauce, feta, cherry tomatoes and parsley.
Left: Grilled octopus with tomato salad
Below: Gifts from the house - a honey soaked sweet and a cherry brandy liqueur.
Another pretty much do nothing day that started with another large, tasty and filling breakfast.
Unfortunately soon thereafter I began to not feel that well - could it have been that large, tasty and filling breakfast? I didn't feel like walking to the beach so Gayle went on her own. Without me she headed out further past Fanos beach and then on to and past Italida beach. The beach, the colour of the water, the rock outcrops into the sea, the views across to Keros and beyond to Amorgos - it is all so so special, and why we have been back five times now.
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Given the shortness of today's entry a bit about Koufonisia, a set of two islands: Ano Koufonisi and Kato Koufonisi. Kato Koufonisi is the main island, with hotels, restaurants etc. while Ano is a tiny island with a couple of beaches and one taverna where everything is accessed by foot or bike. Both are part of the Cyclades, or more specifically the Small Cyclades group that includes Donoussa, Schinoussa and Ikareia. All offer spectacular landscapes and beaches with crystal clear turquoise waters.
According to archaeological findings, Koufonisi has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Excavations brought to light evidence that dates back to the first years of the Cycladic civilization (3100 BC to 1000 BC). Further excavations found remains dating to the Hellenistic (323 BC to 30 BC) and Roman times (753 BC to 476 AD).
The island is 26 sq km and while there are no cars to rent there is a taxi (operated this year by Mohammed who we got to know) and water taxis. The population (2021) was 391.
We have seen considerable change in Koufonisi since first visiting in 2015. Way more hotels, bars and people. It is losing some of its charm but somehow the beaches, landscape and the rustic beauty of Pambelos Lodge, let alone Georgio, keeps drawing us back.
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I almost didn't go down for dinner but Gayle convinced me to have something to eat. We walked down to Finikas, a seaside taverna where Gayle had a Greek salad and fries. I opted for the plain spaghetti, although I did add some cheese. The spaghetti was actually quite good. I'm glad Gayle encouraged me to go.
The walk back to Pambelos was somewhat easier - my knees struggle considerably more going downhill as opposed to up.
After returning a short time on our terrace before calling it a night.
Our first full day in Koufonisi started with that special morning view across the channel to Keros island. It never gets old.
We then enjoyed another lengthy and filling breakfast. Breakfast here at Pambelos runs from 9:00 am 'ish' through to noon. There is a wide variety of choice - cakes and pies made by Georgio's mom, freshly squeezed orange or lemon juice, yoghurt with fruit and / or honey, and delicious omelette's made with the personal touch of Georgio himself.
After working on our travel blogs we headed down to the beach. With my struggling knees we expect to frequent the nearest beach most, if not all the time. The fact we believe it is the nicest of the beaches makes the decision easy. As the photos show Fanos beach is gorgeous - calm, warm and turquoise blue near the shore.
For dinner we decided to go to the Italian restaurant in the village - Lavanda & Rosmarino. The 'Trattoria' was born out of a dream to marry the two great loves of Donatella - the mom; Albertina - Donatella's sister; undisputed angel of the family and feeder of the cats; and Silvia - daughter and owner - their love for cooking and their love for the wonderful island of Koufonisi.
While the menu was extensive in the end we each ordered a pizza. For Norm the Salame piccante, capperi, olive with Itlaian spicy salami, tomato, mozzarella, capers and olives. For Gayle the Bufalina loaded with tomato, mozzarella Bufalo, cherry tomato and basil. We splurged and bought a bottle of Chianti Classico DOC Sorelli Toscana to accompany our meal. Before our pizzas we were provide a small bowl of gazpacho along with a light melon liqueur and a selection of breads. We enjoyed a wonderful meal sharing lots of laughs.
In the same way we employed Mohammed to get us to the restaurant (the 2.1 kms is just too far for my knees) we also had him pick us up to return to Pambelos. Afterwards we just sat out on our terrace being so thankful of our opportunity to enjoy Greece and this special spot we discovered.
Left: Good morning Koufonisi.
Below: Our morning visitor.
It's always nice to have a polite friend join us for dinner.
Although the seas were calm for the one hour 10 minute crossing from Donoussa to Koufonisi on the Express Skopelitis the sailing did not match my mood. I was seething, trying to figure out what could have happened to my camera - I didn't drop it, nothing - or what I could do to fix it. I was certainly not a happy camper.
We were met at the port by Georgio, Bill and Linda and driven up to Pambelos Lodge. Although only mid-morning our room was ready allowing us to settle in. We then headed down for the Pambelos breakfast. As in the past the menu is very extensive and one can have as little or as much as one wants. Norm was not shy, enjoying a few cappuchinos, lemonade, yoghurt with fruit and honey, spinach pie, carrot cake, muesli with milk, and a large, made by Georgio himself, omelette of mushrooms, bacon and cheese.
Of course one visits Koufonisi primarily for the beautiful beaches and warm turquoise waters in which to swim. Norm was simply not in the mood to go for a swim this afternoon leaving Gayle to go down to Fanos beach on her own.
For dinner we decided to go to Michalios Grill House, a 1.5 km walk from Pambelos Lodge. I expected it would be a struggle for me (there is a considerable down-hill stretch at the beginning which I find particularly tough) and it was. But I persevered and made it.
Our meal was mixed. We started with tomato balls that we both agreed were not that good. Gayle then had the vegetable pie, comprised of mushrooms, zucchini, peppers, tomato and cheese that she too did not enjoy (although Norm that it was pretty tasty). Norm on the other hand was happy with his feed of a half a kilo of lamb ribs, accompanied by French fries. As said it was a mixed meal.
Having walked down there was no doubt we were going to take the island's only taxi back to Pambelos. We were picked up by Mohammed, who is from Egypt. We would get to know Mohammed quite well over the next few days as we used his service a number of times. The cost was 5 euros, very well worth it.
Back on the terrace of our unit, looking out over Keros island, it is very nice to be back in Koufinisi, now for the fifth time.
To say that I was in a bad mood on the ferry from Donoussa to Koufinisi, and upon arriving would be an understatement.
I tried to think of everything but regardless of what I tried the monitor was dark except for a very thin sliver of light at the top.
This travel blog is very important to us, and will be quite limited without me taking photos. Sure we will get some from Gayle's iPhone but it is not the same.
But there is nothing we can do so we will just have to make the best of it.
We ate at Michalios Grill house, known for its farm to table food.
We started with tomato balls (there were actually six of them) and then Gayle had a vegetable pie with mushrooms, zucchini, pepper, tomato and cheese.
The day started well albeit we were sad to leave O Kipos and Donoussa. But we are headed to Koufonisi, the first Small Cyclades island we visited back in 2015.
After we packed I took a few photos of the garden, including one of Gayle in a hammock. But then 10 minutes later when I took a photo of Gayle and Loni the my camera's monitor was virtually all black, except for a sliver of light across the top. I tried a number of things - of course turning it off and on; checked the settings; changed the lens; checked to see if perhaps the photos was being transferred to the SD card (they were not); researched on-line; did a full re-set and emailed Henry's Camera technical support who theorized it may be a failed sensor but would need the camera to assess. Given how important photos and the travel blog is to our travel experience this sucks big time, like BIG TIME!
While here on Koufonisi Linda generously let me use her camera (also a Nikon) which was really nice. Of course we also have photos from Gayle's phone so we will have something. But still ... I have a back-up battery; a back-up charger; and additional SD cards but not a back-up camera. GGgrrrrrr!
Below: The central garden area.
Right: Gayle enjoying one of the hammocks.
Three of our days on Donoussa were spent with our friends Linda and BIll. Below are a number of nice photos taken by them.
Stavros church. A chandelier inside the church.
A very similar day to yesterday. We scrambled the eggs we had and along with fruit (peaches and plums) and fresh orange juice and for Gayle a cookie thingy had breakfast at our place.
Again a good part of the day, except for the times we went to the beach for a swim, were spent in the garden of O Kipos. While there we met a very nice German lady - Ute, who along with her husband Ode come to Donoussa twice a year, both in the spring and September to stay with Loni for four to five weeks each time. We enjoyed a wonderful chat with Ute.
For dinner we returned to Avli, a restaurant we very much enjoyed the other night. We shared a delicious fava with garlic and sun dried tomatoes before Gayle had the roasted aubergines with fresh tomato, feta cheese and basil and Norm the orzo pasta with shrimp, mussels, feta cheese and basil, again with the delicious buttery Santorini house wine. An excellent last meal on Donoussa.
We will be leaving tomorrow morning, ferrying over to Koufonisi. We very much enjoyed our stay here on Donoussa. The port village of Stavros is nice and compact with easy access to the mini mart and bakery as well as a number of restaurants. The beach is beautiful - sandy with calm warm water (when the wind is out of the north rather than the south when the water can get a bit choppy) and best within a minute walk of O Kipos Guesthouse. Speaking of O Kipos we were extremely happy with our choice. The rooms are cute typical Cycladic rooms with a nice little terrace. The garden is pretty and very shaded. Best of all was Loni, was simply wonderful. We fully expect to be back.
Also staying at O Kipos Guesthouse are Ute and Ode from Germany, They come to Donoussa twice a year, once in the spring and then again in September for four to five weeks. A very friendly and nice couple.
One can never have too many photos of a sandy beach with warm calm waters.
basil.
Today turned out to be an even quieter day than expected.
Around noon we headed up to Skantochoiros, a restaurant / bar Linda and Bill recommended for breakfast. It was great Gayle enjoyed a fresh peach juice to accompany her scrambled eggs with cherry tomatoes and avocado. Norm had a delicious and filling mushroom, bacon and cheese crepe. The view was great; the food was great; and the service was great.
With the water very calm now that the winds were out of the north we enjoyed a couple of relaxing swims during the afternoon.
As neither of us felt particularly hungry we decided not to go out to eat.
As we said a quiet pretty much do nothing day.
Another night; another festival; another party. Only this one was at the beach end of the dock and therefore closer to us ... and therefore louder. We woke a number of times during the night but it was not until just before 7:00 am I decided to head down to see what was (still) happening. In spite of having gone throughout the night the musicians (we assume they were the same ones) were still playing; many were still dancing and others were still drinking. While there were copious bottles of just about everything on the tables I will say no one appeared inebriated.
I found the music lively with the musicians and audience, many of whom were dancing away much engaged. All appeared to be enjoying a fun, happy time. One musician was playing an Oud, a Middle Eastern short-neck lute-type, pear-shaped, fretless stringed instrument. After a half hour or so I decided to return to see if Gayle wanted to come down for a while. She was very glad she did. You will see in a video (below) she was groovin' to the music practicing her Greek dance steps but sadly did not feel confident enough to join in. A shame as she would have done just fine.
It's hard to believe the party started at 11:25 pm and went on to 8:05 am, but that it did. Who knows how many were there in the wee hours of the morning but there were still lots of activity when we were there towards the end.
On the way back I picked up a ham and cheese pie, a potato pie and a chocolate roll. But soon after eating our baked goods, having been up early to catch the tail end of the goings on of course most of the rest of the morning was spent napping.
The winds had changed (now out of the north rather than the south) such that Stavros beach was extremely calm, making it very conducive to swimming. Which is what we did in the afternoon.
For dinner, along with Linda and Bill, we went to Iliovasilema, a restaurant at the east end of the beach, perched on a hill with a great view of the setting sun. Loni booked us a nice table with a great view. Unfortunately they did not have any tomato balls so we skipped an appetizer. Gayle had two rice stuffed tomatoes she found delicious. Norm had the grilled octopus - good but a tad tough. Rather than house wine we enjoyed a bottle of Greek Chardonnay ... quite nice.
A short walk back down the hill and across the beach and we were back at O Kipos where we turned in for the night.
It's all about the footwork. Video of Gayle practicing Greek dance. Gayle's footwork.
Unfortunately there were no tomato balls tonight (we would have ordered a plate if there were) so Gayle went with the rice stuffed tomatoes and Norm the grilled octopus with a potato like side (fava?).
We splurged and accompanied our meal with a bottle of Greek Chardonnay rather than the house wine. Quite nice but not as good as the Santorini wine we had the other night.
Below: Norm's grilled octopus.
With the music playing throughout the night we didn't get up until 9:00 am after which we spent a quiet morning on our terrace.
Donoussa is an island in the Small Cyclades about 10 miles north of Amorgos and east of Naxos. The island is 13.65 kilometers square and nearly 5.5 kilometers across. Based on the 2021 census the population is 213 (110 or so of whom are apparently permanent residents) the vast majority living in the main port town of Stavros. Donoussa is quite mountainous, dominated by steep cliffs that plunge into the crystal clear blue waters of the Aegean creating some dramatic scenery.
According to ancient Greek mythology the island took its name from the god Dionysus, who lived on this island. Theseus and Ariadne stopped at Donoussa, which was then called 'Zeus' when returning from Crete. Dionysus saw Ariadne and fell in love instantly. That is why the goddess Athena ordered Theseus to obey Dionysus and leave Ariadne on the island. So the fate of Ariadne was to become the inseparable wife of Dionysus.
There are at least three other beaches on Donoussa (plus a few less accessible smaller ones) in addition to the large beach in Stavros (the port). There is a small 28 seater (plus standing) hourly bus that serves Kedros, then Mersini, and finally Kalotaritssa. Most go all the way to Kalotaritssa, and once we got there we understood why. Unlike Kedros and Mersini that required significant walks from the bus stop it was easy access to Kalotaritssa beach. Plus there is a rock face that provides nice afternoon shade. Linda and Bill, who arrived a couple of hours before us (we took the 1:00 pm bus) laid claim to a completely shady spot under the rocks. The beach is sandy and the water both warm and turquoise.
We spent time in the water and relaxing on the beach before going up to the nearby taverna for lunch / dinner. Perhaps because it was festival weekend the taverna was particularly busy and the staff appeared to be run off their feet. Service was terribly slow and really not very friendly or good. Plus they got the salads mixed up and consequently the bills. The saving grace was that the views and the food were pretty decent. Norm enjoyed his saganaki and two large beef burgers and Gayle her Greek salad and fries. After eating we went back to the beach for another swim, and then caught the 6:30 pm bus back to Stavros.
From the bus stop we meandered over to Pahivouni Suites where Linda and Bill are staying. After climbing the 85 steps we were warmly greeted with a beer (for Norm) and glass of wine (for Gayle). We sat and chatted while watching the setting sun and subsequent colours of the sky.
Having had a large late afternoon meal there was no need for dinner. We wandered over to where tonight's music was set up but at 10:00 pm there was again nothing happening. Perhaps in our younger days we would have waited it out but not now. We returned to O Kipos and turned in ... that is until the music started at 11:25 pm. Being closer on the dock the singing was even louder than last night and therefore not conducive for a good sleep.
sun.
only way to see any of the other parts of the island (unless one wanted to rent a motorcycle, which we did not).
Donoussa (O Kipos Guesthouse)
We were up very early for our scheduled 6:55 am ferry. The past few days the ferry was quite late but unfortunately one can't plan on it being so again. So up at 5:30 am; on the road by 6:15 am; to the port to drop off Gayle and our luggage by 6:20 am; return the car to FM Rent a Car by 6:25 am; to the bakery for a couple of cheese pies and a coffee for Gayle - out at 6:35 am; over to meet Gayle at 6:40 am - in plenty of time.
6:55 am came - no ferry and none in sight; 7:15 am came and went - no ferry; then 7:30 am; then 7:45 am; then 8:00 am. Still nothing. But finally about 8:15 am the Blue Star Paros appeared on the horizon. We finally left the port around 8:30 am - over an hour and a half late, and arrived in Donoussa about 45 minutes later.
We had a huge greeting party - our friends Bill and Linda who had arrived on Donoussa two days ago and Loni our host from O Kipos Guesthouse. Loni advised us our room would be ready some time after 10:00 am so we sat down for breakfast at Evalia, the recommended breakfast spot of Bill and Linda. Meanwhile Loni took one of our bags and said she would be back when our room was ready. True to her word Loni was back at 10:10 am.
After breakfast we headed over to O Kipos where we checked in and Loni gave us the lay of the land. The rooms in the garden (kipos means garden) are very cute. Not 5 star but very functional with a wonderful terrace and great value. The only down side is that there is no view of the sea although one can hear the waves and it is only one minute to the very nice beach.
Having been up since 5:30 am and given the festival (our reason for choosing Donoussa at this time is their annual festival) is not scheduled to start until well into the evening it should be no surprise the afternoon included a long nap.
Around 7:00 pm we heard bells and chanting from the nearby church so headed up that way. There were many people in and around the church. We sat on a wall and took a number of photos. After a while Linda and Bill arrived. While it got more and more crowded we had no idea what was going on - it was all Greek to us - and eventually left to get something to eat.
We ended up at Avli, a nice fish focused restaurant. Gayle had a plate of four large chick pea croquettes with . tomato paste, herbs and yoghurt while Norm had a plate of calamari with smoked paprika and aioli sauce. The 'house' wine was an excellent Argyros / Assyritko from Santorini - more expensive than other 'house' wine but much much better. Not a huge meal but very good.
Then it was down to the dock where the table were set up and seats on the hill were full. It was nearly 11:00 pm before any activity started when a few men began to dance to the music that had just begun. A few more joined in but we were quite far away and where we were still quite tired decided to bail. Bill and Linda stayed a bit longer, moving up closer to the musicians and dancers. As we were led to believe the music continued through the night. Even with the windows closed and the air conditioning on we could clearly hear the music. In the early hours of the morning we thought of getting up and heading down but just didn't have it in us. Perhaps tomorrow night / morning when there is apparently more music and dancing. The music finally ended around 6:30 am.
A good day with a very positive first impression of Donoussa.
We chose O Kipos (The Garden) Guesthouse for our stay here in Donoussa.
Seven very cute units here in the garden (there are another three more modern units five minutes up the hill with views of the sea) with a very nice terrace and a small but functional kitchenette.
We were met at the port by Loni who, while we were having breakfast, had our room prepared for us to drop by shortly after 10:00 am.
For dinner we ended up at Avli, apparently one of the better, if not the best in town. The Santorini 'house' wine was particularly good, and in our view worth the somewhat higher cost. Here Gayle and Linda are enjoying the wine.
Our last full day in Amorgos was again quiet. We awoke to another beautiful day gazing out at the deep blue sea.
Yoghurt with fruit, walnuts and honey, along with a piece of baklava, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice was on the menu for breakfast.
Then there was our visit from Alex where we again provided him a healthy breakfast - a huge apple.
Afterwards we went down to pay Theo and say our goodbyes as we are leaving tomorrow on the 6:55 am ferry, meaning an early alarm.
Of course we had to have our swim in the waters adjacent to Aegiali beach. So easy to access, so sandy and so warm - it can't get much better.
Rather than stay at Pano Gitonia for sunset we decided to drive up to Lagada to stroll through the village in the light, knowing we were not likely to see the sunset. Lagada is a very cute village with a maze of winding painted alleyways with brightly coloured doors and windows, and a number of excellent restaurants.
For dinner we went to the other small restaurant we ate at in 2022 - Loukaki Ksana that serves Cretan meals. We started with Tirokafieri, a dip of spicy peppers and feta cheese - and spicy it was - accompanied by some nice toasted homemade bread. Then the standard Amorgian salad although with a different style of olive. Norm had two extremely delicious (and large) sheep burgers with pita bread and a yoghurt with tomato jam. To round out the meal we ordered a plate of fried potato slices. After dinner Norm could not resist Gayle's suggestion of cherry ice cream. An excellent meal of tasty food we were very happy with our choice.
Back to Pano Gitonia where we finished packing in order to be ready for our early departure tomorrow morning.
.
It is absolutely wonderful swimming in Aegiali Bay. Beautifully clear, colourful warm water with awesome views.
An exhausting day as we drove to the far (south-west) end of the island. But not before going down to the port and ferry office to get our tickets for Friday's early morning (scheduled 6:55 am departure) ferry to Donoussa.
We then headed across the island, again passing many many goats on our way. In fact we really don't understand why they don't call the island Amorgoats. At one point we encountered a fellow who had just dropped off some food for his 200, or so he said, free roaming goats.
The 37 km drive is one of the most spectacular we have taken. The sea is on one side or the other virtually the entire trip, with a number of dramatic elevation changes. A number of the side roads will take one to one of the island's beaches - Mouros, Agia Anna, Agii Saranta, Lefkes and Ammoundi. Finally, after passing the shipwreck the island is known for we arrived at Kalotaritissa Beach, a stunning beach in terms of water colour and gentle slope entering, dotted with a number of sailboats. We found one spindly tree that provided just a bit of shade for the post swim nap. We skipped driving all the way to this beach in 2022 but were very happy to return this year.
On the way back we took the 3 km side road to Mouros beach and taverna. Unfortunately the taverna was 'temporarily closed' - the owner retired so we understood - but the Cafe Snack Bar did have some food, and of course drinks. We split a tasty Amorgian salad while Norm had a small Mythos and Gayle a very good Margarita. Mouros has become a 'go to' spot each trip, and we were very happy to have done so again. The views of the sea to Santorini and Anafi are really quite something.
Many more photo opportunities, including a large flock of sheep just meandering down the road, had us racing home for sunset. We made it just in time and thankful we did as we again were treated to a colourful display.
arrival of the morning ferry.
And finally a video of the goats just off the side of the road.
Inland the landscape is barren - nothing but rock. Chora, the actual capital of Amorgos.
Nearby is a shipwreck. It was February of 1980 when the commercial ship Olympia reached the coast of Amorgos where it was blown on to the rocks due to the strong winds.
The captain, trying to find shelter, unsuccessfully threw an anchor as the ship struck the rocks. Apparently the ship's crew consisted of contemporary pirates heading from Cyprus to Greece.
Nearby Kalotaritissa beach and the shipwreck have been used for various travel shows and documentaries, including the movie Le Grand Blue.
Amorgos is known for its goats but as can be seen here sheep also inhabit the island. We just left Katapola on our way back to Aegiali when we encountered these sheep just meandering down the road.
The goats and sheep are the most significant road hazards, along with keeping ones eye on the road given the scenery here on Amorgos as traffic itself is very light.
Yet another relaxing, mostly do nothing day. The morning and much of the afternoon was spent enjoying our Panoramic room, view and terrace. We started the day - ok perhaps it was close to noon - with a delicious Greek yoghurt topped with fresh peaches, walnuts and honey. Excellent! The yoghurt was accompanied by a traditional Greek cheese / feta pie and glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice.
During the afternoon we had a number of visitors - a couple of cats and Bill and Linda who dropped by to join Norm for a drink (Norm - retsina; Gayle - water; Bill and Linda - beer).
Although the day again got away from us we did make it down to Aegiali to have a burnt-out head lamp replaced on our vehicle,. While Yannis was off having the repair done he put us in charge of his office. How much business could there be you might ask? More than you would think. In only 20 minutes there were two customers who arrived for their cars and three phone calls - which we did not answer given we fully expected them to be in Greek.
The water seemed a bit cooler today but still the beach was busy and the swim very nice.
We returned to Pano Gitonia to enjoy a spectacular sunset before heading down to the family restaurant - To Katina. We shared a Saganaki while Gayle had an Amorgian salad and Norm the Village Sausage. After dinner we saw and chatted with Theo, Pookie and their daughter Katerina. Katerina, now 16 is starting high school in Chora tomorrow. We later found out there are only eight in her class - six boys and only two girls, including Katerina.
We returned to PG where we had a night cap, and then turned in.
To the right Theo, Pookie and their daughter Katerina.
Below our after dinner 'gifts' of watermelon and raki.
Being our first day of four (five nights) here on Amorgos we spent most of it 'chilled out' here at Pano Gitonia (PG). Our first choice of room - Panorama was not available our first night so we booked Almond Tree, where we had stayed previously (and also very much liked). In the morning we moved from Almond Tree to Panorama, a unit one level up on the corner with ... wait for it ... a panoramic view out to the sea and the other side of the bay.
After lunch we went down into Aegiali, a fishing and tourism town on the north-eastern end of the island with a permanent population of 430. The town is popular with tourists for its facilities and long beach. Archaeological excavations have provided evidence the area has been inhabited since ancient times. We swapped out our car after which we picked up a number of pies and 'goodies' from the bakery and returned to PG where we made ourselves yoghurt with fresh peaches, along with the spinach and mushroom pies. We have tried to think of whether there is anything better than sitting here on our terrace of Pano Gitonia, eating breakfast / lunch looking out from our elevated position to the sea. We struggle to think of any.
Later in the afternoon we went down to the beach for a swim. For a port town the water was warm and very clear / clean - the beach 100% sand (no rocks). Access to the beach is easy with parking nearby.
Linda and Bill picked the restaurant tonight. They were in Lagada during the day where they found Niko's Taverna that 1. did not require an enormous number of steps to get to, and 2. had retsina. It is quite clear retsina, a Greek white resinated wine that has been made for at least 2,000 years is quite out of favour these days. It's unique flavour is said to have originated from the practice of sealing wine vessels with Aleppo pine resin in ancient times. Before the invention of impermeable glass bottles oxygen caused many wines to spoil within the year. Pine resin helped keep air out, while infusing the wine with the aroma of the resin. These days not many like retsina, but those of us who do like it a lot.
Dinner was again really good. The taverna had a great ambiance and the food both good and in huge portions. Gayle had Niko's eggplant - eggplant, feta cheese, tomato and onion cooked in the oven with spices. Perhaps not the most visually appealing but quite tasty. As well Gayle had a plate of Greek fries, hand cut with oregano, that of course were shared. Norm ordered the moussaka. A large serving that looked wonderful but unfortunately was not matched in taste / flavour. Of course Norm had retsina and Gayle some house white wine. Bill and Linda were very pleased with their choices of a cheese plate, a humungous Greek salad and souvlaki. Another very nice meal at a very nice taverna.
Sunset over Amorgos.
Left - all four of us at Niko's Taverna.
Below - wine served in 'copper' (actually tin) mugs - white wine for Gayle in the blue and retsina for Norm in the orange.
Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Our last morning at Hotel Petres and the island of Paros. Another delicious breakfast including a wonderful orange pie. We packed, said our goodbyes and headed off to the port. We picked up Stavros from our car rental company's office from where we all drove to the port. It was very crowded with a number of ferries arriving before the Blue Star Naxos on which we were booked, which was 40 minutes late departing.
We splurged by buying Business Class (BC) tickets, an additional 12.5 euros ($25 Cdn) each on top of the 30.5 euro fee. We understood BC would be quieter with fewer people and couches on which we could nap during our four plus hour trip that took us to Naxos, Iraklia, Schinoussa, Koufonisi and finally Amorgos, our destination. In spite of the forecast of a windy day it was smooth sailing. But instead of arriving at the scheduled 3:10 pm we didn't dock until 4:20 pm.
Then the car rental. We were provided a pretty beat up, dated vehicle. Having rented from FM Auto Rental now five times we decided to express our dissatisfaction to the owner here in Aegiali. Yannis was very understanding and without issue provided us an 'A+' vehicle to replace the 'A' vehicle we had rented. We are now happy and reminded of why we so much enjoy the Greeks and their reasonable approach to issues.
Although we have driven from Katopola to / from Aegiali many times it never gets old. The drive is spectacular, along the coast with the deep blue sea on one side and the barren, except for the goats, hills on the other. As is our practice we do count the goats - it was a light day today with only 18.
As you may recall from the first post our friends Linda and Bill Collins are also here in Greece. Our respective itineraries have us crossing paths on four islands, including here on Amorgos. In this case we are both staying at Pano Gitonia, one our favourite lodgings of all time. The rooms are very traditional and attractively decorated, each with a small kitchenette and a beautiful terrace, reasonably priced with awesome views of the surrounding countryside and the rich blue sea.
After checking in we went down to the town of Aegiali to deal with the car rental and pick up some groceries - coffee, milk, yoghurt, apples (for Alex, the resident donkey), a peach, honey, nuts and oranges for fresh orange juice.
It was then off to Lagada (or is it Lagkada or is it Langada) for dinner at Moschoudaki, a restaurant we ate at two years ago that we very much enjoyed. Although there were no available tables when we arrived the staff immediately brought out a table and chairs from inside for us. We again not only enjoyed a wonderful meal but a great time interacting with Theofillos, our 19 year old server, and his mother Popi (from Karpathos). Originally opened in 2019 just before Covid Popi and family have somehow made a go of it. We bantered with Theo and chatted about Karpathos with Popi, and their upcoming trip to Thailand. Even better than the excellent food (Saganaki, French Fries, Chickpeas in the oven and Goat in the oven) the personal interactions with Theo and Popi made the experience. The only downside was the unavailability of retsina (how can a restaurant in Greece not have retsina?) and orange pie. It was after 11:00 pm when we finally left, closing the place.
Right - a video of today's selections at breakfast here at Hotel Petres.
Below - fresh - we know as Norm squeezed it himself - orange juice along with orange pie.
Below right - tomatoes in olive oil and oregano, cucumber and olives.
What's a Greek restaurant without a cat?
Half the menu.
Another day spent virtually all at Hotel Petres. We again did not get down to breakfast until
10:00 ish, lingering until almost 11:30 am.
As promised, there was a new selection of dishes to add to the
standards, including a lemon cake, a tomato / feta cheese / egg concoction,
pastry ‘stars’ with cheese and cinnamon, and watermelon with seeds! Three glasses (for Norm) of personally squeezed orange
juice and two large cups of coffee rounded out breakfast.
Some time working on our travel blogs and emails followed by the obligatory afternoon nap after which it was some time in the pool. For some reason the pool area is quite busy in the morning, immediately after breakfast but then significantly less so during the afternoon. Gayle enjoyed a nice chat with a German lady who went back many (like 40 or so) years knowing Clea and Sotiris, having coached their daughter Maria figure skating.
Late afternoon we did decide to go out, not far but to a nearby sandy beach - Monastiri Beach. It was particularly easy to park adjacent to the beach with very easy access. The water was warm and clear, allowing us to see a number of fish swimming amongst our feet. Afterwards we drove through the nearby town of Naoussa, but with parking a challenge and wanting to chill out at Petres we didn’t stop.
Again we don’t understand why virtually no-one else has dinner here albeit there were a number of guests who did have lunch. We were again alone for dinner. Today’s dish of the day was perfect for Gayle – Yemista, or stuffed tomato with a few roasted potatoes. Norm was only going to have the tomato salad – a bowl of tomatoes and olives in olive oil and fresh oregano but when Eva offered a Paros sausage he couldn’t resist. Served with lemon and mustard it was delicious. We chatted with Eva, originally from Poland but having lived over half her life here on Paros about this and that. Hearing some music Eva mentioned there were two weddings on the island this Saturday, one in a hotel just below Hotel Petres. We wondered if the couple we met on the plane who were attending a wedding today might be there.
After dinner we sat out on our balcony reminding ourselves of how fortunate we are to be enjoying such another relaxing experience here in Greece and how happy we were with our decision to spend a number of days here at Hotel Petres.
about, along with 'my Greek goddess'.
Today we lived up to our reputation as 'sloths on vacation'. We slept in; enjoyed a delicious leisurely breakfast; returned to our room for a nap; then down for a swim (and afterwards another nap by the pool); work on the travel blog and emails (it seems every time I leave there are requests for crosswalk flags - two yesterday); and then dinner. Not a cloud in the sky and a temperature of 30 C. This is perfect after preparing for the trip and a night trying to sleep in a cramped airplane seat.
Breakfast here at Hotel Petres is one of the best we enjoy anywhere on our travels. Not only freshly squeezed but personally squeezed orange juice. The oranges are provided with the guest squeezing as much as they want. For those of us that love fresh orange juice that turned out to be three glasses. There are a number of fresh baked on the premises cakes and phyllo dishes - feta cheese; spinach etc.; tomatoes and cucumbers in olive oil and oregano; meats and cheese; yoghurt; boiled eggs; cereal; bread; home-made jams; cookies; and of course lots of coffee.
Dinner was again simple but very good. Tonight's dish of the day was Keftedes, i.e. meatballs served with Tzatziki. Gayle had the eggplant (melitzana) salad - grilled eggplant covered with tomatoes and feta cheese in oil. She could not have been happier. Apparently a number of guests have lunch here but we were the only ones for dinner (there was one other couple last night). It is hard for us to understand why more don't eat here. While it is true there is not any choice for a main dish - there is only the dish of the day - but there are perhaps a dozen salads and dips, each that we have had being delicious.
Back to our room for some time on our balcony just looking out over the field in front of our hotel out to the sea. This is heaven.
Right: Eggplant salad (the grilled eggplant is hidden beneath all the tomatoes)
Below: A portion of the dining / breakfast area.
Quite the couple of days but in spite of some anxious moments we arrived in Paros as planned to enjoy the sunshine and heat (30 C) and reunite with Clea, Sotiris and Eva at Hotel Petres.
But let's back up. We had a late morning flight from Halifax to Montreal - on time departing and arriving - a good start. Then it was supposed to be five + hours in the Montreal Air Canada Maple Leaf lounge with our friends Linda and Bill Collins (no relation) who are also spending the month of September in Greece. The good news is that it turned out to be nearly seven hours. The obvious bad news is that our flight to Athens was delayed - an hour and a half. We planned our onward flight to Paros three hours after scheduled arrival. But our plane touched the tarmac only one hour and seven minutes before our next flight, arriving at the terminal with only 53 minutes to spare. We were convinced we were not going to make it. Everything, and we mean everything had to go just perfect.
Fortunately we were seated near the front of the plan (Row 19) which had us off quite quickly. Next we needed Immigration to have short queues. Being late the other overseas flights had already landed - as a result the queue was virtually empty with us sailing through. Next to pick up our luggage. In spite of having priority baggage tags our last trip to France our luggage actually didn't arrive - still back in Montreal (it was delivered late the next day). We were nervous but hopeful. A number of other priority bags came out on the belt - getting less hopeful but voila we saw ours. It was now 12:22 pm. Next we had to get out of the arrivals area and up to the next level - departures and find the Aegean check-in counters. Fortunately I knew where they were from previous trips meaning some time saved. Still now 12:31 pm. I explained our situation to the first agent we saw who immediately directed us to the Business Class check in where an agent who took us right away. While checking in she said we would make it but still we should hurry. We crossed our fingers our luggage would also make it but if not there were other flights later in the afternoon that it should be delivered on. Then it was off to security where I explained to an agent our situation, and asked whether we could use the Fastlane. He checked our boarding pass and waved us through. 12:43 pm. It was a bit of a walk to our gate with us arriving at 12:51 pm. What a relief to see others still in the boarding line - in fact there were four passengers who arrived after us! We checked in and got on the bus that drove us to our plane. What a sigh of relief.
The 25 minute flight to the island of Paros landed on time. And to top it off our luggage arrived as well. Tons of anxiety and in the end needlessly considering other options should we not make the connection. There were four later flights but the website indicated no seats available for any of them. There is another small Greek airline - SkyExpress - that might have been a possibility, or a flight to nearby Naxos with a dinner time ferry, or stay in Piraeus and take an early (6:45 am) ferry the next morning. All were not very attractive options. And fortunately none of them were needed.
The car we rented was waiting for us at the airport. In fact we drove Stavros back into the port town to their office before continuing on towards Noussa and Hotel Petres, our lodging for the first three nights. We have stayed at Petres twice before - back in 2015, the first time we visited Paros and then again in 2022. The owners Clea and Sotiris are wonderful, as is Eva, the server. It is so nice to return to a place and people who remember us well from previous visits. Petres is a cute 16 unit hotel in the countryside, with a beautiful large pool and a scenic view of the surrounding country and the sea. While the hotel does not have a full restaurant they do serve many traditional Greek appetizers and a 'dish of the day', although tonight they had two. Perfect for us.
After reuniting and a lengthy chat with Clea over welcoming drinks and cookies it was back to our room for a much needed nap. Three hours later (7:00 pm ish) we awoke and went down to dinner. We started (well in Greece you generally don't start - everything comes at once) with a Greek brusketta of dried wheat bread (a Cretan rusk) smothered with tomatoes, capers and feta cheese dressed with olive oil and oregano - delicious. Norm then had chicken in lemon sauce with rice while Gayle the baked broad beans in tomato sauce.
Only 9:00 pm and in-spite of the afternoon nap it was time for bed.
So so wonderful to be back in Greece and here at Hotel Petres.
A villa adjacent to olive groves near the Paros airport.
Welcoming cookies and retsina.
We left Halifax on schedule at 11:30 am for a short flight to Montreal where we had nearly six hours in the lounge (where we are at the moment). Montreal's international lounge is quite impressive, certainly far better than its equivalent in Toronto.
However we began to receive notices of a delay in our flight - first for half an hour and now 1 hour 35 minutes. We'll see. Regardless, even with the current delay, this may very well result in issues with our connection in Athens to our flight to Paros. At the moment it appears we will have less than an hour to make the connection which is highly unlikely given we have to clear immigration, collect our luggage, go through security and reach our gate. The good news is that there are four later flights to Paros. The really bad news is they all appear to be full.
Tomorrow may be a challenging day!
But when we do get to Paros the weather appears to be perfect.
After being in the Ionian islands last year we are returning to our old stomping grounds, the Cyclades. A number (five) of islands we have been to before and a few (three) new ones.
After arriving in Greece we will then fly from Athens to the island of Paros where we will stay at Hotel Petres, a great small boutique hotel where we have stayed twice before, perfect for relaxing and overcoming the jet lag.
After three nights in Paros we will ferry to Amorgos, perhaps my favourite Greek island for five nights, again staying at Pano Gitonia, a very traditional lodging full of colour and spectacular views over the sea. Here we will meet up with friends who will also be in Greece during the same time as us.
Next is the small island of Donoussa, a new island for us. Five nights is no doubt longer than we would normally stay on such a small island but there are a couple of festivals on the island while we are there - one the day we arrive and then a smaller one our last night. We will be staying at O Kipos a small hotel only minutes from the beach.
From Donoussa it is on to Gayle's favourite Greek island (and my second), being Koufonisia. Another small island of only 26 sq. kms there are no car rental (although there has been a taxi our last couple of visits). This is an island for walking. This will be our 5th visit / stay at Pambelos Lodge set on a hill with stunning views of the sea and the uninhabited island of Keros.
From Koufonisia we sail west via Naxos and Ios to Sikinos, another island we have not yet visited. Also relatively small we found Zetine Suites - a small - only four units each with their own plunge pool B&B.
Then we return to two islands we visited in 2010 - Folegandros and Sifnos. It appears both have embraced tourism with some development over the past decade plus. We are outside of the Chora (main village on the island of Folegandros at a small five room lodging Provalma with views across the cliffs to the sea.
Then we will return to Niriedes Hotel on an island we really liked - with a nearby very authentic restaurant right on the beach looking out to a Monastery where we enjoyed a couple of great meals years ago. The island has a number of long sandy beaches that we very much look forward to.
Our final island of the Greece portion of the trip is Santorini, an island Gayle visited in her youth (before we met) but I have never been. No doubt the most popular island in Greece with its stunning sunsets its downside is the crowds. It is apparently overrun with tourists. But needing a place from which to fly back to Athens we decided to stay only two nights at Onyx. Hopefully now in October at least some of the crowds will have left.
However before returning home we are once again going to Istanbul for a few nights, staying at Dersaadet Hotel near the centre of the city and everything it has to offer. We are particularly looking forward to a few great Turkish meals.